Thanks for posting this! Very nice and clear photos.
If you don't want to grind the FET body, you can also mount it right-side-up. This is my preferred method because I am lazy and I don't want the LED- to be able to touch the top of the pill in those lights where I can push it all the way in.
STAR FW works as well if you want turbo timer, etc. Just change TCCR0A = 0x23 to TCCR0A = 0x21. This works in both normal and momentary versions. It doesn't have any strobe or ramping features though like luxdrv.
Here's a really bad cellphone picture that I took of my first one, which is obviously not very polished:
You can move it further inbound and still flash the driver if needed. I cut the legs shorter then bend them down until they are close to the required output pad then solder in place. This first one isn't quite where I place them now, but you can get the idea.
At 255 it is very near what the cells will do hooked directly to the LED. Can't remember what the exact value is but the resistance of this MOSFET is very low. I've seen 6A+ to an XM-L2 from a 20R, 7.5A+ into a triple XP-G2, and 11A+ into an MT-G2, quickly falling to around 10A after 30 seconds.
Thanks Comfy, definitely some good work there! Now someone is gonna have to hold my hand through learning solder wick braid so I can clean up a board like that, man that is nice!
Nice, thanks.
P.S. What’s with the other side of the driver, we strip all AMC’s? Maybe Nanjg 101 would be better solution then (with a bit more squeezing)!
Yes, all 7135s are stripped. You can see that in the pic where he says, "hey where'd that little capacitor go?". He moved it to the opposite side of the board.
On the original board the capacitor is attached to the PWM trace and ground. This is the same trace the leg of the FET attaches to. When you moved the cap to the inside you went to the power lead and ground, does that have the same result? Is the capacitor doing the same thing when hooked to these different places?
never mind, I see now that I had the wrong via. Upside down and backwards. :~
Sirius, you can use it with 2S MT-G2. Don't try 3S MT-G2 (this isn't a buck driver).
Also, you need to remember that this will go near direct drive, so it isn't a good setup for those lights that you need or want to limit the current on due to heat or battery life concerns. This is a good solution for when you can or want to run at direct drive current levels. This is a good "hot rod" light driver.
The place the cap used to be located was on the VCC trace and now it’s on the +Vin trace. It does the same thing, either way? So what, exactly, does the cap do anyway?
Justin, yes you still need the zener mod to keep the MCU happy. That's all the zener mod effects anyways--the voltage the MCU is seeing.
I don't think you will need to master/slave this setup, the MOSFET is good to 30A+ no problem and is very low resistance. After running an MT-G2 at 10A-11A it didn't get hot at all sitting in the open air. Heat is not an issue with this.
You could definitely run a lower PWM value, which is what Comfy hinted to earlier. You could also run higher-resistance cells. (Like a a Pana B vs. a 20R or PF).