My guess is the spring still exists in the HDS design to this day, as a wire, because it provides power to the Electronic switch. If it had a mechanical switch, the spring could go away, and an 18350 could be used…
I believe it could be possible, maybe by clearing the stock driver board and connecting the MTN driver to the appropriate contacts.
I haven’t opened the pill on one of these so don’t know how it is inside but would imagine there would be space for a 14mm or 15mm driver?
I dont know the answer to your questions, and look forward to learning more.
I would like to learn more about options like the H17f driver in a Novatac, I dont know the pros and cons of that option, Im hoping CRX will come up with some real world testing soon…
My main interest would be to find a driver, with ramping UI, or at least programmable, that did not use any PWM below 3000Hz, and that would not have other types of visible flicker. afaik the D4 driver uses PWM, I think the H17f does too, but I have not owned any lights with those drivers, so have not had opportunity to test them with my phone camera, and my eyes.
Im very interested in coming up with a viable option to drive a tripple Nova with a NoPWM, NoFlicker driver, and that has a more intuitive UI than the Novatac or HDS. One that could be handed to a newbie with simple instructions, like, click on, click off, hold to ramp brighter…
Yeah. The one I have definitely had threadlocker between the head and the battery tube, so wondering if some of that might have seeped towards the retaining ring. I’ve tried clamping down hard on the outside of the body to see if it might just be frozen in place but again, no luck!