What did you mod today?

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xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:
My … 219B emitter is R9050 sw30. So it’s probably a touch warmer.

I like the SW30 9050 a lot.
It looks better to me than the 9080 in these single samples
they are very close, and things that affect the difference includes, how bright the light is, the type of reflector, and variations between LEDs.

I have not seen anything to suggest to me, in actual use, that the sw30 9080 is “better”. I think the variation between LEDs is a more dominant factor, than the CRI R9 of 50 vs 80

I was surprised. I expected the 9080 to kick ass and take no prisoners, but honestly, I would be just as happy, or happier, with the 9050, in this particular comparison.

the control shot surprised me (LEDs are not even close to sunlight, even at 9080):

I take it in the top photo above, you meant “9080” for the label on the right. But they do look very close. The other thing about a control shot… is the angle of the sun. High noon versus horizon will yield different tints (neutral white vs. warm). But you’re right that there is also the matter of context subjectivity (the color of the object, its light reflectivity/absorption, and environment).

It’ll be interesting to see what emitter bins come down the road in the future. Imagine having 219B 9080 sw30 output tint at 50% greater efficiency!

Unheard
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Jon, are your images taken with AWB? I guess at least the beamshots where taken with a fixed WB at around 5000K, right?

Marc E
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Rayoui wrote:
I put a royal blue G3 in a C8 just for funsies.

Nice! One step closer to a lightsaber.
Unheard
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Jet-II Ti Anni-Edition. Just arrived, has several flaws, but still … I hate CW.

Very little contact surface

Heating. The solder melted around 190 °C. Means that’s leaded solder?

Nichia 219B sw45K D220

Looks ok to me

The beam pattern … well …

Nice color Smile

mbp
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I hope nobody minds if I ask here but is there anyone who would be interested in doing a mod on commission? I have an Acebeam EC35 II, Nichia 219C edition, I was tinkering with the reflector/centering ring trying to fix the donut hole and somehow the LED popped off. Not sure if it wasn’t soldered all that well, the LED diode came off the pad so I think it’s toast. I do have a spare XP-L HI 3D LED to swap in. My hands are just not steady enough to work on small electronics anymore. Acebeam said they’d fix it but I have to ship back to China; reliable shipping would cost more than the light is worth.

Again hope nobody minds me asking on this thread, thought I might make my own post but didn’t want to add clutter. Feel free to PM or reply with your price if you’re interested.

gchart
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mbp wrote:
I hope nobody minds if I ask here…

PM incoming
jon_slider
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Installed sw45k into Hanko D10 Ti for a friend. What a stunning piece of machine work. The threads are like butter, the finish work is amazing.

nick779
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Someday ill need to take a stab at reflowing. Im just not comfortable with it.

sungar
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I’m lurking here a lot, but I’ve never put my mod here before as I don’t think they are worth mentioning.
However I’ve updated my Emisar D4S with FET+8+1 recently and found some weird/interesting behavior of AMC7135s.

Driver is running Anduril. This is crucial information for the story as some AMCs have problem with ramping on low PWM levels. I know that 7135 are different and the ones with claw logo shall be the best for flashlights. Well it depends…

I have bought few AMCs from different aliexpress shops in search for “claws”. Finally found some with number 1937. This is different from the ones that were used on original D4S driver. Emisar driver is using ones with number 1744. I have also “boats” with symbol 35R.
Assuming that boats are worse than claws I have put them on rev 1.1 of my driver (green from JLCPCB) and flashed it. Only issue with it was that boat need higher PWM level to start working and on floor ramp set to 1 it did not lighten LEDs at all. It was easy to fix by setting floor to 3 in Anduril.
Claws were saved for the rev 1.2 driver that I’ve ordered from OSHPark. The main difference between v1.1 and v1.2 is 1×7135 placement. I’ve moved it to have it on front side if I decide to have single-sided driver with FET+3+1. Logically it is still the same driver. After putting driver together and loading same software I noticed weird behavior. Those AMCs did not require same PWM level to work as boats, but I think that problem with 1937 is much bigger then with boats. Basically they do not behave consistent to PWM levels. I mean on lower PWM they are providing enough current to lighten LEDs, but when ramping we are expecting more and more current to run trough them. Nope, 1937 are not working this way. There is a dip in output current somewhere between ramp level 10 and 20. This is really disturbing as during ramping I could see power raising and suddenly LEDs were on lower level again for the moment. Same was observed when second N-channel was attached. To mitigate the problem ramp configuration would need to be changed to start at about level 20 so it is even worse than with boats.
What I’ve actually did to solve problem was replace N-channel with boats and use AMC 1744 from D4S driver for 1×7135. With this setup I’m not able to see any jumps during ramping.

I think 1937 can be seen in this chart from one of aliexpress user:

Here are some pictures of my drivers:

jon_slider
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nick779 wrote:
Someday ill need to take a stab at reflowing. Im just not comfortable with it.

I felt the same. The turning point for me was this hotplate (pic is a link)

e1000
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Mine’s still working like a champ!

jon_slider wrote:
nick779 wrote:
Someday ill need to take a stab at reflowing. Im just not comfortable with it.

I felt the same. The turning point for me was this hotplate (pic is a link)

Unheard
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So much nicer than my frying pan. I touch the rim nearly every time Facepalm

Tom E
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I got the same hotplate, but the heat up time is slowwwwwwww, like really slowwwwwww. I use it for drivers/PCB's as well but only for lower heat (~100C) below - still use a hot air gun on the PCB's from above.

e1000
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Tom E wrote:

I got the same hotplate, but the heat up time is slowwwwwwww, like really slowwwwwww. I use it for drivers/PCB’s as well but only for lower heat (~100C) below – still use a hot air gun on the PCB’s from above.

For the 946-1010? Like several hours slow, and even then it doesn’t get up past 180C?

If so you might have mistakenly got the 220v version instead of the 110v. They are physically and cosmetically exactly the same.

jon_slider
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My 10×10 110v hotplate takes 16 minutes to reach 200C

so I turn it on when I start to take a light apart, and by the time I have the mcpcb out, the hotplate is ready.. Im sloooooowwwww .. lol

Tom E
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Hhmm, I don't think it's hours and think it can go higher. Mine looks exactly the same as the one pictured above, which says UY-D220V on the front, but came with a 120V power cord.

16 mins? Hhmm, sounds faster than mine, boy, I gotta check.

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Tom E wrote:
Mine looks exactly the same as the one pictured above

click this link to share your results:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1554026#comment-1554026
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I use a butane torch to heat the MCPCB from below but I don’t apply the flame directly. I hold the torch 10-15cm away to heat it more gently and it typically takes 60-90 seconds before the solder melts and the LED centers itself. I usually tin the pads for the leads so I can see when the solder melts and immediately remove the heat. After it melts, a quick, gentle tap on top of the LED with a swab squeezes any excess solder out and its done.

I’ve had great success with this method on everything from E21a to SBT90.2. I’ve even reflowed the same emitter multiple times without any measurable (ceiling bounce) reduction in performance, which is acceptable to me. I’ve thought about trying the frying pan method or getting a hot plate, but since the $10 torch has served me well I continue to use it.

gchart
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I use a household hot plate. It’s rudimentary, but it’s step up from the skillet I started with.

Temperature control is just a number dial so I use an IR temp gun to make sure it’s in the right arena. Really quick to heat up, cheap, and widely available.

nick779
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gchart wrote:
I use a household hot plate. It’s rudimentary, but it’s step up from the skillet I started with.

Temperature control is just a number dial so I use an IR temp gun to make sure it’s in the right arena. Really quick to heat up, cheap, and widely available.

I might have to give that a shot. I think I have some spare MCPCBs I can practice on. Are there any preferred US retailers or overseas dealers that sell bare emitters besides Mtn? Looking to get some emitters in 2-3 weeks.

Specifically looking for anything I could swap into an XP-L2 MCPCB for my Wuben E05. The MCPCB is ~1mm thick and I believe the LED4Power/Mtn boards are 1.5mm.

gchart
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Off the top of my head…

International:

  • Kaidomain
  • Fasttech
  • AliExpress (Convoy, etc)
  • Led4Power
  • Intl Outdoor (Hank)
  • Cutter
  • Virence (Nichia!)

US / Canada:

  • Mtn Electronics
  • Illumn
  • Arrow
  • Digikey
  • Mouser (they have $3.49 economy shipping once you sign in)
  • BLF: azhu (Nichia 219B, a few CCT options)
  • BLF: Bob_McBob (Nichia 219B SW45k, still available?)
  • likely a few others here on BLF

If you’re looking to get them in 2-3 weeks, domestic is your best bet. Arrow, Digikey, and Mouser are large electronics suppliers so it might take some searching around to find what you’re looking for (verifying datasheets for flux bins, etc). I know I’ve purchased Luxeon V2 of various CCTs, LH351D 90-CRI (the “DA0GF4RTS”), lots of different Cree LEDs. The nice thing about ordering from MtnE (or a BLF member) is that you have an idea of what tint you’re getting (and it supports a fellow BLF’er). Let me/us know if you’re looking for something in particular.

I’ve reflowed new LEDs into those Wuben E05s. They’re a good candidate (get rid of that stinking Cree rainbow!).

jon_slider
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D10 mod to sw45k, on AA Eneloop
low 1 lumen
max 110 lumens

.

very simple to disassemble the D models, no need to remove the contact ring…

just line up the slot with one of the notches, by feel, and the pill turns easily to unscrew

The D pills are screwed in from the bottom. The EX pills drop out the front after removing the bezel.

neither the D nor EX models require removal of the contact ring… KISS!

lumenzilla
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jon_slider wrote:
D10 mod to sw45k, on AA Eneloop
low 1 lumen
max 110 lumens

.

Nice mod, Jon!

jon_slider
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Thanks to contactcr for the warm LED Thumbs Up

My first reaction was WOW! Smile
cant wait for Dark!

this completes a triumvirate of Nitecore PD EX11.2

they have excellent firefly levels <0.01 lumens, and stable regulation on CR123

nick779
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gchart wrote:
Off the top of my head…

International:

  • Kaidomain
  • Fasttech
  • AliExpress (Convoy, etc)
  • Led4Power
  • Intl Outdoor (Hank)
  • Cutter
  • Virence (Nichia!)

US / Canada:

  • Mtn Electronics
  • Illumn
  • Arrow
  • Digikey
  • Mouser (they have $3.49 economy shipping once you sign in)
  • BLF: azhu (Nichia 219B, a few CCT options)
  • BLF: Bob_McBob (Nichia 219B SW45k, still available?)
  • likely a few others here on BLF

If you’re looking to get them in 2-3 weeks, domestic is your best bet. Arrow, Digikey, and Mouser are large electronics suppliers so it might take some searching around to find what you’re looking for (verifying datasheets for flux bins, etc). I know I’ve purchased Luxeon V2 of various CCTs, LH351D 90-CRI (the “DA0GF4RTS”), lots of different Cree LEDs. The nice thing about ordering from MtnE (or a BLF member) is that you have an idea of what tint you’re getting (and it supports a fellow BLF’er). Let me/us know if you’re looking for something in particular.

I’ve reflowed new LEDs into those Wuben E05s. They’re a good candidate (get rid of that stinking Cree rainbow!).

Is there an easy cheat sheet of what can be reflowed on what package size or based on previous emitter?

Scallywag
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nick779 wrote:
Is there an easy cheat sheet of what can be reflowed on what package size or based on previous emitter?
There are two main package sizes: 3535 and 5050. There are also some 3030 emitters out there (notably Osram White Flat) and 4040 (Luxeon V and a different line of Osram white flats). Current modern emitters I can think of:
  • 3030:
    • Osram White Flat 1, 2 (CSLNM1.TG and CSLPM1.TG)
  • 3535:
    • Luminus SST20
    • Cree XP-E series
    • Cree XP-G2
    • Cree XP-G3
    • Cree XP-L (Hi)
    • Cree XHP35 (Hi)
    • Samsung LH351D
    • Nichia 219 (B and C)
    • Lumileds Luxeon V2
  • 4040:
    • Lumileds Luxeon V
    • Osram Boost HL/HX (CULNM1.TG, CULPM1.TG)
  • 5050:
    • Cree XM-L2
    • Luminus SST40
    • XHP50(.2)
  • 7070
    • XHP70(.2)
  • 90mm?
    • SBT90.2
    • MT-G2

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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As the name implies XHP70 is 7070 not 5050

gchart
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One more addition: the Lumileds Luxeon V2 is 3535

Note for nick779: the 3535 name means “3.5mm x 3.5mm”, 5050 means “5.0mm x 5.0mm” and so on. Generally, most LEDs with the same footprint dimensions (eg, 3535) are swappable. However, there are some LEDs out there that only have 2 pads instead of 3 (they’re “missing” the central thermal pad). These are not common in our high-output LEDs though, are are generally found in low output ones. An example that we deal with would be the Nichia E17A (a 1.7mm x 1.7mm LED). And a couple (though again, rare) have a central thermal pad that is not electrically neutral. The only one that comes to mind is the Osram Black Flat.

nick779
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Cool deal, thanks guys.

I have a few MCPCBs with 219Cs that I might practice on before trying to reflow a warmer XP-L2 or high CRI 219b/c to my E05.

e1000
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Slightly different twist on a Novatac 18350 mod.

I’m more confident in my soldering skills than my metalworking, so instead of a brass bar, I decided I would solder 5 small pogo pins together as a signaling contact. Cheap and effective, bought 100x pogo pins for $11-ish.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8JILQ

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