I take that to mean the Nichia version is as well as, and not instead of, the SST-20 version, and does not impact the production of the SST-20 version.
Yeah, it’s usually easy enough to figure out the revision based on the light’s behavior. A useful version string would end up being very long and difficult to read.
Then you’re in good company. Most of us are idiots around here. At least, I know I’ve done some pretty dumb things…
Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7x7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.
I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.
Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.
The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.
I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. It’s more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. It’s kind of a subjective number, so don’t pay too much attention to it.
The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you don’t care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.
By the way, I haven’t seen anyone mention the LG “chocolate” (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine. edit official specs say this could be as tall as 65.2mm. May fit? edit
The chemistry is INR, which is also good.
I think that’s the next cell I’m going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.
You’re most likely safe, even with the lower-drain NCR18650B. FET drivers tend to adjust current down with low-drain batteries, because the voltage-sag reduces voltage and thus drops current. Boost drivers ignore that, and just suck as much current as they need.
But I don’t think you should ignore the continuous discharge rating of batteries. It’s there to make sure things stay safe. Low-drain cells will heat up much more at high discharge than high-drain cells. You don’t want the battery to get too hot. They’re usually rated for somewhere around 70-80C.
Yes, you can probably run a battery even hotter than that, but the risk increases. It’s better to pick a cell to match the current demands of the light.
In this case, the Samsung 35E should be fine. The Panasonic NCR18650B (or even lower drain cells) may still be okay, but likely because the light just can’t run in turbo very long.
It’s a good cell. Not as popular nowadays as LG Chem doesn’t like how vapers are using their cells. They even have a safety warning about it on their website. Although Samsung SDI also has such a page on their website but I think they might not actually care as I’ve seen more Samsung cells than LG’s.
Also the HG2 is not an INR cell. It’s just a name and actually nowadays there’s hardly such a thing as a Nickel (INR) or a Cobalt (ICR, LCO) or a Manganese (IMR, LMR etc) cell. “Hybrid” chemistries are the most common now and have been for a while now.
With the HG2 actually being LiNiMnCo or if you want a three letter acronym: NMC. The 30Q is also NMC.
While the 35E and MJ1 are LiNiCoAl or NCA.
As far as which 3400-3500mAh cell you should pick. Eh, it’s a bit of a wash. 35E and MJ1 are good choices. As well as Panasonic GA. Buy whatever is cheaper.