It will come back at some point
To get over it I repaired my Maratac AAA Copper. It had a 4000K 80CRI XP-L2 on a 10mm Sinkpad and a Mtn direct driver with guppy UI which was wonderful, but I never did the ledboard soldering right so eventually a joint came loose. Now I used a better DTP board (from vestureofblood) and a 3000K 90CRI LH351D (got it from member contactcr), and renewed the ledwires, did a much cleaner job now. I’m not sure if I like it better than the XP-L2, but it works again and will keep working this time
I have experienced it a few months ago when trying to swap the led, ended up with damage reflector, LED gasket, and glass.
I then contacted Lumintop Aliexpress to ask if I could buy the parts only, and they said yes! Just say what you need and they will sell it for you. Hope this helps to rebuild your Tool AA again.
If you can’t get a reflector from LT, send me a PM.
Also, if you want to use a nice TIR, here is the pebbled TIR I am using in the Tool AA from Henk4U2 with the Luxeon V2 3000K.
I put four optisolis on an XHP70 mcpcb. The terminals needed to be widened. Its the hardest reflow I’ve done yet so I’m proud of it, even its solder blobs.
What gauge wire should i buy to bridge these and the VR16sp4?
Is that blue stuff also under the board, to electrically insulate the ledboard from the pill (which is ground)? I’m not sure how hard you will drive the leds, but over say an amp you may run into thermal transfer problems through that thick layer.
Yesterday I finished modding my old Jacob A60 clone with a CSLNM1.TG (white flat 1mm) driven by 12x7135 nanjg and a forward clicky. Possibly going to air wire the driver so that I can have a star configurable single mode. I’m seeing a consistent 235kcd with this setup. Reflector tuning on this light is notoriously finicky, and I get to choose between beam artifacts and losing ~15kcd when swapping between different centering rings (clear vs white). Right now I chose having the artifacts. Pretty crazy the throw to size/weight ratio here.
Before installing the driver, I was running it direct drive off an old LG E1 with elevated internal resistance. Charged to 4.35V I would see 5.4A max (where I saw 250kcd turn-on) and it would stabilize at 4.4-4.8A for a long time actually. I feel now that I’m running the 7135s, there is a noticeable increase in heat generation.
EDIT: The Osram replaced an old XPE2 R4? dedomed running 2.3A direct drive from on old Sanyo UR laptop pull. That setup did 150kcd turn-on, ~140 after settling in.
Fell 3 inches and removed everything It’s a Manker E02. I was successful and reflowed a new LED but it was misaligned and reheated it. I should have just taken the victory.
Anyone have any ideas how I can start fixing this? Most of the parts need to be reattached to the back(between the MCPCB and copper heatsink).
I have a Manker E02 in pieces too (not as many as you but still…) Whoever suggested that it is an ok light to mod: I find it hard and gave up for the time being.
It would be an easy fix though but the components under the MCPCB makes it very challenging. I’m giving up as well, it’s not something my skills, tools and patience can handle right now. I’ll stick to swapping LEDs on noctigon stars. :person_facepalming:
Figured out along time ago…take notes and pic’s first and during the process just in case…(specially when u disassemble and are waiting on parts from around the world)
. TM36/SBT-90.2 build… in progress going on a couple months now… 4 intricately assembled levels had to be removed to empty the host, then reassembled to play with the driver outside the light, only to find out it will not produce the current I want… :cry:
For use with L4P drivers, that’s why they have pads for MOSFET and thermistor. But they work just as well with any other driver, you just have to solder-bridge the MOSFET pads.