FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Helios azimuth
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ToyKeeper wrote:

In any case, some of the moonbeam buttons arrived today

Looks great! Do you know which lights will have it? Will it be on the ti that will start shipping in a week?

Tally-ho
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@Helios azimuth,

The purple FW3A will have it.

Helios azimuth
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@Tally-ho
Thank you

mortuus
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m not sure if the buttons will be available on their own, but they’re not at the moment.

i thought all lights outside group buys will have them? maybe not ? ..

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Chronoscape
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My SST20 FW3A from Neil was delivered yesterday, and this morning I was going through the different modes and configs when it suddenly shut down into some kind of momentary mode. It will not turn on, the emitters just sort of flutter at moonlight level when I press the button. Can’t get out of this no matter what I try. It’s a freshly charged Samsung Q30 battery that I ordered along with the light.

Any ideas?

Johm
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The tail is not making good contact.

Crank the tail down before screwing the head on.

There is a thread regarding first time maintenance as well.

Chronoscape
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Johm wrote:
The tail is not making good contact.

Crank the tail down before screwing the head on.

There is a thread regarding first time maintenance as well.

Thanks, that’s exactly what it was. Tightened everything down and it’s back to normal.

mattlward
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Just ordered my third FW3A… I have dropped 219b sw40’s in one, left the stock SST-20 4000k in one and will be either trying LH351D’s or SST-20 4000k FD2’s in the next. One thing I have noticed, I have the FW3A in the stock SST-20 and I have the D4V2 in the stock SST-20, they are not the same tint bin! The D4V2 is quite a bit more green/yellow at all output ranges. The FW3A SST-20 4000k actually does not look terrible when compared side by side with the Nichia 4000k sw40’s. So hats off to whomever sourced the current 4000k SST-20’s.

Also when changing led’s I am updating to the latest firmware. The solder work on the drivers is very good as the SOIC-8 clip attaches very well to the chip. The more I use and carry the FW3A, the more I love the light. It has replaced my Zebralight in my rotation. Runtime is great as long as one stays in the range of current regulated output and with the 219b version being my EDC, there is not much to be gained by going to FET drive anyway. The final result will be to determine the led’s I want to use in it and then I will order that good looking purple one and build it for EDC.

I am hoping to get a chance to do some tint comparisons with the above led’s, my NW Zebralight and my old standby XM footprint XM-L2 4C light.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

jasontheguitarist
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mattlward wrote:
Just ordered my third FW3A… I have dropped 219b sw40’s in one, left the stock SST-20 4000k in one and will be either trying LH351D’s or SST-20 4000k FD2’s in the next. One thing I have noticed, I have the FW3A in the stock SST-20 and I have the D4V2 in the stock SST-20, they are not the same tint bin! The D4V2 is quite a bit more green/yellow at all output ranges. The FW3A SST-20 4000k actually does not look terrible when compared side by side with the Nichia 4000k sw40’s. So hats off to whomever sourced the current 4000k SST-20’s.

Also when changing led’s I am updating to the latest firmware. The solder work on the drivers is very good as the SOIC-8 clip attaches very well to the chip. The more I use and carry the FW3A, the more I love the light. It has replaced my Zebralight in my rotation. Runtime is great as long as one stays in the range of current regulated output and with the 219b version being my EDC, there is not much to be gained by going to FET drive anyway. The final result will be to determine the led’s I want to use in it and then I will order that good looking purple one and build it for EDC.

I am hoping to get a chance to do some tint comparisons with the above led’s, my NW Zebralight and my old standby XM footprint XM-L2 4C light.

Neal said the SST-20 bin they used in the FW3A is FA3, which is a very good one. I think it tests good, but I guess there’s no way to tell if they are REALLY FA3 or maybe FD2s or something. They look pretty much the same as the FD2s to me. Way better than the FB4 I got in a convoy light.

contactcr
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There is almost zero chance these are FA3. They are 39xx CCT and above BBL at all levels except turbo. Better than most sure but I think FD2 is a better educated guess.

mattlward
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Not sure, all I am sure of right now is the very early SST20 FW3A makes the D4V2 look like puke! I have some FD2’s that I will reflow and test, if the light does have FD2’s then they are pretty good.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

jasontheguitarist
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mattlward wrote:
Not sure, all I am sure of right now is the very early SST20 FW3A makes the D4V2 look like puke! I have some FD2’s that I will reflow and test, if the light does have FD2’s then they are pretty good.

It’s a shame Emisar didn’t try to get the same ones Lumintop did. I kind of want a D4V2 but not with the green SSTs. And due to the fancy board with the aux LEDs I don’t really want to try to reflow it.

I was thinking of trying the D4V2 in the 3000k SST-20. I’ve heard the 3000k ones are generally a good tint.

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jasontheguitarist wrote:
. And due to the fancy board with the aux LEDs

The aux leds are on a seperate aux board, not the main mcpcb.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

jasontheguitarist
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Cereal_killer wrote:
jasontheguitarist wrote:
. And due to the fancy board with the aux LEDs
The aux leds are on a seperate aux board, not the main mcpcb.

I went back and looked at TK’s review. I saw it before but I didn’t realize it was two boards stacked on top of each other. Cool.

contactcr
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That doesn’t make it any easier to change out the main LEDs though. It’s not that bad but it’s certainly a delicate procedure getting the wires back in place and neatly soldered. You wont be just mashing the iron on a huge open space where the only two hookup wires go like the FW3A. Smile

Chronoscape
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Have the modes/lumens/runtimes for the SST-20’s been posted anywhere? I have only been able to find info on the XPL HI’s:

Moonlight ~0.2 lumens (~74 days)
1 × 7135 Max: ~130 lumens (10 hours)
8 × 7135 Max: ~900 lumens (1.25 hours)
Max FET: ~2800 lumens (**10 second stepdown due to heat)

Wondering what the specs are for SST-20.

thisnameisvalid
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Chronoscape wrote:
Have the modes/lumens/runtimes for the SST-20’s been posted anywhere? I have only been able to find info on the XPL HI’s:

Moonlight ~0.2 lumens (~74 days)
1 × 7135 Max: ~130 lumens (10 hours)
8 × 7135 Max: ~900 lumens (1.25 hours)
Max FET: ~2800 lumens (**10 second stepdown due to heat)

Wondering what the specs are for SST-20.

Everything except FET modes will be nearly identical as the 7135 modes are current regulated, although it will stay regulated for longer due to the lower forward voltage so runtimes will be slightly shorter. FET modes will be shorter for the SST due to more heat and lower forward voltage of the LED (=>more current)

contactcr
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Chronoscape
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contactcr wrote:
Here’s Bob’s numbers for SST-20:

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/c6vfe5/review_lumintop_fw3a...

Great info there, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

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thisnameisvalid wrote:
Chronoscape wrote:
Have the modes/lumens/runtimes for the SST-20’s been posted anywhere? I have only been able to find info on the XPL HI’s:

Moonlight ~0.2 lumens (~74 days)
1 × 7135 Max: ~130 lumens (10 hours)
8 × 7135 Max: ~900 lumens (1.25 hours)
Max FET: ~2800 lumens (**10 second stepdown due to heat)

Wondering what the specs are for SST-20.

Everything except FET modes will be nearly identical as the 7135 modes are current regulated, although it will stay regulated for longer due to the lower forward voltage so runtimes will be slightly shorter. FET modes will be shorter for the SST due to more heat and lower forward voltage of the LED (=>more current)


Your not taking into consideration the output of the SST-20. When compared to the xpl-hi, the SST-20 has maybe 30% less output at the same current. So 1 × 7135 is still a regulated 350 milliamp, but the output is lower. I don’t know if it’s lower forward current plays a factor in the regulated modes, but it definitely does when using the FET.

The effect of forward voltage on a current limited PWM signal is making my head hurt. Ughh Maybe someone here can explain it.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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freq
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I’ve been waiting to pull the trigger on an FW3A purchase – specifically waiting for various issues (hardware and software) to stabilize… now?… now?… seems close – am I wrong?…

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freq wrote:
I’ve been waiting to pull the trigger on an FW3A purchase – specifically waiting for various issues (hardware and software) to stabilize… now?… now?… seems close – am I wrong?…

What issues do you mean?

The software is the same, no problems there. Maybe in a couple months they will update it to include the reset function (not really necessary, IMO)

Hardware wise the factory switched the optic. It’s still a good optic, but if you want the Carclo you can order from Neal. They seem to make small changes to the button design, some better, some worse so it’s a toss up there.

I see no reason to wait, unless it’s for a colored one or a metal version that’s not out yet.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
jasontheguitarist wrote:
. And due to the fancy board with the aux LEDs
The aux leds are on a seperate aux board, not the main mcpcb.

It is reportedly hard to solder all the wires to the two different boards to reinstall everything after you replace the emitters, though.

If I remember right, even DB Custom commented on it being a challenge, and he’s got quite a bit of experience modifying lights.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Cereal_killer wrote:
jasontheguitarist wrote:
. And due to the fancy board with the aux LEDs
The aux leds are on a seperate aux board, not the main mcpcb.

It is reportedly hard to solder all the wires to the two different boards to reinstall everything after you replace the emitters, though.

If I remember right, even DB Custom commented on it being a challenge, and he’s got quite a bit of experience modifying lights.


Plenty of room, just have to have your wires set-up with the right length and in the correct position (s) to reach the pads.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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If you can reflow 4 emitters at once you can solder 4 extra wires.

Is it harder than a basic light with one single emitter on a nice, open 20mm star? Sure.
Impossible? Absolutely not. My statement above stands, don’t let a few extra wires stop you if you’re otherwise confident in your reflow abilities man, this is BLF, we mod things to out liking around here!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

freq
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JasonWW wrote:
What issues do you mean? …The software is the same…. Hardware wise the factory…

principally hardware, like the tail-end nub size, and switch ‘feel’ have recently been mentioned – and yes the optic… also, firmware can always change… minor stuff… mfg’d stuff has a life progression, usually for the better…

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I’ve heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable.

Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I’m not sure how long it’ll be before it’s actually shipped to anyone.

freq
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hey- thx for the heads up on that, tk… I’m just a noob trying to pay attention here… does/will that firmware origin with you? – and reside (someday) in your reposit?… oh boy – another collectable micro-stabbing com device for my box-o-jtag junk collection… btw, (off topic) the funniest thing I read in the last ten years was on your pat site – re: expensive flatulence creation thru the magic of control voltage devices – hilarious… thx for that too… later…

nobody
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I've heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable. Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I'm not sure how long it'll be before it's actually shipped to anyone.
Good news on these updates. It’s always good to see improvement. Hopefully the latest firmware will make it into the purple one I just ordered . Can’t wait to get it and check it out.  
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mattlward wrote:
Just ordered my third FW3A… I have dropped 219b sw40’s in one, left the stock SST-20 4000k in one and will be either trying LH351D’s or SST-20 4000k FD2’s in the next. One thing I have noticed, I have the FW3A in the stock SST-20 and I have the D4V2 in the stock SST-20, they are not the same tint bin! The D4V2 is quite a bit more green/yellow at all output ranges. The FW3A SST-20 4000k actually does not look terrible when compared side by side with the Nichia 4000k sw40’s. So hats off to whomever sourced the current 4000k SST-20’s.

Also when changing led’s I am updating to the latest firmware. The solder work on the drivers is very good as the SOIC-8 clip attaches very well to the chip. The more I use and carry the FW3A, the more I love the light. It has replaced my Zebralight in my rotation. Runtime is great as long as one stays in the range of current regulated output and with the 219b version being my EDC, there is not much to be gained by going to FET drive anyway. The final result will be to determine the led’s I want to use in it and then I will order that good looking purple one and build it for EDC.

I am hoping to get a chance to do some tint comparisons with the above led’s, my NW Zebralight and my old standby XM footprint XM-L2 4C light.

Did you limit the FET on your FW3A 219B? I have the same LED’s on the way for my current FW3A running 219C’s from Kaidomain. It draws 9.1A on turbo with a fresh Samsung 35E cells. It should be safe for the odd turbo blast with the higher Vf 219B’s, right?

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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