My D4v2 can maintain even 30seconds of turbo on fresh 30Q, there is no dropping like a rocket.
I'm fairly sure that it doesn't (I have a D4V2 too). You might not see the change with your eyes though, e.g. 3000 and 1500 lumens looks pretty much the same esp. if you just looked at 3000 lumens.
My D4 drops within 7 seconds, but that’s because I put quad Luxeon V in it… 5000 lumens at start-up is spectacular though!
I should check it out with the meter, how much it actually drops and how fast.
However “dropping like a rocket” means dropping clearly visible to me. Can something dropping like a rocket mean something subtle?
My XPL-HI 5D stays on turbo with fresh batteries for easily over 30 seconds…
I found similar results when comparing XP-G2 to XP-L HI in the original D4. In a quad, XP-G2 made more lumens per Amp when the total output was about 3000 lm or below, while XP-L HI made more lumens per Amp at about 3000 lm and above.
I’m guessing a similar effect shows up when comparing 4x to 8x, since the total power per LED is lower. Instead of 5A each (20A/4), it might be 3.75A each (30A/8), or something along those lines. This would give more of an advantage to LEDs which are relatively more efficient at lower power levels.
Also, LEDs with lower Vf tend to perform better when a bunch are used with a single battery, because lower Vf allows the battery to push out more power. It might be 30A for XP-L and 35A for SST-20, due to differences in voltage.
About how fast it drops from turbo, a lot of that depends on the temperature the light started at, the type and condition of the battery, the LED type, the ambient temperature, and even how clean the electrical contacts are. Also depends on the firmware version and the thermal configuration.
When used at approximately room temperature though, the overall time for a light the size of a D4 or KR4 to reach a sustainable brightness can be from about 10 to 60 seconds after a cold start from turbo.
I think the elements in the time of direct exit are of great importance. If D4 consumes more than 17A in Turbo from VTC5 or 6, then I do not think that Q30 can provide this. Especially considering the issue of originality of batteries from China.
I.e; not being able to give a high current and drawdown of an element for voltage increases the Turbo time. Of course with a lower lumen output …
Can the tritium tailcaps be purchased seperately if we have already ordered and the light has shipped?
+1
I ordered a “yellow” tritium button and tried adding a non-tritium cap to my order but Hank said he was not selling them separate. Perhaps not enough spares?
Is the D4V2 mule version equipped with the driver from the KR4 (regulated up to 5A) or with the D4V2 driver?
Sorry for my bad english, it’s my second language
regards,
My blue KR4 arrived today.
My initial impressions:
- as expected, this light is very bright
- slightly bigger and heavier than an Emisar D4
- switch seems fine. Better than in the FW3A requiring a bit more pressure and I think a bit more travel distance.
- light worked out-of-the-box with no fiddling. The spring at the front providing pressure to the switch sleeve is a nice improvement over the FW3A.
- A expected, the anodizing is gritty. This is intentional as it provides better grip. However, the downside is it doesn’t feel very good in your hand if you have dry skin.
- The fluted portion of the body tube (both 18650 and 1835) has subtle knurling on it. This is composed of very small and uniform rings that encircle the light. This provides good grip when pulling the light out of the pocket with a cigar grip.
My grey KR4 SST-20 4000k arrived today.
It’s in this mode where clicking (once) does nothing, clicking & holding strobes while ramping up then stays solid and ramps down quickly. still holding, the aux leds light green.
Let go of the button and aux leds off. I tried factory resetting since I’m not sure what mode this is or where I am in the UI but it didn’t work, just started strobing as soon as the battery was connected.
Anyone know what this mode is or how to get out?
You guys do understand that the first to have a new flashlight model arrive have picture-duty? 
As soon as I can figure out how to have the pretty aux lights on I will post some more 
Did most people go for boring grey? Seems like it. 
I have a question regarding your grey KR4: What is the anodizing texture? … is it rough like sandpaper? or is it smooth like the grey Emisar D4 and D4v2?
Everything feels smooth, except the barrel middle part that has all the lines in it
Good to know. Sounds like the grey anodizing is smooth texture like an FW3A or D4v2.
The blue anodizing is rough. Feels like smooth sandpaper or a piece of chalk. I expected this as the blue D4 was the same.