This was a quick and dirty 20 minutes worth of modding keeping the stock 5mm led just to show comparison to the stock aspheric set-up. Rufusbuck and hopefully O-L, will be doing a more advanced mod than this here shortly so stay tuned for better stuff. But this should give ya a general idea…….
Here’s the stock configs/stock light, with the after-market reflector etc., That black housing in the upper right screws in nice and crisply in the head which then compresses against the aspheric lens below it. It’s a bit taller than the OP reflector so that means contact-mods needed to be done in order for things to work. The aspheric as mentioned can be reversed which will then give ya sorta of a flood like the OP reflector mod that follows. I think that’s cool. Especially since this light is so easy to take apart all the way around that doing so literally takes less than 15 seconds. Prolly adding an 18mm o-ring to the aspheric and even the glass flat-lens wouldn’t hurt either. There’s a groove already inside the head for it so it should work. Kinda funny that it doesn’t come with one though. Nonetheless the housing does a nice job securing everything down anyway.
The aspheric a-lit and the OP reflector. It’s a decently deep OP reflector too for the size.
The ‘cartoonish’ perfect wall spot through the stock aspheric……both held about 3’ from the wall. Essentially ZERO spill.
Then flood mode with the OP reflector and flat-glass lens….
Then only about 12” from wall with stock aspheric. Condensed & quite brighter.
Top-shot with stock aspheric……
Top-shot with OP reflector. A lot floodier with a soft spread……both shots held about 12” above the table.
Here’s the after-market OP reflector in the head. As you can see it really fits perfectly like it was made for it. ……note the nice threads, and these weren’t even cleaned yet. That’s how shiny they come out of the package.
In order to make a negative connection work I had to solder-up that spring and the copper tiny washer. I reversed the spring so that the narrow end is soldered to the driver-positive because the wide-end of the spring was too wide and would get too close to the negative driver contact ring much less even be solderable - hence another reason for that little copper washer getting put on the fat end as the dinky AAA positive batt end wouldn’t be able to make solid contact. Btw, that copper washer’s hole in my view may actually help with the positive anode of the batt to ‘secure’ itself better in contact and perhaps assist from keeping any cocking and slide-off from going on should it be dropped, etc. But that’s just conjecture on my part. Although whether it works or not I kinda like it just from an engineering viewpoint.
Then I took a piece of 26awg (insulated a’ course) soldered it to the negative driver contact and then sandwiched the tinned wire in between the unanodized tube end, and then screwed it back together. Ya can’t even tell from the outside that this was done. It screwed together back easily and without forcing it too. These are small parts so ya gotta be fairly precise with the soldering gun.
Side by side. The mod is on the right.