If I do it it will probably be MTN-10DD because it runs BLF UI and compared to other options (like having someone build a wight driver for me) - cheap.
Any suggestions on a good source of 90+ CRI XPL emitters? I have another one thats stock stillā¦
I may give modifying mine a try. I have the same question, no idea where to get high CRI emitters.
I do have access to a rework station and I figure that will be best for changing the emitter.
where to get high CRI emitters.
219b will fit the stock mcpcb
available from azhu in the wts section
Im a pink tint snob.
I love the 219b
.
sw45k it is my favorite,
most people like the sw40,
I do not like the sw35 much,
sw30 yes please, when I want juicy warm
I find xp-l overly yellow/green (above the bbl, aka positive duv)
I donāt really like pink/red/orange. I prefer a neutral white but I guess those are not high CRI? It seems I need to go with 4000K or so?
Most of my lights are cool white so Iām just used to it. My Surefire T1A is too blue if that helps.
I donāt really like pink/red/orange. I prefer a neutral white but I guess those are not high CRI? It seems I need to go with 4000K or so?
Most of my lights are cool white so Iām just used to it. My Surefire T1A is too blue if that helps.
Neutral White can be Low CRI or it can be High CRI
4000k is part of Neutral White range.
Cool white lights are almost never High CRI.
This is a complex subject, involving multiple variables including Color Temperature, Tint, and CRI.
yes a 4000k 219b would be a good place to start. They are Neutral White, with pink tint, and High CRI.
Whether you notice the pink tint depends on the time of day. At night you wont see it, during the day you might. This is a complex subject involving the White Balance of your brain, in response to ambient light color temperature.
welcome to the exploration
here are a few photos to help you see color temperature differences
these are all High CRI (warm, neutral, and cool whites)
these are all High CRI Neutral White (but different Tints)
I could go on, but this may not be the right thread for it. If you search my posts you will find many many photos, as Ive spent a lot of time comparing LEDs.
enjoy the process of discovering what LEDs you like.
Continuing the conversation here: My first dive in to light modification (hardware and firmware)
Sorry about dragging the thread off-topic
My favorite aaa is the original Foursevens Preon 1, with an added clicky. It is 3 1/4ā long, 1/2ā wide, titanium with a red aluminum body. It will run on a 10440, putting out ~ 360 lumens on high. I have carried it for ten years and though I am always looking I have never found one better. I expect it will be in my pocket until death do us part.
Honestly I donāt use any of my aaa enough to recommend. If I was to get another I would look for neutral tint and enough efficiency for very long runtime.
My favorite aaa is the original Foursevens Preon 1, with an added clicky. It is 3 1/4ā long, 1/2ā wide, titanium with a red aluminum body. It will run on a 10440, putting out ~ 360 lumens on high. I have carried it for ten years and though I am always looking I have never found one better. I expect it will be in my pocket until death do us part.
+1
I still donāt get why thereās no titanium Tool with the regular oneās clicky. Itās so good!
The titanium 2.0 AA version has a regular clicky. Iām actually a big fan of the e-switch. Itās unique and works well for me.
Maratac Cu AAA Rev.2 circa summer 2012. Two perfect modes: dim (~1.5 lum.) and ābright enoughā ~70 lumens. Perfect regulation and near-class leading efficiency.
Manufacturers have pushed AAA drivers too hard the past 6 years or so IMO, and efficiency has taken a back seat to peak output.
My favorite aaa is the original Foursevens Preon 1, with an added clickyā¦I have never found one better.
Good to know, I have a barely used red one with added clicky. Might be worth buying some new 10440s for.
Disappointment there isnāt any lower than 4000k. I will mod my aaa lights with sst20 2700k by myself.
For Aesthetics.
Beam colour and feel in hand. x 200% on most others.
The Astrolux AO1 219B or c.
For ugliness and wierd shape. The Tool AAA.
End switch. Twisty and end cap circuit breaker??.
Nicely Bright.
but a wierd blend of multiple controlsā¦
For Just being my fav Small Copper light,
My OāLight i3T EOS Copper.
Weighty. Great Shape and beautiful blended copper shades.
NOT Ć³rrible and shiny bright. Yukā¦
With my Jetbeam Jet-1 MK Pro,
Still being the fav of my AAās.
I really like the Wuben E01. Itās what I always EDC regardless if I have an 18650 light with me. No memory, always starts on low. Only thing I hate about it is 2 quick taps goes to SOS mode so you canāt change modes very quickly. Itās basically a Tool AAA with a different UI. It really needs a dc fix though even with an emitter swap IMHO.
My favorite host is the Cu Tool
My favorite LED during the day is the sw45k on the right
At night my favorite is the 3500k E21a on the left
I spent a lot of time with 219b 4000k, in the middle, but now I dont use it and prefer the other two
Agree with the BLF 348 in 219b. Plus 2 x Singfire.
Same light but Cree ledās. Colder white.
Still nice though.
Hey.
They ALL nice.
My favorite host is the Cu Tool
Nice :+1:
1. Lumintop IYP07
2. Manker e02
3. Reylight mini Pineapple Gen.1
ah so sorry. The first two digits are minutes.
So the EDC01 can run longer at higher brightness compared to C01S?