After giving it some thought. I think I’ll try the copper. I can always pick up a brass light if that doesn’t work out. Thanks for the input, as well as the pictures!
I don’t have any brass flashlight yet, but I have a 20+ year old brass Zippo in this photo as comparison.
I believed the Kronos X5 Cu is coated with some kind of material that will eventually rubbed off, hence no patina yet while the raw Maratac Cu is only about 2 months old.
I had the Maratac copper AAA on my keychain for two years, rubbing and banging against the keys, and it still looks and works great. Now that small copper Cooyoo has replaced it, thinner built but it holds up fine too.
Copper vs Brass few days of use:
I really like that olight. I’ll have to check into those!
I have a personal preference …. and many more still sealed in foil.
You guys are killing me lol! I haven’t even finish looking up the olight posted by trevilux. I’m really liking all these lights.
UltraTac have one brass compatible with 10440 (officially compatible) a great light: K18
I don’t like the way copper tarnishes so quickly, but others really like that aspect of copper. If you want a light that looks new, don’t get copper. If you want a light that looks antique, then copper is really good for that.
The oxidation in the knurling is the only part of the copper that I don’t really like that much. Everywhere that gets rubbed off, it looks great. I like the antique look. But I know for a fact, that I’ll never polish a flashlight lol! So it’s either I get a light that doesn’t have any knurling, or brass.
Oh, one other thing: copper reacts with oils in your skin, and can sometimes smell a little bad or odd. This doesn’t appear to happen with most other metals or alloys. I’m not sure about brass. Brass is an alloy of copper, so it wouldn’t surprise me if it also smells.
Timbo, what is the first light in this pic??
Body is a custom fivemega tube from CPF
Head is a Cryos cooling head.
Tail cap is by Ronac, with McClicky
Also has a solid copper drop in by nailbender from CPF
Total cost was $$$
VERY heavy - been stored in my gun safe from day 1.
Could be for sale.
Kenneth07ex,
If you can have a month or so of patience, I am working on a group buy for a solid copper Astrolux A01 HERE it will be uncoated and price right now is only $20. With a Nichia 4000K 219B-V1 emitter and three modes, it should be a great light for one that is not “needed”, but only wanted on the keychain.
One nice thing about copper and some brass alloys, they have antimicrobial effects …
That’s a nice looking light, I’d definitely be interested in a copper version for $20. Is the mode spacing still the same?
Yes, the modes are the ML, low, high and after two cycles through, a strobe. The idea was for a copper version with no tweaks to the internals to slow development. The stock one is pretty good, though some do not like the ML level as it is very low and sub lumen. Personally, I like the level spacing, I would rather have the modes too far apart than too close together. The 4000K emitter is NW to WW level and very easy on the eyes…
Sweet collection!
What is the one that is 3rd from the left in the bottom picture? It looks like it has a wicked font for the logo!
ReyLight Copper Lumintop Tool with Nichia 219b. Modes are 1/18/80 lumen, in that order. It is NLA, but I have a brand new one sealed in foil, PM me if interested.
Lumintop still makes the Copper Tool with Nichia 219b. Modes are 18/3/80, in that order.
fwiw, the Olight CU is not copper, its brass coated with Gold Colored Titanium Particle Deposition Vapor. It does not tarnish, and does not have the germicidal properties of Copper.
fwiw, copper and brass, including the knurling, can easily be cleaned with a vinegar soak (or ketchup)
click for video
Copper is much better at conducting heat as well as electricity, than Brass.
Of the lights pictured, the Tool and Prometheus Beta offer the Nichia LED. The Tool has NoPWM, I recommend it.
Another light with a Nichia, with NoPWM is the Lumintop Copper Worm with 18/3/80 lumens.
I like to use the head of my Worm on a Maratac, (the maratac head does not work on the worm, but I find the worm body too heavy, so I only bought it to get the Nichia head)
or at times on a Titanium Thrunite
neither Maratac, nor Thrunite offer the Nichia LED
The ReyLight Tool head also fits the Copper Maratac, and both lights work with the heads swapped (You can see the Maratac head is Cool White, while the Copper Tool is Neutral White and High CRI):
Thanks for taking the time for the explanations.
Wicked lights!