Brinyte B158 mod thread

One of the boards shown in KKW's picture shows a NANJG 105C which can not have been a stock board, his text is a bit confusing but I assume his copy had a single board too.

Just looking at my three pills, the XM-L and red and green XP-E’s, the boards appear different.

The XM-L has the same blue coloured board as in KKW’s pics, and the other two have a green coloured board with the familiar grounding stars for mode selection around the outside. My XM-L is three mode, the other two are single mode. I’m assuming what I’m seeing is the outside of a single driver board on the XP-E units, not just a contact board. Maybe I’ll disassemble one of the green ones I have, I don’t really use them. In any case, I have some spare drivers.

The mount - I’ve used my B158 in the field a few times, mounted on both my .17HMR and .223 bolt action. The light worked quite well and I’ve taken over 30 foxes using it, with both the white and red LED’s.

The included mount will work on one of those scope mounted ring-rails, on a 40mm AO scope and it just clears. On my .17HMR the light can sit directly over the low profile vertical scope turret.

On the .223 which has tall, target style turrets I just offset the mount to about 1 o’clock so the torch sits between the vertical and horizontal turrets.

I haven’t tried this light on a harder kicking rifle than the .223 (next to no recoil) but I have thumped the light pretty hard with my hand from the front, back and side while it’s on to see if it flickers. It doesn’t. :slight_smile:

Nice info. How you consider focusing action when rifle mounted? Hard or easy? Do you have to watch to not unscrew tailcap when doing focusing?

TBH, I tend not to play with the focus when I’m hunting. On average I’m calling foxes in to around 50 - 75m so I set the focus a bit less than fully focused as I want a bit more spread - in particular with the tight spot of the red XP-E.

I did test out focusing the light with the rifle shouldered and a fox coming in the other night and it worked OK.

Yes, loosening the tailcap when adjusting focus can happen if you aren’t careful! I tend to tighten it up as hard as I can by hand and be careful to grab ahead of it if I can - the light is never used on full flood so there’s some battery tube left to grab.

For those interested, here’s a fox lit up at about 50m. Screengrabs from footage of my ATN gun camera, which has 5X optical zoom.

Another a bit closer.

Red XP-E pill at about 20m, defocused a bit.

I’ll be doing an XP-G2 pill, not that I often need really long throw but it will be interesting and handy to have. :slight_smile:

Oh yes it was the stock board. The picture is of what came in the pill. I think one of two things is going on.

1. The white LED drivers use the contact plate, while the green and red versions don’t.

2. The lights sold by fasttech are different than the ones being sold through gearbest, possibly an earlier revision.

Thanks,

That may be crucial in choosing UF1503(T50) over B158.

This mentioned above is maybe their design flaw. They could put some kind ring(anti roll) similar as this to eliminate possible tailcap unscrewing during focusing issue:

Yeah, it’s not ideal that the tailcap can come unscrewed during focusing.

TBH, if I was really worried out it, I’d tape the tailcap up before a night’s hunting so that couldn’t happen.

My samples have come direct from Brinyte, FYI.

Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

I do, but it doesn’t sound like all of them are put together that way, only those of us who got white ones from fasttech have seen the 2 board setup(I think, unless you got a white one from Brinyte that way). We’ll have to see how the ones from gearbest come, it appears the colored ones will not have floaters.

What other issues do you foresee?

I really don’t get why they would built lights like this with floating drivers - they’ve made those nice, heavy brass pills and then throw away the heatsinking aspect of it by having the driver floating inside in thin air.

AND it overcomplicates the assembly process. :*

Not wanting to pull my pills to bits, I probed down through the LED wire holes on the green XP-E and XM-L units and it does seem that the XP-E has a single board while the XM-L has the contact board and separate driver floating in the pill.

Maybe. I don’t have that problem now that I’ve modded mine. I feel like most people who have got in on this group buy purchased the red light, with the intention of modding it- so it won’t be a problem. And yes, the XP-E does have a single board, unless there’s a different revision floating around. My video confirms this.

Maybe a piece of inner tube stretched over the tube and tail cap?

Yeah that might work.

For those interested, a 30mm scope ring will neatly fit the neck section of the B158 if you need a higher mount. There is ample clearance here on a 40mm scope with AO. And of course there are higher mounts than this out there. This is just a DX cheapie and they work fine for mounting lights. :slight_smile:

That’s a Brinyte S28 tailcap with pressure switch by the way, and it works. (I don’t use pressure switches, it’s just a ’speriment) :slight_smile:

Thanks blitzwing. If its no trouble could you post up a couple of links.

Sure.

The mount used above:

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-25-30mm-gun-rail-mount-black-2-pcs-230284#.Vm_mCkorLAU

The 25mm rail adaptor that is on the scope - this is a 25mm / 1” one but they have 30mm also.

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-bracket-mount-with-hex-wrench-for-m16-gun-25mm-caliber-47332#.Vm_mRUorLAU

I got my pressure switch with a batch of Brinyte S28’s, I see they are listed on Aliexpress for a somewhat steep price….

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Brinyte-S18-S28-Remote-Pressure-Switch/422244_939910629.html

Thanks blitzwing. Now for some lights.

I’m wondering how a red SST-90 might go in one of these. :smiley:

The XP-E on full focus is TIGHT, if you lose an inbound fox it’s almost like searching with a laser beam trying to pick it up again…. :wink:

New results with a 6x7135 Q.lite driving a red XP-E2, and an XQE at around 3A coming soon.

I give a guess 230kcd for XP-E2 :)

I received the B158 +two extra pills yesterday and did KKW's mod tonight with the dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B. As driver I used an AK-47C1 (set to a simple 10%-100% because of the forward clicky, there's no memory and low is always first in this driver) with the 7135's replaced by one FET. Tailspring and driver spring were bypassed with 20AWG silicone wire, ledwires are 20AWG, ledboard was soldered to the pill.

I still have to do cosmetic stuff for the beam (blackening everything around the led) but of course the first thing to do was measuring the throw. Measured at 7.00 meter distance, with a VTC5 at 4.20V. 30 seconds after switch-on, I measured 322 kcd. :party: With a 30Q at 4.16V I measured 316 kcd. The output isn't at all plummeting down btw, it is a nice stable mod :-)

I have not measured the current yet, probably between 4 and 5A? For good focus, I had to unscrew the head a bit for extra lens distance from the led, because of the ticker Noctigon and dedomed led, while the dimensions of the flashlight are made for a thinner board and a domed led.

I'm super-glad that we managed to get the brass ring with the pill, even with my 25W iron I could solder the driver to the ring, and then the ring was easily pressed into the pil with a vice (one side first, then the opposite site, you get what I mean), I did not fully press it in, so that I may get it out again one day.

Thanks mhanlen for getting the group buy for this light plus the extra's done! I will love this light!

Wow 300kcd. Can’t wait for my b158 to arrive. I will also put in my xpg2 s4 2b but not dedomed yet, what kcd should i expect with domed s4 2b? Also about the tint of s4 2b when dedomed does it have greenish tint? Can you post you beamshot, djozz?