Iāll openly admit to being a minor snob in this realm. Layered .ai, .psd or for low-budgets like me, .odg are the gold standards.
That saidā¦.
Something lossless like PNG is perfectly fine.
Better if you can incorporate transparency from the beginning.
As a general guideline, think of the biggest application you can for the final graphic, then make it no less than 4 times bigger. Little mistakes and oddities can get hidden when you scale an image down. They get magnified when you scale it up.
SVG is the de facto standard for vector graphics that is most often used in the web for scalable graphics, for publishing, printing and laser cutters. All professional programs should be able to work with it. I use Inkscape, but you can view it with a web browser.
Didnāt take that long, maybe 15 minutes. Tomorrow I will have a look at your other version and play with the metrics a little bit as well.
Not to be contrarian, but I rather like the simple, lightly formatted text feel of the board. Not to mention that adding images increases bandwidth needs.
That said, I think it needs more flame.
Something like these quality babies. If I can find one more, Iāll be able to run my SP36 at full power for DAYS.
What did you draw that logo in? do you have the .ai? or native artwork file? or perhaps you can save it as .pdf with line weight = 0?
Working for a manufacturing company, we waterjet really anything. I can convert raster to vector pretty accurately, but need a good artifact free file to start with. We do a ton of environmental graphics for true sign companyāsā¦some very hi end, stadiums, lifestyle centers, etc.
I can help in a few different ways, converting your image to vector for cutting/plotting, and if interested can cut logos/emblems/artāwhatever you wantāin aluminum, stainless, titanium, carbon steel, tool steel, acrylic, foam, etcā¦
Just like the rest of you guysā¦love flashlights more than your average Joe, and have really enjoyed my time in this BLF community, would love to help if needs.
For cutting these, are we talking positive or negative? Positive = Black is the part, and would need connection points between entities to hold it all together. Negative = we need to make a border around the image and the Black drops away, the only geometry that needs to change would be the ādropsā from the āBā. They need to be connected in some way, else the whole head of the light (and thus the āBā) drop out. See the font āStencilā (among many others) for an idea of how we traditionally connect interior drops when cutting negatives and not using a backer to place the letter drops.
Personally, just looking at the images, this appears a positive to me all day, especially for use as keychain/bottle opener, etc. However used as we see in the OPās parent image it would be a negative with a rectangular border that gets edge lit sitting in the LED tray witnessed. Since Iām not routing (only waterjets here), we can only cut all the way through or not at all. There is no way to stop 60-90,000PSI in a depth capacity, this is where Iād have to alter geometry to connect entities in some fashion, which for better or worse would alter the look of the image.
Let me know what you guys think, happy to help. If this is small scale enough I can cut rems we have here at no charge and ship collect.