i meant using s2 clip on d10, it will shine forward, you can clip it on either side, button up or down, but the light will always shine forward
yes it is a cosmetic issue only.
if you want to use it on your backpack, you can also attach second holder to the sling, and snap the light in, out in half a second, very easy, do it even 1000 times no damage to anodizing from plastic holder, now stock extra holders are impossible to get separately, but you can easy 3d print one, there are few designs available, gchart designed 3 and i designed 1, i also designed a holder for zl that works like d10 holder. designs are tested and they work,
also if you taking it backpacking, camping, there is always a chance you lose it, it can happen to any light, d10 is very cheap for the price of 1 h02-3 you can get 3 or 4 d10.
also keep this in mind, h02, zl…. you can get in neutral even warm white, d10 afaik only available in cool white. if that matters to you, d10 may not be your light, it is easy to replace leds, but you have to have parts, and skills,
Loosen up the strap fully and wear it loosely around your neck . It's the most comfortable way to wear any headlamp . keeping the light under your chin keeps glare out of your eyes and looks about 10 times less dooffy. it's how all the cool kids are running their lights these days . Add a piece of diffuser film instead of messing with TIR optics .
I have had about 6 of these lights and it gets more play than 95% of my other lights . IMHO it's a great light to gift . To a nonaholic it's bright as hell ...it's rechargeable ..it has that weird Samsung battery in it. what's not to love . A headlamp is a "Must Have" light . I suggest the ...Manker if its still on sale 12~17$ the D-10 boruit ..The D-10 Nitecore :), the skilhunt h03 ,the armytek and a "used" zebralight...in that order . shut up and buy it !
Newb question:
I unscrewed the driver cap, wanted to remove the driver just to learn how to do it before I purchase a replacement.
Now…how do I take the driver off? I tried gently pushing from the inside, no effect.
I tried pulling from the outside, the outer PCB moves a bit but does not come out.
May I get help with that?
First you have to unsolder LED wires and then from inside push out driver-charger sandwich
I see. Thanks. 
En even newbier question. What is the difference between “driver” and “MCPCB” ?
The MCPCB is the metal plate the led sits on top of and is soldered on to. Has 2 contacts with wires going into it.
Driver is the circuit board that has all the electronic bits that controls the current and voltage to the led, and also has a microcontroller that gives you modes.
My D10 now features CRI95 SST-20 3000K on a lightweight MOSLED MCPCB.
$10 flashlight,$.20 TIR lens, ~$.50 MCPCB, spare LED. Not bad so far. Budget? Definitely.
But I’d like to try some other TIRs and have $50 order from Yajiamei on the way….
Stock driver? 
Never thought it will end up like this
So far yes. I’m thinking about it. 
But I need to have the firmware ready before I do the swap. Which is not a priority for me now.
The Quadrupel driver adds a nice indicator to the button.
Also, I’ve heard of product “fade” but have never seen it. This newer version feels cheaper than the previous one I owned.
The anodizing and actual aluminum feel different. Not a huge deal, just surprising. Driver and charging circuit looked the same, same light, just…different.
Still rocks for the price! Thinking about using this one on my bicycle. (and if TomTom is reading, yes, I’ll put a little hood on it to keep it from “dazzling” drivers)
edit: forgot to add the the MCPCB shelf had a crazy texture like milling marks and there’s no way this thing is making great contact with the board.
also if replacing the driver try to dig up some teflon insulated wire to replace the originals with. Teflon because it will endure the heat of reconnecting them multiple times if you decide to experiment with different emitters.
And guess how the manufacctuer figures out that an improvement might be a popular sales item. It’s not like they have their own QA/QC/design staff hard at work.
Say what? How do you get that indicator lamp, I don’t see it documented as built into the headlamp.
I don’t know what a “Quadrupel driver” is and Google isn’t helping.
- high CRI LED
- TIR optics
Additional manufacturing cost maybe $1? And increase the price from $10 to $12?
- USB-C instead of micro-USB (add $1 ?)
But it is true that an amazing product at $13 could sell less than a way-less-perfect-but-usable product at $10. We live in a world where most people buy $1000+ phone every year or two. But would nick-pick for a few dollars on a flashlight.
Thanks for taking care of that alpg88!
The indicator has 4 possible states for both OFF and STANDBY: Off, Low, High, and Blinking.
Battery check on the Darkhorse is similar to ZL, 4 clicks.
Despite the rough emitter board shelf; the copper board and an even covering of thermal paste transfer the heat good enough. Body warms up on full output.