Hey guys, I was late to get on this group buy. Got a email from BG saying it was out of stock and expected to restock Feb 19th. They gave me 3 options . Wait, store credit, or refund.
First I think it is great of BG to offer the group buy and notify me the out of stock issue and give me options.
My question to UNI-T UT210e owners.
1. Is it worth waiting for ?
2. How easy is it to use? I know nothing about amp readings.
3. Does it seam accurate ?
I think it’s great to have. The only thing it’s missing is ability to measure the tiny tiny currents by the leads instead of the clamp, but I have a traditional DMM that can handle that for me.
I would say it’s worth getting, and 4 days isn’t that long to wait if they are right on their restock date.
Thanks PD. I will click the wait for restock button. That will give me time to figure out how to use it. I found a few video’s on it I need to check out.
Ok, I clicked wait for restock and BG page pop up with this.
Expected arrival time:2016-02-19 00:00:00
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@pilotdog68 - I’m glad that you brought this topic up. The UT210E seems like a great deal with the group buy price (and a good deal even without it). I just broke down and ordered a pair.
Mine seems to measure about a half amp low (when measuring 10amps of current) but I’m not sure as I don’t have a calibrated reference. I’m fairly confident my 10ams current is 10 amps as 2 other devices I trust measure it the same. Is there some type of calibration we are supposed to follow with these? I see a button marked “zero”. I pressed that until it beeped while holding it in the air away from electrical devices.
EDIT: In case it matters, mine had the cell or cells installed and ready to run upon receipt.
Disclaimer: I’ve never operated one of these and mine is still in the mail. The zero is to combat stray magnetic fields. Zero it in place with no current flowing. Do not physically move anything while it’s in operation after it’s been zero’ed.
Correct, and that zero-ing in position in the measuring set-up is really needed, can easily make half an amp difference.
For my emitter tests, the current used was always the current read-out of my the power supply as it measures within 0.1A of two other ways to measure current (DMM and 0.01 Ohm sense resistor). On my last led-test I used the clamp meter current instead because it gives an extra digit which makes it easier to set the current. The clamp meter reads consistently 0.1A less than my power supply from 0 to 8A, which is pretty ok I think. I have the feeling that my power supply is more wrong than my clamp meter, but that is just a feeling