I think if there are no other objects in your pocket , you will not get accidental activations. At least that has been my experience so far. You could stack the washers for added protection but it might not look as nice. With one , it looks like it came that way.
Lens comparison from first batch FW3A vs No Lens (optic in place) vs UCL Lens. This is a modded 219B on the 2nd stepped level.
Stock AR Lens:
1260lux (239.4lm)Yxy: 337.437599 0.364519 0.362489
CCT = 4372K (Duv –0.0018)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 84.5 ]
R1 = 93.8 R2 = 92.4 R3 = 88.7 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.6 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.5 R10 = 80.7 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 71.8 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8No Lens:
1280lux (243.2lm)Yxy: 291.757632 0.362148 0.358032
CCT = 4422K (Duv –0.0032)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 88.3 ]
R1 = 94.9 R2 = 92.9 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 93.6 R6 = 88.1 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.6 R9 = 88.3 R10 = 81.7 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.9 R14 = 93.6UCL Lens:
1290lux (245.1lm)Yxy: 324.812067 0.363629 0.359307
CCT = 4381K (Duv –0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 87.9 ]
R1 = 94.7 R2 = 92.8 R3 = 88.5 R4 = 92.1 R5 = 93.4 R6 = 88.0 R7 = 93.1
R8 = 94.5 R9 = 87.9 R10 = 81.6 R11 = 92.4 R12 = 72.8 R13 = 93.8 R14 = 93.6
Kaidomain Lens (22.7mm x 2.0mm):
1290lux (245.1lm)
Yxy: 252.814646 0.368024 0.364769
CCT = 4277K (Duv –0.0019)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.9 [ R9 = 84.7 ]
R1 = 93.9 R2 = 92.5 R3 = 88.8 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.7 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.7 R10 = 80.9 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 72.3 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8
Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?
Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?
There might be a slight difference the meter was set to auto and it showed 129x10 but since I took the measurement that way originally I did the same this time.
That’s interesting result.
azhu: Nite Shadow:Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?
I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.
Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.
I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.
Nite Shadow: azhu: Nite Shadow:Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?
I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.
Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.
I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.
PM sent.
Somewhere in China:
The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!
Batman would be proud :laughing:
tatasal:Somewhere in China:
The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!
Oh no, I didn’t do it, some Chinese flashaholic did!
Batman would be proud
I was thinking about making a Batman comment, and wish I would have!
FW3A mods on a budget:
GITD: trimmed tape band along inside wall just below Carclo optic, and band along groove in tail cap
Optic: 10507 (in addition to others , beams)
Grip: trimmed bicycle inner tube, reversed. Also, o-ring attached, aligned to base of tail cap.
Still have a plan to install trits, but waiting to see how the tail cap aftermarket offerings pan out. I’m completely satisfied with the XP-L 3D emitters and feel no need to change. I was tempted to attach a metal washer to the tail cap as done by another member here to help minimize accidental activation, but, I’m finding the slight twist of the head to be very effective and not really a bother. The grip enhancements are excellent. The inner tube has completely stabilized the grip, no slippage. And the o-ring adds a little extra tactile grip when picking up. It extends about 1mm beyond the tail cap radius — just enough to be useful without being obtrusive.
/\ — photo edit caused tint skew in last image — actual tint is neutral not cool
FW3A mods on a budget: !{width:90%}FW3 A minor mods — Postimages! GITD: trimmed tape band along inside wall just below Carclo optic, and band along groove in tail cap Optic: 10507 Grip: trimmed bicycle inner tube, reversed. Also, o-ring attached, aligned to base of tail cap. Still have a plan to install trits, but waiting to see how the tail cap aftermarket offerings pan out. I’m completely satisfied with the XP-L 3D emitters and feel no need to change. I was tempted to attach a metal washer to the tail cap as done by another member here to help minimize accidental activation, but, I’m finding the slight twist of the head to be very effective and not really a bother.
Nicely done! :D
Where to find that GITD tape please?
:BEER:
- SAM -
Nicely done! :D
Where to find that GITD tape please?
:BEER:
- SAM -
Hi Sam, it's standard GITD tape available from many places. I happened to pick Captank waterproof tape. Then just trimmed to fit. I read up quite a bit about phosphor used in this kind of tape and it really doesn't wear out -- you can recharge nearly endlessly. The adhesive will wear out first, if anything. The tape inside the head is well protected so it should last the life of the light.
SamHaLeKe:Nicely done!
Where to find that GITD tape please?
- SAM -
Hi Sam, it’s standard GITD tape available from many places. I happened to pick Captank waterproof tape. Then just trimmed to fit. I read up quite a bit about phosphor used in this kind of tape and it really doesn’t wear out — you can recharge nearly endlessly. The adhesive will wear out first, if anything. The tape inside the head is well protected so it should last the life of the light.
should be good for a least half hour then
should be good for a least half hour then
:D
Ugh, I take it you're one of the folks who got a dud? :TIRED:
nice photos
Im a recent convert to Green glow tape. I use it on the tail of my lights.
I dont even pre-charge it, and I can see the marker on my lights in the middle of the night when I wake for a bathroom.
The only charging the glow markers on my lights get, is ambient light from sitting on a table indoors. It glows 24/7 and is easily bright enough, in green, to see with dark adapted eyes. No charging required.
pics taken during the day
left is glow powder, middle is a glow tape, right is another brand of glow tape (I dont know which is what, they all work)
Nev:should be good for a least half hour then
Ugh, I take it you’re one of the folks who got a dud? :weary:
Yup , & still waiting ,it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement :weary: :weary: :weary:
it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement
it is faster to get a refund:
step 1, paypal dispute
step 2, you get a fast refund
step 3, place a new order
Another style…FW3A Ti-trit button WIP…