Feasible: Emisar D4 RGBW
That is wonderful! And generous too.
I’ll wait until my next order and ask for a pair of them then, so you don’t have to pay postage for them.
Thank you for offering the option!
It’s not really an option for existing owners unless you have a good way to get the current ring out without damaging the light
I would bet the same tricks used to remove an Olight bezel would work. I may try on mine, I would really like this option. So, razor blade and shoe knife here I come.
nice offer, and thanks for being honest about the difficulty of replacing it. Because of the difficulty I will not get one …… mine is fine as is.
Same here, but we know how to get it out: Heat. Proven by Muggle-Mode victims. Of course, asked Hank, but then decided not to take his offer.
I think this should only be an option when ordering a new light. Can’t expect Hank to be shipping these for free separately to everyone owning a d4.
Do you have any details to share about the driver and firmware beyond what you posted in that thread?
It seems there are few 4-channel drivers currently available, especially that allow variable mixing.
Dr. Jones (Capable of mixing) - out of production
Meld-X (Capable of mixing) - out of production
Mountain Electronics (simple) - sold out
Kaidomain KZ-3016 (simple) - 3-channel
My personal interest is RGBA (I want to play with Clemence’s phosphor-converted color E17A’s).
It is extremely easy to remove the Retaining Ring on the Emisar D4 series lights without damaging the light or the button boot.
Tools needed:
- Victorinox mini pocket knife. The standard one with the nailfile with small flat tip screwdriver at the tip.
Instructions:
- Open the nailfile of your Victorinox mini with flat-tip screwdriver at the end.
- Place the light flat on table or in a vise, with the button face-up. If not holding it in a vise, hold the light down with your left hand.
- Hold the knife in your right hand with the nailfile face up, perpendicular to the light.
- Slide the nailfile over the top of the button boot at a 20 or 30 degree angle down until it hits the inside edge of the retaining ring.
- Press the nailfile straight down as you push forward. If done right it should compress the edge of the button boot and slip under the bottom of the retaining ring.
- Once the file is under the edge of the retaining ring, removing the boot is easy. Simply push down on the handle of the knife to lever the button boot off. Or roll the knife 90 degrees to accomplish the same effect.
Victorinox mini is a better choice than using a conventional screwdriver, because the edges of the mini are all rounded. It won’t tear up the button boot like a regular screwdriver would.
Once you get the hang of it, it takes maybe 5 seconds to remove the retaining ring on a D4 without damage to any of the parts. However, be advised that the ring itself is held in place with a friction fit. If you take off and replace the ring too many times the sharp edge of the steel retaining ring will eventually erode the aluminum socket and it will no longer stay in place. If that happens, use super glue to hold the ring to the head.
i have not had any accidental activation of my light (not including the bug on my early production d4v2). but would be cool to have a raised ring around the switch. i got some optional items on order from mtnelectronics on the way.
I followed your instructions, but my bezel is probably very tight pushed because it can not be done in this way.
I made a hole in the rubber…
Game-changer.
Video from MTN-man about muggle mode nearly starting a fire in his truck.
He says he did not receive any warning email about muggle mode (maybe in spam folder?).
Although most discussion about muggle bug is now ‘old news’, I just wonder how many units are out there with guys who didn’t receive the email or don’t hang out on the forums.
I never got a warning about the muggle mode bug. (I did check my spam folder) However,I knew about it from this forum and ordered the flashing kit. I’m sure Hank knows how many lights with the bug were sold. I wonder how many kits were sold and how that compares, although some, like me, ordered only one kit for the multiple lights they bought.
Received my reflashing kit from Hank. With the help of the thread posts outlining the avrdude setup on MacOS, my D4V2 is all updated and good to go! I wasn’t worried about the muggle bug, as I don’t use that mode ever, but it is nice to have all features ready to go now and the ability to easily update in the future. Nice work all. I appreciate the time you all put into creating easy to follow guides. Cheers!
Now, I want to flash my D4Ses to Anduril. I have a rookie question. Does this picture match up the same as the D4V2 flashing kit from Intl-Outdoor? D4S Flash Pic
Reflashing Kit + OTG ordered.
I don’t think so. The D4V2 flashing pads are organized in a row of 4 and a row of 2 whereas what you show for the D4S is 3+3. The pins will not match. However, you would only need to change the end part with the “needles” to convert the D4V2 kit to the D4S.
I understand that the layout is different on the light, so I plan to do my own thing for the wires from the USB to the light, but I just want to make sure the pin assignments on the top half of the picture match the D4V2 reflashing kit, so I know where to run the wires from.
I’m assuming it does. More knowledgeable members will tell for sure.
The bottom half is the pin-out on Hank's USBasp board. They look the same.