What did you mod today?

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contactcr
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:

contactcr wrote:

Bonus tip:

You can see my ridiculous haul of optics from Yajiamei. Add a bunch of shit to your cart and do the classic “order but dont pay” then send a message to them to adjust the shipping costs. Thank me later.

Thank you. It looks like I’ve always overpaid.
How much did you save?

Product Amount US $ 8.17
Shipping Cost US $ 28.95
Tax US $ 1.66
Total US $ 22.53

This was about 30 optics with about 24 unique types so it had an absurd $29 in shipping. I guess they marked the shipping down by more than half?

KawiBoy1428
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Did you fix the centering ring on this..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

maukka
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I also have the Ikea Tertial, but I use it for one of Bocian’s 4000K LED bulbs. Viltroxes are all on flexible goosenecks with spring clamps, so I can easily move them around for different purposes.

contactcr
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Bob_McBob wrote:
contactcr wrote:
I think maukka, TK, probably bob all have something similar but I decided my mobile modding station needed a bit of light and I just couldn’t fathom working on high CRI flashlights and having a low CRI desk light.

Yep, I can confirm we’re all using the Viltrox as a work light Big Smile I upgraded mine to the architect lamp style arm instead of a flex arm earlier this year and I’m much happier. Zak and I have panels installed on the arm that comes with the Ikea Tertial lamp because it’s cheap and very robust compared to a lot of ones sold separately on Amazon.

Clearly you missed the word “professional” on the box of mine… Big Smile

I saw the Ikea lamp option in my shopping around for ideas but the Ikea in my (big) city is quite a ways away and it’s a mad house inside.

Chatika vas Paus
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Did you fix the centering ring on this..

Sorry. I do not understand what you mean.
I used the butterfly pad for xm size leds.

KawiBoy1428
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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Did you fix the centering ring on this..

Sorry. I do not understand what you mean.
I used the butterfly pad for xm size leds.


2 corners of the LED are inside and it looks like the opposite corners are under the ring..enlarge/blow up the pic..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

contactcr
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Chatika vas Paus wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Did you fix the centering ring on this..

Sorry. I do not understand what you mean.
I used the butterfly pad for xm size leds.


2 corners of the LED are inside and it looks like the opposite corners are under the ring..enlarge/blow up the pic..

I see that too, might be better to just round out the inside so it can spin freely

Chatika vas Paus
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The corners are probably crushed when tightening the reflector. I had something similar in Convoy M1, also with luxeon v.

toddcshoe
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I didn’t mod a flashlight but I did change the oil on the truck today. Couldn’t find my filter wrench. Drilled a hole through the filter, put a screwdriver through the hole and loosened it that way.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

CRX
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Built a couple EDC carbon fibre spare cell carriers/ chargers.

CRX EDC Carbon Fibre 16340 Charger 700mA..

CRX EDC Carbon Fibre 16340 Charger 700mA.CRX EDC Carbon Fibre 16340 Charger 700mA..

CRX EDC Carbon Fibre 10280 Charger 140mA.CRX EDC Carbon Fibre 10280 Charger 140mA..

CRX Utility Keyring - 47's Atom XHP50.2 3v, DQG Hobi+ 365nm UV & Petrol Lighter, 1.6W 450nm Blue Laser.CRX Utility Keyring - 47's Atom XHP50.2 3v, DQG Hobi+ 365nm UV & Petrol Lighter., 1.6W 450nm Blue Laser.

DB Custom
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Hadn’t built a light in a while (weird huh?) so I put together a 17mm FET+1 and assembled an X6 from host stage with a 20mm Noctigon and Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitter. Bypassed the spring in the tail and used a large Blue spring on the driver. Straightforward enough, right? Done this dozens and dozens of times… this time the driver blinked down to moon at level 4 of 7!

So I did the mod using two 2000 resistors and got it stable, makes 1460 lumens with a GA cell. Now the typically easy reversing doesn’t work properly. Won’t work at all in the default mode and the medium press mode takes almost 4 seconds to shift it down. Have forgotten why this would be. Getting old…

chops728
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I hate those Easy Typical builds I’ve done several times—especially the ones I think are straight forward—How do they say that —If it can happen,It will happen

Figures after I posted this — I’m making some Trim for some Skylights I replaced(I have to match some trim I made 10 yrs ago) —- started looking for a Round Over router bit(I’ve used this bit 1000s of times)—looked all over in the case — I have quite a few bits—- anyway kind of had given up—then Walla found it —still in the router from the last time I used it — I hope this is the extent of my excitement today —— Facepalm Facepalm

MtnDon
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chops728 wrote:
still in the router from the last time I used it —

I have done that too. Facepalm

djozz
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DB Custom wrote:
Hadn’t built a light in a while (weird huh?) so I put together a 17mm FET+1 and assembled an X6 from host stage with a 20mm Noctigon and Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitter. Bypassed the spring in the tail and used a large Blue spring on the driver. Straightforward enough, right? Done this dozens and dozens of times… this time the driver blinked down to moon at level 4 of 7!

So I did the mod using two 2000 resistors and got it stable, makes 1460 lumens with a GA cell. Now the typically easy reversing doesn’t work properly. Won’t work at all in the default mode and the medium press mode takes almost 4 seconds to shift it down. Have forgotten why this would be. Getting old…

I know this behaviour from lighted tail and bleeder resistor, but not without those. Perhaps you intruduced a “bleeder resistor” with an unwanted tiny solder bridge between batt+ and ground? You can check if the current is unusually high at moon setting.

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Added an n52 3/4” in. 1/16” magnet to my zebralight sc64w hi. Super simple , sanded the endcap, magnet off eBay came with super thin adhesive. Peel and stick.

Emisar d1s 3a. ZL sc700d,sc64w hi,H600c,Streamlight tlr1-hl, Astrolux mfo1s 4k/purple. Olight I3t Eos black. Ylp 2m cri.

DB Custom
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Thanks Jos, will open her up and check for that. And of course, once I read that I remembered similar behavior with the bleed resistor on the early ones. Just go blank these days and the info I am trying to retrieve eludes me.

DB Custom
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No bridge, but I bet I know what I did….

Would it act like that if I put the 10 Ohm C1 in the OTC position and the 1 Ohm OTC in the C1 position?

I’ve built literally hundreds and hundreds of drivers, it’s astonishing how many times I forget what goes where. Seriously! If I don’t do it regularly I lose the info… like the girl in 50 First Dates. lol

shirnask
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contactcr wrote:
I think maukka, TK, probably bob all have something similar but I decided my mobile modding station needed a bit of light and I just couldn’t fathom working on high CRI flashlights and having a low CRI desk light.

The arm is huge, probably overkill for this size desk but if i want a really floody option I can get it real high up or use it on the opposite end of the desk, so i’ll keep the bigger swing arm. Pretty popular and affordable ~95CRI Viltrox L116T light with a (optional) DC adapter.

.

Thanks for this, I have needed to do something like this for a long time and you just made it easy

DB Custom
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So yes, I put the C1 and OTC on wrong. Just pulled both of them and replaced them with the correct new components and it works fine.

Duh!

Edit: Went ahead and bypass the blue spring on the driver with a 22ga turnigy wire, it makes 1510 lumens with either a Sanyo GA or LG MJ1 3500mAh cell.

djozz
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DBC=back to his regular schedule Cool

DB Custom
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I have actually been contemplating boxing up the table full of gear and just stepping aside, at least for the season. By next Spring if I pick it back up I’ll have to start all over again.

With some 250 lights there isn’t much chance I’ll really need a new one anytime soon…

f0xx
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DB Custom wrote:
I have actually been contemplating boxing up the table full of gear and just stepping aside, at least for the season. By next Spring if I pick it back up I’ll have to start all over again.

With some 250 lights there isn’t much chance I’ll really need a new one anytime soon…

I have several coming in the mail, and my wife just told me something to the effect of “don’t buy another flashlight.. or else!”. I may find it necessary to make myself scarce for a bit.

I’m sure you already do this, but you can spread the light to family/friends to open up the shelf space. I got that 70% off coupon for the Sofirn SC31B recently and gave the light to my mother in law (lots of points for that move, and cost less than $8). I have had several requests from family members who have seen a light or two of mine, and I feel like that list will grow. This allows me to mod, and be generous as well.

Mods I have planned for the near future (waiting on the mailman and some slow boats):

AUX board for FW3CuTi (for me)
emitter swap on D4v2 to practice for D4v2Ti in transit (D4v2 for my brother, D4v2Ti for me)
Install pogo pins on HQ programming key and flash some E07s to the latest Anduril
Jaxman E1 build (possibly for my dad)
Convoy S2+ CU triple build (TBD)

contactcr
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I’ve been slowly selling/giving stuff away until something new and exciting comes along. Sort of just hanging back waiting for the next really interesting new advancement be it LED, battery, driver or a unique host of some kind (rotary, aspheric?). We’ll see..

In any case no worries Dale, i’ll PM you and try to suck you back in when something exciting comes along Smile

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Changed the lighted switch board on my modded Emisar D4v1 with lighted switch:


This is an Emisar D4v1 with Lexel lighted bezel board, a custom-lighted switch board, and firmware update for Aux-board control from the UI.

Previously, I had modded a Kaidomain lighted switch module and used that to illuminate the switch. However, I wasn’t happy with that arrangement since it only had 2 LEDs in it and they were slightly offset to the left side. I wanted the lit area around the switch button to be a solid ring of light. I redid the switch LED board as follows:

  • The new lighted switch board involved no solder or application of heat. It is entirely handmade with all components attached with glue.
  • I started with a piece of thin sheet plastic. I cut it into a ring with a hole in the center for the switch button.
  • I then ran my super glue plastic activator pen over the plastic so super glue would stick to it.
  • I made the traces for the LEDs out of conductive ink from a conductive ink pen. You can see the ink in the picture as it is black, while the substrate plastic board is white. The ink in the pen came out far too much and lacked precision, so I used the pen to put puddles of ink onto a piece of wax paper and then dabbed a sliced toothpick into it and used the toothpick to draw the traces… one outer ring and one inner ring, with appropriate cuts at each side for the positive and negative wires.
  • I then installed the LEDs. These are 0603 blue leds. Hand-placed with tweezers so that each contact pad of the LED touches a different ring. The LEDs were glued in place with Fiberfix optical super glue (cures instantly when blue light shined on it). For ease of use, I mounted the entire board on a piece of double-sided tape on my work area before installing the LEDs.
  • After each LED was glued, I used a cut toothpick to dab on conductive ink on each contact to give a good electrical connection.
  • The base of each bondwire where it touches the inside edge of the board is glued, leaving the tip of the wire bare. Then I liberally slathered the exposed tips of the wires with conductive ink going to the traces.
  • Initially, I started with 11 LEDs and 2 resistors on the left side of the board. The picture above without the cover on shows this version. However, I later decided that wasn’t bright enough and I wanted a more complete ring. I removed the 2 resistors and replaced them with LEDs. I already had a resistor between the MCU and one of the bondwires so the extra resistors on the switch board were not needed. I also added another LED on the bottom arc right side bringing the total to 14 LEDs.
  • The switch cover is the same style as what I’d previously used. Silicone sheet with a small post on the bottom and a metal disk on the top. All glued with Fiberfix with plastic super-glue activator. The retaining ring is a filed down nickel-plated brass finished washer and is glued the same way.
  • The light still needs a polish and wax and the silver-colored epoxy around the base of the retaining ring could use a bit of touch-up, but overall I’m pleased with how it came out. The body tube and stainless steel bezel are from a D4V2. The head, body tube and tailcap are aluminum with anodizing removed.

DB Custom
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You would wouldn’t you C? Lol

Truthfully, I’ve been shooting all the flashlight money! Blushing

djozz
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Nice conceptional work again Fl2! With a classy result!

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Dang , that’s really nice , Firelight2 . Nice job . Thumbs Up

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For once I have to agree with a couple of members comments here Firelight2. Nice work. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

djozz
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Finally finished my own 18650 lantern mod. I have no build thread, and I can not recommend anyone making it precisely as I did because it involved so many little customisations and part-making (nothing special but too many to count) that taking a different approach would be highly recommended.

Description: I use an old Supfire A6-T6 as a host. The light comes from a 2000K Nichia E21A driven by a 3×7135 biscotti driver. The optic came from a Philips household bulb. The bezel was heavily adapted, an aluminium ring was made to clamp the optic and attach the roof to, the ledboard was raised with an extra copper spacer, and a sturdy roof was constructed, to protect the plastic optic, but more for aestetics.

It is hopelessly inefficient, at max I measure 1.05A and just 80 lumen, that is only 19 lm/W. For comparison, just yesterday I measured the BLF-LT1 in warmest 2600K setting at 43 lm/W. I think the main reason is the ultrawarm 2000K 90CRI led, but the optic may be less efficient than the LT1 optic too.

Still, it will have high practical use, as a night light for my son (at 25mA/140hrs runtime) when not at home, and when camping 80 lumen is plenty, normal use when sitting in front of the tent will even be lower (we hardly travel by car, the BLF lantern will in most occasions be too large to take with us).

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djozz Love
Din 580 eye bolt, most pretty looking thing you can attach to the flashlight ever.

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