thats what i am thinking as well, should have been marked 85Mh
I am working on another 4M529 and it looks like it comes with ICR18650-28A’s so i dont know what is going on. it is also a 90Mh
So my work have Dell Inspirons and they bought extra batteries. These are supposed to be genuine Dell batteries but I have pulled one apart and they are are not genuine. Hate to tell the requisition guys this …
So the pack is 11.1V 5200mAh pack with 6x18650 cells in 3s2p. It is to replace the Dell J1KND, 9T48V and W7H3N.
The 18650’s in them are purple in colour. The marking is ASO, so guessing they are ASO branded. Full marking is ASO GH1G221EF 809551 (this last part varies and appears to be a serial number). Below that marking is SZN, so another Shenzhen company I guess.
Can’t find specs but basing it on the specs on the pack, 3.7V 2600mAh. I don’t think it’ll do more than 1C constant discharge, the generic aftermarkets ones rarely do. Not bothering to test these as I’m not keeping any these.
i originally thought those were bak cells.
now i know.they are just fine for normal flashlight use and even did ok in our custom box mods we build.
i wound up with several hundred of these cells from new but obsolete packs bought by some school and later sent to us for recycling.not one dud and every last one were at 3.81v out of the sealed packs.not used to seeing that sort of consistancy in generic stuff.
Bought this new open box Acer AS10I5E pack on Ebay for $19.95 free s&h. Received it and pack date was 7-2012. Inside were 8 NCR18650A green Panasonic 3100mah cells. Voltage was 2.20v for all eight cells. In process of charging 4 cell for 30 minutes and voltage is 3.29V. Repeating on the second set as I am writing. Looks promising for $2.50 per battery!
Update…did a discharge 1.5A to 3.0V and checked 2885mah with the hobby charger. Do figure that at 2.5V minimum discharge would be close to rated capacity. The battery pack was purchased from ebay seller INANDOUTELECTRONICS. Many members here purchased packs from this seller and have been pleased.
I started by trying to read data out of them with PackProbe. Only a few yielded any data, and what they gave was patchy. I pulled open the rest to see if I could figure out why they weren’t working. I could tell that all of them had one or more bad bank of cells. I could also tell that some of the spot welds had broken at some point, perhaps while I was twisting the packs to get the case open.
When I checked cell voltages in situ, I found that all of the packs I opened had bad banks. Some worse than others.
Hmm, that ain’t good, how does each bank look…
Huh, I guess those aren’t bad, the rest though…
Umm, weird…
–2.69v?!? That can’t be right, but the polarity on the multimeter is right.
I looked at a few more packs. Found some more reverse polarity cells, but not with as much potential. A bunch of flat cells, and when I tore out individual cells, I found 0v cells paired with ~3.5v cells in the same bank and more broken spot welds. Not quite sure what is going on, other than these being lousy packs.
Out of 18 cells from three packs, I only have 3 (Samsung ICR18650-28As) that are anywhere worth charging.
Update: The three cells I charged are pretty hammered. When charged to 4.2v and tested on my Opus, they all put up about 1,720 mAh discharge capacity at 500mA drain. These cells are designed for 4.3 discharge voltage, and according to HJKs tests, when charged to 4.2 they give up about 8% of their capacity, which would put them at ~2,600 mAh from 4.2v when new. Internal resistance as measured by my Zh-yu battery analyzer from Fastech is ~75mOhm (for comparison, on the same rig, some pink samsungs pulled from one of those $12 Acer packs with a dozen or so cycles on them now come in at ~60mOhm, and some Sanyo blue top from a 110-cycle Lenovo pack I got from Hagg911 measure 55mOhm).
This thread needs to be stickied so it can be easy to find.
I tore apart some laptop battery packs last week. I’m new to this and this was my first tear down. I’m not sure what capacity these batteries are. Maybe one of you guys could figure it out?
Working Pull. Sanyo UR18650Y L43C Light Red, Green tip. Toshiba PA3534U-1BRS 10.8v 4000mAh. 6 cells Test 3.53v
Working Pull. Samsung ICR18650-26C Pink, White tip. Dell Type WW116 11.1v capacity 56wh. 6 cells Test 3.99v
Working Pull. Samsung ICR18650-22F Light Green, White tip. HP 485041-002 10.8v 47wh. 6 cells Test 2.53v
Non Working Pull (Wouldn’t Charge). Samsung ICR18650-20B Light Blue, White tip. High Capacity Power Products aftermarket for Sony Vaio, 14.8v 4000mah 8 cells. 2 cells Test 0.00v DEAD! 6 cells Test 3.77v
Non Working Pull (Wouldn’t Charge). Sanyo UR18650F Light Red, White tip. Gateway 600YGR 3UR18650F-3-QC-7 11.1v 5700mAh. 9 cells Test 2.59v
I Just did my first laptop pull… My old Asus EeePC 1000HD with a busted screen kindly donated it’s battery pack. The battery pack name was PL32-901 and was rated at 8700mAh. It was easy to bust open and not much glue. Inside I found six cells which would be rated at 1450 mAh each. Edit: As pointed out below the battery pack was 7.4V, not 3.4V, so they are 2900 mAh each.
Oh? The battery pack had a rating of 8700 mAh on it. Divide that by 6 and it’s 1450. Is it common that battery pack ratings are not the same as cell ratings?
I looked up what voltage those packs the EeePC use run at, and they state 7.4V, and 3.7V nominal in 2S is 7.4V. Also I assumed the configuration is 2S3P after seeing the pictorial proof and capacity rating. In the end 8700/3 = 2900.
Now I want to go out and hunt for those high Wh/mAh 2S3P packs since I've never tore one open yet