I’m not sure everyone understood what djozz was saying. I think he’s saying he uses a thick washer to slice first, then a slightly thinner one to slice a bit more, then a thinner one again, then the thinnest one gets the last slice to be the right height.
I don't know exact tint bin, but I've never seen Lumileds LEDs available in narrow tint bin range,they are only available as 3 or 5-step MacAdam ellipse.
They will be replaced by new design,fully gold plated this time, so price will be a little bit higher (similar to 3030 DTPs). Existing PCBs at reduced price will be available until stock is exhausted.
I don't plan to have 5050 pcbs anymore, only two popular LEDs use them these days: SST-40 and XHP50.2, and I don't stock any of those, so it doesn't make too much sense to have pcbs and no LEDs.
Luxeon V is IHMO better LED overall than SST-40 so I don't want to stock two very similar LEDs, XHP50.2 has ugly beam tint - don't want to stock those either for this reason.
Question though, I haven’t been able to find the answer and haven’t built a triple yet so forgive me if this seems like a simple/noob question… I see the L4P triple spacer has a bolt and a spacer whereas others, such as kiriba-ru’s, just have the spacer. Why is that and is there a practical difference? I’ve gone through a number of X6 triple/quad build posts (including yours) but am still struggling to get my head around the role the bolt plays.
You only drill the X6 shelf enough to fit the bolt so head of the bolt presses on the bottom of LED shelf. The inside of the spacer is threaded so it grabs onto that and pulls spacer toward top of LED shelf