I could have sworn that there was a thread devoted to the BLF A6 problems, as this one is, so as not to clutter up the main group. I believe it was started by chouster. Anybody know what happened to it?
Hi BLightSam, I didn’t start a thread on that topic, I think CircaM started one, because of the issues with he had his unit.
OP has a lot of good info. Seems like a good start to a very informative BLF A6 fix-it and mod knowledge base.
Yet another my misinformation. :zipper_mouth_face:
never mind 
Thanks dudunphy. Not only will it potentially address some concerns of the BLF A6, but looks like it might be a good resource for newbies like me who fear messing around with the guts of a light; kind of a flashlight basic training. Chances are the info is on BLF, but can be lost in threads with more technical info.
subscribing…
Thanks! I was hoping I could help a few people! If you do some searching there are other beginner type threads. But I was hoping to help people with this particular light as it was such a huge thread and a great seller.
For the noob by the noob!? 
Hello added some more stuff. Run times Flashlight wiki link. More explanation on how you can check amperage with another pic of the tube.
I don’t envy you, trying to put all the useful info in one place.
But I’m glad you’re doing it!
Is there any solution for pitchi sound on Hi modes, my is just too loud, even my kid standing 10 feet from me asked me what is that noise. I know kids can hear better then us hi frec. but i can hear it too. Its only when current is regulated, so 5th and 6th mode, or 3th in 4 mode configuration.
Thanks
Nikola
If it has a high-pitched whine, there is probably something wrong with the light. It should be generating sound… but it’s pulsing at 19 kHz which should be too high for almost anyone to hear. However, if the driver is under-clocked or there’s a weird connection making resonance, it could be making different frequencies.
If you put the light in bike flasher mode, it should stutter once per second. But if the driver is under-clocked, it would then stutter slower, like once every 2 seconds or 4 seconds. I’d suggest testing this first before opening the light to look for anything else which might be weird.
Yes its stutter once per second, maybe it just bad solder like from the picture above, I will try to reflow. Also might be that all one have this but no one have noticed. Just put the light closer to the ear and check it out ?
I’ve heard that too but not every time. I’m gonna put a fresh cell in the one I went through and see because I felt like it was when pushing high amps.
Haha thanks TK please if there is any thing you want on here let me know. I still really don’t understand the in and out of why this resistor here and this size resistor there. You and wight (who am I missing. db?) seem like the pros!
I definitely am getting a squeal in modes 5 and 6 on both of my lights.
So it just so happens today that I am working on a sound proof booth here at CSU. Lucky me the doctor in charge of this is studying how auditory signals affect brain waves. We got to talking about khz so I brought up the 19 khz TK had mentioned. He said that while most people cannot hear that pitch - some nice sound systems are designed to reproduce up to 20k just in case I can’t remember the number he threw out but some people can get up there with good ears. Also he explained that like trying to talk under water you can hear but the water really puts a damper on the frequencies.
So what I got out of it is the metal or something around the driver is being resonated at a pitch we can hear. My thought is something is echoing the 19k at a slower rate like the capacitor or a mixture of things bouncing little sine waves around at a different rate?
One more thing I have noticed and mentioned before,is that head is not waterproof,glass is sitting directly on metal,and no O-ring between. . . so dont put it in the watter couse led is almost directly exposed
Well with a thread like this started, you may also be be one of the pro’s shortly!
Seriously good thread here, should be stickied….
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps a thin o-ring can be added between the bezel and lens.
No I have tried that but then you cant screw the head to the end…