FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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shirnask
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RRT01

teacher
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jon_slider wrote:

the powder that CRX installed in the Titanium TCR-1 is noticeably brighter than the two different green tapes

the green powder charges up brighter, it does not fade as fast, it stays brighter longer

The powder is also brighter in the middle of the night than the tapes.

Both glow tapes and the powder, are all easily visible enough to see on my nightstand, when I wake in the dark without my glasses on. They do look a little fuzzy.. lol

I like the tape because it is removable if someone changes their mind

I like the permanent green powder, because it is… permanent.. lol

Thanks to pinkpanda, I also tried permanent red powder, it was very weak, and I could not see it on the nightstand. So I put some wedges of green glow sticker over it. Wink
The red is only visible immediately after charging, it fades almost immediately.

hope this glow conversation is not too much of a hijack, since my lights are not fw3a

I like it. . Beer It reminds me of a ‘Nuclear Radiation Warning Sign’.
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Nev
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jon_slider wrote:
Nev wrote:
it would’ve been quicker to walk to China to get a replacement

it is faster to get a refund:
step 1, paypal dispute
step 2, you get a fast refund
step 3, place a new order


I’ve been trying to be patient with neal as he is a quite good seller but it’s common knowledge that you are in for a very long wait when you get a defective item,
I hate it when the seller ignore you after sending multiple communications over a number of weeks. My last resort was to send the same messages to him but through PayPal (that way I know he is actually getting them )but unfortunately once that is done you only get a certain amount of time until you have to close the case or escalate it to dispute.
I just don’t like to be mucked about , if I was told a new head is gonna be sent then I am mug enough to believe it &patiently wait ,but it pisses me right off when replying through PayPal he asks would I like new optics or wait Facepalm & there’s me watching my doorstep thinking it’ll be here any day now as I was told it’s sent a few weeks earlier. Communication would have been very welcome
contactcr
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Very shaved dome LH351D in 10507 optic and UCL lens. Pretty good result. I tested with 10507 but I think 10511 would be better for shaved dome. With the dome on the 10507 is a huge round nice spot with almost zero spill which I really like.

Result is XYZ: 41.760214 40.952261 27.366394, Yxy: 40.952261 0.379366 0.372027
Ambient = 41.0 Lux, CCT = 3994K (Duv -0.0019)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.5 [ R9 = 68.9 ]

Result is XYZ: 308.742837 302.893439 203.654038, Yxy: 302.893439 0.378691 0.371516
Ambient = 302.9 Lux, CCT = 4009K (Duv -0.0020)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.3 [ R9 = 67.8 ]

Result is XYZ: 895.338142 879.402151 588.706878, Yxy: 879.402151 0.378827 0.372085
Ambient = 879.4 Lux, CCT = 4010K (Duv -0.0017)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.2 [ R9 = 67.1 ]

Result is XYZ: 1719.819988 1693.457136 1139.562316, Yxy: 1693.457136 0.377747 0.371956
Ambient = 1693.5 Lux, CCT = 4039K (Duv -0.0015)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 93.9 [ R9 = 66.3 ]

Result is XYZ: 3505.114982 3472.750461 2363.751932, Yxy: 3472.750461 0.375215 0.371750
Ambient = 3472.8 Lux, CCT = 4110K (Duv -0.0008)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 93.1 [ R9 = 63.8 ]

Result is XYZ: 6088.595046 6043.818431 4139.761315, Yxy: 6043.818431 0.374172 0.371420
Ambient = 6043.8 Lux, CCT = 4138K (Duv -0.0006)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.8 [ R9 = 62.7 ]

Result is XYZ: 9818.604960 9744.793063 6742.845071, Yxy: 9744.793063 0.373242 0.370437
Ambient = 9744.8 Lux, CCT = 4158K (Duv -0.0008)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.7 [ R9 = 61.8 ]

Result is XYZ: 20608.971910 20581.199213 14884.540903, Yxy: 20581.199213 0.367527 0.367032
Ambient = 20581.2 Lux, CCT = 4307K (Duv -0.0006)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.4 [ R9 = 56.4 ]

contactcr
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I also flashed a new 219B firmware to another light with all the new features (optional memory, 2 mode lockout, factory reset). Pretty cool. When my aux boards from Lexel get here i’ll play with that more.

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:
Do you find the glow powder glow duration to be similar to the tape?

the powder that CRX installed in the Titanium TCR-1 is noticeably brighter than the two different green tapes

the green powder charges up brighter, it does not fade as fast, it stays brighter longer

The powder is also brighter in the middle of the night than the tapes.

Both glow tapes and the powder, are all easily visible enough to see on my nightstand, when I wake in the dark without my glasses on. They do look a little fuzzy.. lol

I like the tape because it is removable if someone changes their mind

I like the permanent green powder, because it is… permanent.. lol

Thanks to pinkpanda, I also tried permanent red powder, it was very weak, and I could not see it on the nightstand. So I put some wedges of green glow sticker over it. Wink
Photo 1, Photo 2

hope this glow conversation is not too much of a hijack, since my lights are not fw3a

Thanks! Wow… that’s some serious glow power. Does CRX have a topic where he gets into the details of what product he uses and the substrate? I’m thinking it might be worthwhile to paint the GITD paste over GITD tape, so it can be removed at some later point.
jon_slider
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xevious wrote:
Does CRX have a topic where he gets into the details of what product he uses and the substrate?

CRX about glow types (and he sells glow gaskets for triples):
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62243

CRX wrote:

CRX about fw3a mods:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67154

CRX wrote:
SKV89
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I received the two FW3A, standard dark gray aluminum and the copper. The copper is drop dead gorgeous! The finish is very shiny, almost mirror like. It is the most beautiful copper light I’ve seen yet. Below are my test results:

Copper SST-20 4000K w/ stock Carclo and glass lens
lumens: 1,974
CCT: 3972
DUV: -0.0012
CRI: 95.2
R9: 83.8
Rf: 93
Rg: 102

Copper SST-20 4000K w/ UCL glass lens
lumens: 2,051
CCT: 3960
DUV: -0.0024
CRI: 95.6
R9: 86.0
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with stock non-Carclo optics (no glass lens)
lumens: 1,819
CCT: 3898K
DUV: -0.0025
CRI: 95.8
R9: 86.9
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (no glass lens)
lumens: 1,767
CCT: 3982K
DUV: -0.0031
CRI: 96.2
R9: 88.6
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (w/ UCL glass lens)
lumens: 1,802
CCT: 3904K
DUV: -0.0029
CRI: 96.3
R9: 87.7
Rf: 93
Rg: 103

Gray aluminum with Carclo 10509 optics (w/ UCL glass lens) at low output (first blink)
lumens: 99
CCT: 4052K
DUV: 0.0014
CRI: 96.4
R9: 93.4
Rf: 89
Rg: 98

E07 SST-20 4000K FB4 tint bin for comparison:
CCT: 3822K
DUV: 0.0028
CRI: 93.7
R9: 76.5
Rf: 93
Rg: 101

The SST-20 4000k in the FW3A matches the FD2 tint bin. It looks much better than the widely used FB4 tint or 219C 90CRI and high output is almost as good as Cree 5A/5D tint.

SKV89
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For anyone interested, I think the Kaidomain quad mcpcb and quad optic would be a direct swap in to the FW3A. The Kaidomain quad optic is smaller diameter than the Carclo quad but larger than Carclo triple. However it has slightly smaller OD than the non-Carclo stock triple that Lumintop was using in the previous batch of FW3A.

contactcr
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So you are saying this might fit cause the MCPCB is thicker and you would get rid of the front glass?

SKV89
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Yea at the expense of no front glass similar to the non-carclo stock optic.

contactcr
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Do you think this is the same optic Wuben and FireFlies used in their quads? If so I would liken it to something between narrow and medium beam width and lightly frosted in “Carclo” terms. It’s pretty good if you are not looking for overly throwy or overly floody.

Edit (stolen from Wuben thread, thanks Chatika vas Paus):

Looks the same to me.. (Wuben on top)

SKV89
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I haven’t tried the KD quad optic but it looks clear and throwy to me like the 10507. The Wuben and Fireflies optics are larger diameter.

contactcr
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The very middle of each optic is frosted. Same deal in Sofirn C01S

BurningPlayd0h
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Yeah the Wuben/Fireflies quad optic is much wider than a Carclo triple.

The KD triple optics I have are very throwy, and have almost a clear, “empty” looking spot right in the center of each individual optic. You can clearly see the emitter with no distortion/magnification I can see through the center. They don’t seem as efficient Carclo ones though, but that could be the light going into the wider spill vs Carclo narrow spot maybe? Hard to tell by the naked eye.

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I didn’t know that Wuben and Fireflies used quads different from Carclo.
Same with Manker and Mateminco. Are those all the same optics?

KawiBoy1428
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SKV89 wrote:
For anyone interested, I think the Kaidomain quad mcpcb and quad optic would be a direct swap in to the FW3A. The Kaidomain quad optic is smaller diameter than the Carclo quad but larger than Carclo triple. However it has slightly smaller OD than the non-Carclo stock triple that Lumintop was using in the previous batch of FW3A.


Might want to check the diameter of the FW3A’s sink/center section and depth….also…. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Tally-ho
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Agro wrote:
I didn’t know that Wuben and Fireflies used quads different from Carclo.
Same with Manker and Mateminco. Are those all the same optics?

The Wuben TO50R was supposed to use a carclo quad but they used this one instead, same TIR than the one of the FireFlies PL47.

Mateminco is using a different model.

contactcr
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Bah, someone set up the group buy for E07 15 degree lenses plz Smile

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contactcr wrote:
Bah, someone set up the group buy for E07 15 degree lenses plz Smile

Thing is…….Will it fit inside the FW3A’s sink?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

contactcr
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just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…

KawiBoy1428
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contactcr wrote:
just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…

Hahaaa! Ti Tubing…Ti Bezels and more…. Love

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-TA2-Titanium-Tube-High-Intensity-OD-26mm-x...

I’m saving and waiting on a good rotary table/chuck…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…

Hahaaa! Ti Tubing…Ti Bezels and more…. Love

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-TA2-Titanium-Tube-High-Intensity-OD-26mm-x...

I’m saving and waiting on a good rotary table/chuck…

Will you make a 18350 tube?
If so, I’m in Party Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

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Firelight2
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MascaratumB wrote:

Will you make a 18350 tube?
If so, I’m in Party Beer

Me too!!!! Silly
Umpi2000
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Firelight2 wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:

Will you make a 18350 tube?
If so, I’m in Party Beer

Me too!!!! Silly

And me
dragunbayne
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I was literally just thinking this morning how nice being able to have an 18350 FW3A would be. Now I see I’m not alone.

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I put in mine LH351D 4000K 90+CRI on Noctigon instead of xpl hi 7A.
Much better colour rendering. I will measure it later and add a pictures.
Mike

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shirnask
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sp5it wrote:
I put in mine LH351D 4000K 90+CRI on Noctigon instead of xpl hi 7A. Much better colour rendering. I will measure it later and add a pictures. Mike

Glad that worked out well for you

timbo114
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
just a few Ti bezel mods, we are waiting…

Hahaaa! Ti Tubing…Ti Bezels and more…. Love

I’m saving and waiting on a good rotary table/chuck…

Ti bezel and 18350 body would certainly jazz up my Cu units, I’m in!

kanton
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So, I have some plans I want to try – I finally got myself to order a programming device. Background is, that I want to use the light mostly in momentary mode on turbo but be able to use regular modes if I need them.

  • Does anyone know if there is an unused input pin on the chip for a second switch?
  • Are there schematics online somewhere?
  • Are there just the PCBs available to buy for cheap maybe (cheap as in I don’t have to buy a whole FW3A if I fry a board)?

Anyway, here we go:

Plan A:

  • Alter firmware to make flashlight always be in momentary turbo mode, defining a sequence to leave it and go either into a slimmed down Anduril or some own modes. Turning the light off will make it be in momentary mode again.
  • This should be doable without any hardware modifications except desoldering and resoldering to get to the microcontroller – I think I can do that if I invest enough time to alter the firmware

Plan B1:

  • Alter hardware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected to the the pin the tail switch is now connected to, Tail switch will just go to turbo, bypassing the microcontroller
  • I don’t know yet if it’s possible to simply bypass the microcontroller for turbo
  • If it’s possible, the light won’t have any LVP in momentary mode anymore.
  • There is only momentary the tailswitch can do, nothing else and there is no easy way to change this.

Plan B2:

  • Alter hardware AND firmware to add a secondary switch on the side. This secondary switch will be connected either to a free pin of the controller or maybe via voltage divider trickery to the same pin as the tail switch
  • All functions should be doable via firmware
  • LVP should stay intact
  • This will require a load of work

I think I have the skills to rewrite code to make it work, but I lack mechanical abilities/tools/knowledge to fit a side switch into this thing. I could design and 3D print an outside part in ABS that can fit a switch and drill a hole for the cables (and order a metal 3D print if that works and i’m happy with it). I thought about replacing the whole middle part with the shelf with a metal 3D printed part but I don’t think this will work out because of the threads – metal 3D printing is not that exact.

But again, only if I find enough time and motivation to do so. ^^

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