I bought the XP-LHI 7A version, 1st batch, and swapped in SST-20 3000K LEDās from BlueSwordM a shirt while after. They lasted lots of turbo runs then I went over to Nichia 219Cās. Iām waiting for a SST-20 version from the factory, then I can test the turbo current on both.
I donāt know for sure what firmware the SST-20 version uses, but I donāt think itās limiting the FET. At least, I never sent Lumintop any firmware with a limit. The difference may be more related to the SST-20 high-CRI emitters simply being less efficient.
It really has earned its reputation though, as a very expensive way to not make music. People dump in enough money to buy a new car, and then end up just using it to make self-generating ambient patches which either control themselves or are triggered by measuring the brain activity of house plants.
I get the appeal, since it really is enjoyable to make noise. Itās a rather zen meditative sort of experience. But a lot of people seem to be under the illusion that itās something more than that, or that another piece of gear (rather than hard work and skill) will grant the power to make good music that other people will want to listen to.
Hereās one of the memes I see going around in synth communities:
I would not think the SST-20ās would require any kind of restriction. I think that the difference in output is just the nature of the hi cri beast and just the limits of the particular led. My SST-20ās get the full on version and I have not cooked any yet, but I do get out of turbo when it is to hot to hold with my wimpy fingers!
ok, that answers that - glad I askedā¦ a digikey order nextā¦ thxā¦
(off topic) and that meme - stop it, youāre killinā meā¦ tears in my eyes from laughing so hard (again) for reasons I wonāt go into hereā¦ but yes, more blinking shiny furniture, pleaseā¦
I enjoy it, but I donāt expect anyone else to care about the noises I make. I have a Digitakt and a Blofeld and a keyboardā¦ and I figure if I canāt make good music with that, no amount of gear would help. The main limiting factor isnāt my gear, but my skill. And that largely depends on how much time I put into it.
Thanks for posting the pix. Iām anxious to get my order. Seeing the blue one, I wish I would have included one of those. Iām actually hoping a batch of āboringā black will be made. Then I have to order black and blue.
I know I am a little late to the party, but I discovered the real issue:
The driver board is sometimes not properly centered (this could be true of the board in the tailcap as well).
I had all the same issues and did all the steps several times.
The cure was to loosen the retaining ring on the head, CENTER the board by grabbing the spring with my needlenose pliers and getting it centered, and tightening it down. Since then, PERFECT.
Since the signal is carried in the tube, I am not certain if this was a bad contact issue, or more likely it was shorting out to the body through the ring. Whatever, this is the actual cure. All the other mechanations are probably just moving everything around until it somehow lines up.
Anyway, this is the issue when the light flickers screwing on the head (the flicker means there is indeed power) and the switch does nothing.
AND
If you crank it down too hard (your really donāt need to do that once everything is properly aligned) the easy way to get it apart is throw it into your freezer for about 5- 10 minutes, at which point it will unscrew with minimum effort (the metal contracts and it no longer grabs the shoulder).
Please, donāt ask me how I KNOW this works LOL.
Is the newest Nubbin wider and thicker? We might need a new size drill bit to make new size nubbins.
Much Ado about Nubbin
I have not been posting for awhile, and thought Iād provide an update on my ānubbin situationā as if anybody cares.
The original orange gatorade replacement nubbin I made is still in the same FW3A. I just left it in there and itās been fine.
On the first day I made it, I thought that the bottle-cap plastic may be too soft and it had deformed, but the nubbin just needed readjusted back into the correct position. I was thinking about making a nubbin from a rubber compound, but the plastic seems to be perfectly fine. Since then the light has been used in heavy rotation and I have had zero problems, of course always replacing the battery from the head.
Be thankful I didnāt hit you upside the cranium with a dozen extremely unfunny puns. In my post that got moved to the troubleshooting thread I had actually typed up possibilities and was attempting to work them into the post. Things like āNubbin Lost, Nubbin Gained.ā and ā True Knowledge Exists In Knowing You Know Nubbin.ā. It was just too silly and in the end, I held myself down to only two puns! Consider yourself lucky.
ToyKeeper, I do not own any Synths, but I hear thereās nubbin better.
Overal both flashlights have same size and apperance (please ignore the blue button and the rubber cigar grip on my āV1ā) but the āV2ā (right) has a silver clip
(note: the copper comes with silver clip too)
the V2 (right) has a bronce retaining ring in the head (silver in V1)
the V2 (left) has a black retaining ring in the tailcap (none/all loose in V1)
that black retainer in the tailcaps needs some space ā thus the V2 (right!) has a shorter shoulder and the threads sit noticeable deeperā¦ (the outer tailcap bodies are identically)
the inner tube of the V2 (left) has a much longer upper part then V1
V1 (left) uses a glas lens + carclo optic
V2 (right) comes with Lumintops own optic (one pcs)
-> i tested both optic setups vice versa in both lights and there is no difference in Lumen output!