I didnāt say strictly all three tints equally. One can use a combination of the 3 to get a lot of different tints. For example, 4x 4000K and 8x 5000K. Or 8x 3000K and 4x 5000K. Or even 2x 5000, 6x 4000K, 4x 3000K. Emphasis on tint mixing in that particular light. So many tint mixing options possible with that light, and many of them will suit a lot of people.
Like my EO7, the 1x 5000K is enough, to my taste, with the 3x 3000K and 3x 4000K. I had a 4000K in its place and it wasnāt quite right for me.
Another advantage of buying V2ās from led4power.com is that all the tints are the same Vf bin. Perfect!
That had to be a fun reflowā¦ I have never used the Luxeon V2ās. Seems like they may be a good led for triples and quads, just never in the right place at the right time to pick them up.
Added a second emitter group. And added two relays, as the current eventually will be to high for a switch to handle.
The second quad is XP-G2. 2x S4-5D 4000K and 2x S3-3A 5000K
The first has been upgraded to 4x XP-E2 P3 A2 amber leds
Next step is adding the 3A charger circuit, and connecting the two other 18650 bays.
Iāve been out of town with the birthday boy but on Sunday I modified the Arctic Cat Iād been working on, condensed it from 650 pounds to about 44.62 ounces.
This is a Ray-O-Vac Hunter Lantern 398, purchased on eBay, new-in-box. The Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube measured 20 lumens with original bulb.
It would have used a 6V lantern battery, back in the day. It can also use eight Ray-O-Vac "#2D" cells (according to the instructions). However, regular D cells were too big and C cells were too small. The Ray-O-Vac #2D cell must be something unique. Doesn't matter, I will use 21700 batteries.
An EBLCL Maglite LED bulb (link) was installed in the bulb holder, giving it about 130-150 lumens, measured out the front (see runtime graph). A blob of solder was added to the spring, for better contact.
A dual 21700 carrier was hot-glued and wired into the main housing.
Two Samsung 21700 were installed in series (the EBLCL Maglite bulb is rated up to 9V).
DC-Fix diffusion film was added to the front lens to smooth out the beam.
A runtime test was performed, to make sure everything is working.
Thatās really cool, Terry. Awesome how it still looks stock (except for the film) and Iām assuming everything can be undone?
Also, does that bulb have low voltage protection? Based on the runtime graph Iām guessing so, but Iām not sure how that would work based on it handling 3-5 D batteries.
The cut off voltage is 2.5V. Just tested another EBLCL bulb on a variable power supply. At 2.6V - just a little bit of light - at 2.5V, nothing. I've used that bulb in about six other vintage lights, no problems.
Ohhh. Iām sure I donāt need to warn you of this but Iāll just throw it out thereā¦ be careful with that cutoff. With your cells in series, each one could get down to 1.25V
Iād be curious to see if the light is equally bright with only one cell (or with them in parallel for extra runtime). That way low voltage isnāt a concern. With such a wide voltage range and flat runtime graph, Iām curious if thereās a small stepdown circuit inside. In which case, running cells in series (higher voltage) actually might not increase brightness.
Just did an experiment with a power supply and the Texas Ace Tube. At 3.7V (approx one cell), output drops significantly (from two in series at approx 7.4V). Would only get worse as the single battery level drops a bit.