Just checked the datasheet, all XP-L HIs 3500K and below are 80 CRI minimum. This isn’t true for the HD and certainly isn’t a hard and fast rule for other Cree emitters.
Ok, thanks, glad to hear you came to the same conclusion. I wish we knew exactly what they are but that’s a good start.
I received my copper version on Friday. Couldn’t put the thing down the whole weekend… It already started to show signs of patina thanks Neal, Lumintop and BLF/TLF for making this deal possible!
pls post some pics… words mean nothing
I’ve had mine since the 10th, I think. It’s absolutely beautiful.
It was not my choice.
The company who did the shipping in Germany was somewhat unable to deliver to my original address.
They could not handle a company line.
I did not choose the type of shipping, it was the default for Germany.
All shipments where sent domestically and not international.
So how are the chances that my second light get’s shipped?
Neal did not reply to my email but since the address created so many issues with the first light I would like to make sure, that the second get’s send correctly right away.
Edit: ohh shit, I just noticed that the original shipping notice, says, that both lights should have been in it o.O dammmmmmn…
I only ever received one of them and thought the second would arrive later….
I received my copper version on Friday. Couldn’t put the thing down the whole weekend… It already started to show signs of patina thanks Neal, Lumintop and BLF/TLF for making this deal possible!
pls post some pics… words mean nothing
I’ve had mine since the 10th, I think. It’s absolutely beautiful.
I received my copper version on Friday. Couldn’t put the thing down the whole weekend… It already started to show signs of patina thanks Neal, Lumintop and BLF/TLF for making this deal possible!
pls post some pics… words mean nothing
I’ve had mine since the 10th, I think. It’s absolutely beautiful.
I wonder if there’s any secret achieving this and may like sharing it here?
It’s a looker!
I didn’t do anything special. Opened it up, tossed a GA inside, and play with it every now and again. It did see some pocket time on Sunday, but only a couple hours. Other than that it’s been sitting on my desk bezel down when I’m not using it.
Just checked the datasheet, all XP-L HIs 3500K and below are 80 CRI minimum. This isn’t true for the HD and certainly isn’t a hard and fast rule for other Cree emitters.
I have seen a number of Cree datasheets over time, in which all emitters at 3000K were 80 CRI minimum, and wrongfully concluded that it was true for all Cree emitters, sorry about that. At least it is true for the XP-L Hi, which is used in the FW3A.
Has anyone else put the UCL lens on an SST-20? Do you have before and after shots? Still waiting on mine, so I am stuck living vicariously through those of you who have received theirs.
For those with the FW3A and it’s “heavy” switch action, and awaiting or has the FW3C with its “light” switch action, consider swapping the switches. I found that the heavy switch goes well with the heavy light, and vice versa… There’s just something it does to my mind. When I pick up the heavy light, I appreciate the heavy switch action,and also vice versa.
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
I didnt do anything scientific but I was pretty sure when I pulled both switches they were identical and the difference was actually how the tail opening was milled and the sizing of the nub was slightly trimmed. So if you moved the rubber gasket and nub that would make sense but if you only moved the metal tail it doesn’t make sense to me.
I received my copper version on Friday. Couldn’t put the thing down the whole weekend… It already started to show signs of patina thanks Neal, Lumintop and BLF/TLF for making this deal possible!
I didnt do anything scientific but I was pretty sure when I pulled both switches they were identical and the difference was actually how the tail opening was milled and the sizing of the nub was slightly trimmed. So if you moved the rubber gasket and nub that would make sense but if you only moved the metal tail it doesn’t make sense to me.
I swapped everything around. From the switch, to the rubber boot, to the metal button. Exact same feeling, swapped around. Loving it.
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
Mine just randomly showed up today! DHL and USPS never showed any tracking. A few observations.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
The SST-20 is very neutral considering it’s CRI is great!
My nubbin stays in the boot and is not apt to jumping out.
My rear spring is soldered nicely, there is plenty of clearance over the trace, all three pads are soldered flat, and the sharp of the spring is on a pad.
The switch was nice and clean, I just replaced the kapton tape with mine which is wide enough to cover the entire metal switch.
I did need to slightly move the driver. When tightening the head tight it would switch on it’s own, when just snug it was fine though.
There was some solder running around freely under the optic. I used a nylon spudger and carefully removed both pieces. Everything else looked fairly clean, but I will clean once I have cotton swabs.
The switch feels really nice, but is a bit sensitive. I will be trying some stuff mentioned to tune it.
That greenish XPL HI is definitely not a 3D tint. I have 3A and 3D tint and there is no green at all. My 5A and 5D tint Cree emitters are rosier than the SST20 FD2. Lumintop probably got duped by their supplier
That greenish XPL HI is definitely not a 3D tint. I have 3A and 3D tint and there is no green at all. My 5A and 5D tint Cree emitters are rosier than the SST20 FD2. Lumintop probably got duped by their supplier
That’s unfortunately the best explanation I’ve heard for why the “3D” on the FW3A looks so gross.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
UCL lens usually doesn’t change tint “that” much unless the stock lens bumps up the DUV significantly. The UCL lens basically measures about the same as no lens in terms of tint change. To see how much rosier it would be to swap in a UCL lens, I take tint measurements of with and without stock lens. If DUV drops then that means it’s worth it to get the UCL lens. Most flashlights will see about a -0.0005 to -0.0020 reduction in DUV making for a rosier tint. An exception is the Emisar/Noctigon series lights that see about no change in DUV. I think the lens Hank uses is the same as the UCL lens. Another proof that Hank uses premium quality parts.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
UCL lens usually doesn’t change tint “that” much unless the stock lens bumps up the DUV significantly. The UCL lens basically measures about the same as no lens in terms of tint change. To see how much rosier it would be to swap in a UCL lens, I take tint measurements of with and without stock lens. If DUV drops then that means it’s worth it to get the UCL lens. Most flashlights will see about a -0.0005 to -0.0020 reduction in DUV making for a rosier tint. An exception is the Emisar/Noctigon series lights that see about no change in DUV. I think the lens Hank uses is the same as the UCL lens. Another proof that Hank uses premium quality parts.
Regarding Emisar, I found this to be true with my first D4 and D4S, but the 2nd D4S I got a few months ago had a significantly worse lens that definitely caused a green shift. Replacing it with a non-coated lens made a huge different in tint.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
UCL lens usually doesn’t change tint “that” much unless the stock lens bumps up the DUV significantly. The UCL lens basically measures about the same as no lens in terms of tint change. To see how much rosier it would be to swap in a UCL lens, I take tint measurements of with and without stock lens. If DUV drops then that means it’s worth it to get the UCL lens. Most flashlights will see about a -0.0005 to -0.0020 reduction in DUV making for a rosier tint. An exception is the Emisar/Noctigon series lights that see about no change in DUV. I think the lens Hank uses is the same as the UCL lens. Another proof that Hank uses premium quality parts.
Regarding Emisar, I found this to be true with my first D4 and D4S, but the 2nd D4S I got a few months ago had a significantly worse lens that definitely caused a green shift. Replacing it with a non-coated lens made a huge different in tint.
Oh that’s bad news. My D4S I bought when it was first release had a perfect lens. The quad optic, despite being stellar at throw, is what makes things green. I measured it to increase DUV about 0.006, which is why my SST-20 3000K version doesn’t have the nice rosy look as my other SST-20 3000K lights.
Hopefully mine is in one of those boxes.
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
Ok, thanks, glad to hear you came to the same conclusion. I wish we knew exactly what they are but that’s a good start.
I’ve had mine since the 10th, I think. It’s absolutely beautiful.
I agree!
It almost looks like woodgrain!
It was not my choice.
The company who did the shipping in Germany was somewhat unable to deliver to my original address.
They could not handle a company line.
I did not choose the type of shipping, it was the default for Germany.
All shipments where sent domestically and not international.
PM SENT
I wonder if there’s any secret achieving this and may like sharing it here?
It’s a looker!
I didn’t do anything special. Opened it up, tossed a GA inside, and play with it every now and again. It did see some pocket time on Sunday, but only a couple hours. Other than that it’s been sitting on my desk bezel down when I’m not using it.
——
Edit: hit reply instead of quote
wow thats really good looking.. looks like wood haha.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
Beautiful!
https://www.instagram.com/lumenzilla/
Just got a shipping notification that my FW3A grey/7A light has shipped. Thanks Neal for making sure that we got the lights at their best!
I have seen a number of Cree datasheets over time, in which all emitters at 3000K were 80 CRI minimum, and wrongfully concluded that it was true for all Cree emitters, sorry about that. At least it is true for the XP-L Hi, which is used in the FW3A.
link to djozz tests
My FW3C SST-20 4000K 95CRI beauty just got in today:
Left: XP-L HI 3D —————————————————————————-SST-20 4000K 95CRI (both on medium mode)
nice pair, will be fun to have 2lights and one in copper
i like the sst20 tint.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
Has anyone else put the UCL lens on an SST-20? Do you have before and after shots? Still waiting on mine, so I am stuck living vicariously through those of you who have received theirs.
Probably has been asked. How does the new lens configuration effect OTF lumens?
For those with the FW3A and it’s “heavy” switch action, and awaiting or has the FW3C with its “light” switch action, consider swapping the switches. I found that the heavy switch goes well with the heavy light, and vice versa… There’s just something it does to my mind. When I pick up the heavy light, I appreciate the heavy switch action,and also vice versa.
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
I didnt do anything scientific but I was pretty sure when I pulled both switches they were identical and the difference was actually how the tail opening was milled and the sizing of the nub was slightly trimmed. So if you moved the rubber gasket and nub that would make sense but if you only moved the metal tail it doesn’t make sense to me.
Sorry for the link, but I’m not sure if Google Photos can host pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjRv6g6DWEBV4KF48
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
I swapped everything around. From the switch, to the rubber boot, to the metal button. Exact same feeling, swapped around. Loving it.
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
I posted measurements for both here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/c6vfe5/review_lumintop_fw3a...
Mine just randomly showed up today! DHL and USPS never showed any tracking. A few observations.
The UCL lens does nice but minor changes to the tint.
The SST-20 is very neutral considering it’s CRI is great!
My nubbin stays in the boot and is not apt to jumping out.
My rear spring is soldered nicely, there is plenty of clearance over the trace, all three pads are soldered flat, and the sharp of the spring is on a pad.
The switch was nice and clean, I just replaced the kapton tape with mine which is wide enough to cover the entire metal switch.
I did need to slightly move the driver. When tightening the head tight it would switch on it’s own, when just snug it was fine though.
There was some solder running around freely under the optic. I used a nylon spudger and carefully removed both pieces. Everything else looked fairly clean, but I will clean once I have cotton swabs.
The switch feels really nice, but is a bit sensitive. I will be trying some stuff mentioned to tune it.
That greenish XPL HI is definitely not a 3D tint. I have 3A and 3D tint and there is no green at all. My 5A and 5D tint Cree emitters are rosier than the SST20 FD2. Lumintop probably got duped by their supplier
That’s unfortunately the best explanation I’ve heard for why the “3D” on the FW3A looks so gross.
Just remember the camera lies , why am I defending the FW3a ,I hate everything about it
UCL lens usually doesn’t change tint “that” much unless the stock lens bumps up the DUV significantly. The UCL lens basically measures about the same as no lens in terms of tint change. To see how much rosier it would be to swap in a UCL lens, I take tint measurements of with and without stock lens. If DUV drops then that means it’s worth it to get the UCL lens. Most flashlights will see about a -0.0005 to -0.0020 reduction in DUV making for a rosier tint. An exception is the Emisar/Noctigon series lights that see about no change in DUV. I think the lens Hank uses is the same as the UCL lens. Another proof that Hank uses premium quality parts.
Just recieved tracking for mine today.
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
Regarding Emisar, I found this to be true with my first D4 and D4S, but the 2nd D4S I got a few months ago had a significantly worse lens that definitely caused a green shift. Replacing it with a non-coated lens made a huge different in tint.
Oh that’s bad news. My D4S I bought when it was first release had a perfect lens. The quad optic, despite being stellar at throw, is what makes things green. I measured it to increase DUV about 0.006, which is why my SST-20 3000K version doesn’t have the nice rosy look as my other SST-20 3000K lights.
Pages