USB-C power bricks don’t provide any power unless they see a special resistance pattern from the powered device.
A power consuming device tells the power source to provide basic USB power when USB-C lines CC1 and/or CC2 are connected to ground through a 5.1k Ohm resistor. (if you connect both lines, each one needs it’s own resistor)
There are two workrounds, not including using a USB-A power source.
1- Use a C to A adapter, and plug the lantern’s A to C cable into that.
2- Open the lantern and remove the driver board. Attach a 5.1k Ohm resistor between ground and one or both CC1/CC2 lines on the back of the lantern’s USB port. If you connect both, you must use one resistor for each line, You cannot piggyback both CC1 and CC2 onto one resistor and expect it to work.
Note: I’ve seen some references to the Raspberry Pi 4 folks only connecting one of the CC lines and that being enough to get power from a USB-C power source. The ‘proper’ answer seems to be using two resistors and connecting both lines. I can’t tell you if one line will work with your cable and power brick, which single line will or will not work, or if it will only work with one side of the USB-C cable up, or if it will turn your lantern into an invisible pink unicorn.
This is purely a DIY, proceed at your own risk situation.
I have plenty of resistors on hand. I’ll probably post pics of what did (or did not) work for me once I get a lantern to work on. Odds are someone else will beat me to it though.
So to be clear, the USB-C issue isn’t a potentially hazardous/destructive one like in some other recent USB-C lights? Just that it won’t charge with a C-to-C cable?
The main issue here is people thought the USB-C port was chosen for wide compatibility hence they expected it to be correctly integrated.
Wrong….
The USB-C port was chosen over the Micro USB for DURABILITY and reversible plugging, and the only thing that’s changed is that now instead of using a micro usb cable to charge, you’d have to use a USB A to C cable to charge.
I use a type-c to type-c in my car to charge the phone but i have tons of type-A (the fat end) to type c in the house so this would not have been an issue.
I suppose i can see some the issue in a one wire only setting. i have a type c powerbank and in order to charge my type-c items fast i use a type c to type c cable so it uses power delivery (pd) to negotiate a high charge rate. Sometimes i go camping and only take that cable so i can charge, phones, laptop, gopro etc so maybe in that very specific scenario i would not be able to charge. But if they are fixing it anyway im super happy.
Finally! A place I can come and vent about how this lantern doesn’t provide all the features that are included in the USB C spec. I’m mostly upset that MHL, Display port, and HDMI aren’t implemented correctly… I wanted to hook this sucker up to a projector! Forget about storing photos on it as well, it doesn’t appear that they managed to get that working.
It seems that if I use the included cable it will only work with most of the USB ports in my home, car, and office.
I have a bunch of USB-C devices and don’t even have a C-to-C cord yet lol. All of them have included C-to-A cables, so I wonder how many consumer devices are actually following the standard?
C is becoming very common in the US and the more sturdy connectors that aren’t uni-directional are a HUGE benefit and easily reason enough to not have micro-USB the way I see it.
Thanks for all of the info! Unfortunate that they implemented USB-C charging incorrectly, but honestly most devices implement it incorrectly so I think most people are used to that!
I think some manufacturers default to USB A to C for compatibility reasons. Many people have plenty of chargers and computers with USB A ports. The device itself could still support USB PD properly. And yes I know the obvious answer would be to just include both types of cables.
Thank you Lux-Perpetua, great diagram. I’m sure there are still some people who will whine about their USB-C purity but I simply cannot comprehend how this is a dealbreaking issue when the workaround is so damn simple.
Exactly. The LT1 was not designed, or intended to have the “fast-charging” high amp protocol, we only went with the USB-C type port for the durability and the fact that it can plug in in any direction. (easier in the dark) The LT1 is set to be charged at either the 1.5 amp default or set to a 0.75 amp charge rate to allow the ability to charge from weaker, low-amp power sources such as small Solar chargers, small power banks, lower power car & RV USB power ports, and so on. Unlike a phone, there is absolutely no reason that the LT1 needs a 3+ amp charge rate. even at the 0.75 amp setting there is plenty of time in a day to charge it when its not in use, also for the added benefit of longer cell life when being used in off grid situations where the lantern will be used every night & charged every day possibly, (365 days a year)
