Sofirn C01R deep red [sold out, discontinued]

That's very unlikely to happen as Sofirn told me they had difficulties sourcing Nichia LEDs from their supplier(s). They didn't even get any XP-G3 deep red.

Barry asked me for more details, i.e. do you have a picture that easily describes/shows which parts become loose? He said that BLF edition of C01S was not glued for DYI purposes. Has this problem also occured on standard C01S (black, red, blue) models?

Update: Barry just told me he will check with the factory to ensure that future batches will be glued better. It seems some samples did not have enough glue. It's very difficult to use the right amount of glue. If it's too less, the head becomes loose, if it's too much, the glue will spill all over the threads.

The standard head compartement is also not glued. Thanks for that! :smiley:

Imagine what happens when you lose the optics part (on the left) and have the LED left in the body.

By the way, I will start a poll on BLF asking people to vote if they want future batches of C01S/C01R with two modes (10lm, 100lm) or with three modes (1lm, 10lm, 100lm). Personally, I have a good feeling that many customers would appreciate a sublumen-mode (0.5 - 1lm) for using in full darkness with adapted eyes.

That would be nice…

Terrible. Three twists to get what the i3E delivers with one twist: Usable light :weary:

Well, maybe there's a chance for a programmable driver...like:

8 twists to change mode order

low - med - high (default)

high - med - low

That would be nice!

Sublumen-mode would be great!!!

Interested in one deep red version.

Please put me on the list for the second one.

Good news: Sofirn has received 20 samples of the XP-E2 deep red (660nm) with the bin code XPEBPR-L1-P20-30-B-01 from Cree. Engineering is now starting to build a prototype.

I also asked them to try making the C01S driver programmable with reversible mode order. They said it was possible (3 modes, 2 mode groups). We need to wait and see if there's any sense in having three modes on C01R as deep red tint probably needs 2 modes (low and high) only. But it could be useful for the brigher, more performing versions, e.g. with SST-20. The bad news is that prices are expected to increase with a more sophisticated driver and more LED options. However, this will all be reflected in the poll I am going to create later on.

Easy solution: 9 twists to change both mode layers from lo-mid-hi and hi-mid-lo to mid-hi and hi-mid.

No offense, but I'd rather keep things simple (and reasonable in terms of costs, too). While I do appreciate a high grade of customization on big lights like LT1 or SP36, I'd recommend not overstraining customers on small keychain lights that will mostly be used in one mode-configuration forever. ;-)

That wasn’t offensive, Thomas. All good, just made a proposal. Will shut up now :wink: .

If 3 modes are made, I think that deep red lovers could be interested in a very low mode. So 0.1–5–100%
Not sure though, it is not 100% my type of flashlight.

In general it would be nice if a (mode order) programmable driver is made for the C01S, not just for the red version.

Agreed

No worries, it's all good. :-) Your suggestions are always appreciated.

The poll is live: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72855

Everyone is highly encouraged to vote.

I’m interested, one 625m and one 660nm.

I haven’t experienced this myself, as I only have one C01 variant, and it’s not my EDC.
… but …
I view glue as one of those things that is easier to add than to remove. While it’s true that most will never have a reason to open the head, this IS BLF and access is important.

If they do wind up gluing things into place, can it at least be a low to medium heat-released type of threadlocker?

The problem is a small design flaw: the battery tube and the bezel share the same pill-threading, tighten the bezel too much and the battery tube will not have enough threads leftover to reach the driver. They should have made the pill a tiny bit higher (and risk a larger gap between head and battery tube) or create a hard stop for the bezel. Or screw down the bezel medium tight with a drop of glue in the threads. I agree that weak glue should be sufficient.