New XinTD C8 V3, deeper reflector? More throw?

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Rockspider
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New XinTD C8 V3, deeper reflector? More throw?

Just stumbled upon new version V3 of the well known XinTD C8 at IntlOutdoor.
The pictures of the new deeper reflector looks promising, anyone has noted this before?
Previous version was nice and throwy but personally did not like the beamshot, a lot of rings and artifacts.
Hope this one is better!
Does anybody has bought one yet?

Link:
New XinTD C8 V3

bose301s
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Looks nice, assuming it will still be out thrown by the HD2010 and others though.

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bose301s wrote:
Looks nice, assuming it will still be out thrown by the HD2010 and others though.

That’s a completely different animal, much larger reflectored 26650 light that works also on 18650, not a fair competition to me…

I would like to see how better the V3 beamshot is compared to the older version, but don’t expect it to beat a 7G5 in throw… ;)

The XinTD C8 I had was nicely driven but the reflector was inferior to the Ultrafire C8, it had a larger hotspot with lots of rings, so I ended up swapping the XinTD pill into the Ultrafire body and reflector, so I got a “perfect” C8, with tight hotspot and nice clean spill “almost” ring-free.

…maybe I’ll end up buying one just to compare to my modded one!

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I have a Manta Ray XM-L C8. The reflector is of standard C8 width, but somewhat deeper. Compared to a regular C8, this one yields a wider and brighter corona, which makes a very nice beam for walks, as it lights up the path length pretty uniformly thanks to the additional intermediate brightness level. No gain in throw, though.

Loris
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I’ve got one, seems to throw more than the other C8s I have, there is a hole in the beam shining against a wall which the other C8s don’t have, but it’s not noticeable when used.

mertinator
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I have the V2 and I am also curious on how much the V3’s beam has changed.

...and God said: "Let there be light!" and there was budgetlightforum! Smile

DrJones
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Reflector depth has only a minor influence on throw. Diameter is most important. (more info here)

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I own the V3 NW 3-mode... the beam is pretty much perfect... in fact it is a little too throwy for my taste. No rings... much better thrower than the KD C8, but it isn't as throwy like the UF C8 XR-E  from Ebay which is to be expected. I highly recommend the V3 NW 3-mode (high PWM) ... my almost perfect light. I would rate the perfection level over my (not so similar) DQG III NW and the Shiningbeam S-Mini II which are the runner ups.

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Just received the XinTD V3 with a T6 C3 Neutral White tint, 2 mode, from int-outdoor.com

Thanks to Jeansy’s review.

This is easily the best C8 type light that I have, out of these:
2 Ultrafire C8 XM-L T6
1 Ultrafire clone C8 Q5
1 Ultrafire clone C10 XM-L
and may even best this:
1 Ultrafire UF-980L

It has great tint, and wow factor after dark, lights up the whole street.
I will eventually do some beamshots and tailcap readings, as I’m curious now.

I’m using these protected Blazar batteries, based on the Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh, from an Aussie seller (supersports600) on ebay.

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rikr
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Suncoaster wrote:
Just received the XinTD V3 with a T6 C3 Neutral White tint, 2 mode, from int-outdoor.com

Thanks to Jeansy’s review.

This is easily the best C8 type light that I have, out of these:
2 Ultrafire C8 XM-L T6
1 Ultrafire clone C8 Q5
1 Ultrafire clone C10 XM-L
and may even best this:
1 Ultrafire UF-980L

It has great tint, and wow factor after dark, lights up the whole street.
I will eventually do some beamshots and tailcap readings, as I’m curious now.

I’m using these protected Blazar batteries, based on the Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh, from an Aussie seller (supersports600) on ebay.

I have the new V3 and the 980L and the 980L is still the better thrower…
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rikr wrote:
I have the new V3 and the 980L and the 980L is still the better thrower…

Interesting. I’d say 980L throw better because it’s DD on HI, right? (or 980L has more concentrated beam? :| )

rikr
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SashiX wrote:
rikr wrote:
I have the new V3 and the 980L and the 980L is still the better thrower…
Interesting. I’d say 980L throw better because it’s DD on HI, right? (or 980L has more concentrated beam? :| )
That’s what I said, the 980L throws better
Ptery83
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Can anyone give a firsthand comparison of this new V3 vs. the Romisen T-601 U2?

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rikr wrote:
SashiX wrote:
rikr wrote:
I have the new V3 and the 980L and the 980L is still the better thrower…

Interesting. I’d say 980L throw better because it’s DD on HI, right? (or 980L has more concentrated beam? :| )

That’s what I said, the 980L throws better

because of DD on hi or because of more concentrated beam?

Yup, +1 for that comparison (980L, XinTD, Romisen and… HD2010 :bigsmile: )

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I was one who bought one of the very first XinTD C8 style flashlights.

Some persons have said that they saw a Green Ring in the beam.

If you change the position of the LED to the Refelctor that problem will go away. The problem is that the pill is screwed to far in, in relation to the reflector.

It took me half an hour to screw it UP grins

d337944
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Hi all

I’ve got one of these V3 versions, and am more than happy with it for the money paid! I bought one of the “scratched” ones that Hank was selling off for a while, but that didn’t affect the performance. Mine came with a scratched lens though, but Hank threw in a replacement lens with my next order.

The beam is just fine – there are no rings at all. The only “issue” is that the hotspot is not perfectly focussed … you see a defined circle at the centre of the hotspot, then the wider spread of the beam. I’ve played with unscrewing my reflector, but that made it worse so I’ve left my reflector screwed in as much as possible and it is perfectly acceptable.

From my experience in playing with various P60 drop-ins, it seems that either the reflector is not exactly matched to the LED used, or the reflector (in this case) needs to be screwed in more … which is not possible.

But the throw is great! It out-throws my second-hand Malkoff Hound Dog XML (which is not a cheap light!), and also out-throws everything else in my collection except for my dedicated modded Mag thrower with XP-G. Very impressive indeed.

The only other issue I’ve had is an apparent loose solder joint at star 4 on the driver … I ordered a 2-mode, but on several occasions it became a 5-mode by itself, then changed back! I’ll have to find someone to fix this for me, but should be easy.

So, if you want a small (smaller than the 980L … which I don’t have) single 18650 thrower, I highly recommend the XinTD C8 V3! Couple this with the great reliable service from Hank at IO, and you have a definitely worthwhile purchase!

Cheers
d337944

aL1
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I've been on the fence looking at dual torches for my bike...Romisen RC-T601/2's or XinTD C8's-

I'm glad to hear your positive comments about the XinTD C8-

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No worries aL1, my experience (even with the couple of issues) has been excellent with the XinTD C8 V3, and also with Hank at International Outdoor.

I forgot to mention that the XinTD is also a very solid, thick-walled light, and the fact that the reflector screws on to the pill … which then screws into the host, means great heat-transference compared to those push-in / push-on type reflectors. It feels hefty and reliable in the hand, and also the switch is quite a beefy unit and should hold up well in time.

Still a great reliable buy in my mind … no gambling with quality issues or variable driver performance with some other similar throwers out there!

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Yeah, so far the XinTD has edged-out the Romisen for at least a better out-of-the-box experience-

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I’m so tempted to get V3 (really like the original), but the HD2010 I just got is so awesome (even on 18650 batteries) I might have to get another one of those instead.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

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d337944 wrote:
The beam is just fine – there are no rings at all. The only “issue” is that the hotspot is not perfectly focussed … you see a defined circle at the centre of the hotspot, then the wider spread of the beam. I’ve played with unscrewing my reflector, but that made it worse so I’ve left my reflector screwed in as much as possible and it is perfectly acceptable.

From my experience in playing with various P60 drop-ins, it seems that either the reflector is not exactly matched to the LED used, or the reflector (in this case) needs to be screwed in more … which is not possible.


No, it’s not an “issue”, d Smile It’s just a different reflector. Could be that, a “not exactly matched” reflector for the LED, but for me, this type of beam is quite useful, actually. It combines throw and flood.

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trooplewis wrote:
I'm so tempted to get V3 (really like the original), but the HD2010 I just got is so awesome (even on 18650 batteries) I might have to get another one of those instead.

That UltraFire HD2010 looks good... Cool

The XinTD C8 V3 is an awesome light, but as far as lumens and modding goes, I think the HD2010 has it-

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d337944 wrote:

So, if you want a small (smaller than the 980L … which I don’t have) single 18650 thrower, I highly recommend the XinTD C8 V3! Couple this with the great reliable service from Hank at IO, and you have a definitely worthwhile purchase!

Cheers
d337944

+1.
I love my XinTD C8 V3 (Neutral White 3C mmmm.)
I also love my 980L.
I must point out that the 980L is a little smaller than the XinTD C8 V3:

L-R: Clone C10, Clone C8 Q5, Ultrafire C8 XM-L T6, XinTD C8 V3, Ultrafire UF-980L

Opera <span style=“font-family: tahoma, arial, helvet

d337944
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Hi mate – gee that 980L really is smaller than the XinTD! Thanks for that info mate – I don’t own a 980L and was going by what someone else reported.

Nice collection you have there too!

Cheers
d337944

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Yes, the 980L was smaller than I expected, and the XinTD larger !
I’ll bet the HD2010 is smaller than it appears online too….

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visigoth
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Has anyone had a chance to compare V2 to V3 yet? I have the second version, and if I had any complaint it was the reflector — rings in the beam — although I stippled the surface with hairspray to make a DIY orange peel, and it’s pretty nice now.

visigoth
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I received an emailed notification that someone had responded to this… yet nobody has. Very perplexing.

I’ll ask again, however: anybody here have experience of both versions?

Oh, and would it be possible to put the new reflector in the older version? (Doesn’t look it — seems you’d have to replace the whole assembly.)

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_

d337944 wrote:
Hi all
I’ve got one of these V3 versions, and am more than happy with it for the money paid! I bought one of the “scratched” ones that Hank was selling off for a while, but that didn’t affect the performance. I highly recommend the XinTD C8 V3! Couple this with the great reliable service from Hank at IO, and you have a definitely worthwhile purchase!
Cheers
d337944

Just like d337944 I got myself one of those “scratched” V3’s. It’s a darn good flashlight, for the money I paid. It’s well made, bright as anything and can be ordered without those annoying blinky modes. I got the 3 mode version (low-med-hi). The beam pattern is not bad at all and it throws pretty good too. I’ve owned a couple of C8’s in the past (which I’ve since given away) but this one’s the best.

Lights out! That's when things get interesting...

Ecig
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With such fancy internals, they could have done some better design.

For example something like this http://www.dinodirect.com/flashlight-led-multifunction-1000lm.html

If it wasnt to expensive for me for such light, I would take it. Reflector is very important Smile

visigoth
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So, just for the hell of it, I unscrewed the reflector completely from my V2. Makes for a really nice mule: perfect circular wall of light.

I find that even the neutral XML has a bit of a green corona thing going on, which disappears when you take out the reflector. I suppose the only downside, mulewise, is that the emitter’s a bit far back from the opening. Also, you need some sort of spacer to keep the lens tight against the front o-ring — I figure I’ll just find a rubber washer the right size, if I decide to keep it like this.

f42
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I have two questions for those who owns XinTD C8 V3, the driver in the picture below directly touches to the battery? Is there a seperate battery compartment? (Inside the battery tube)

And is this light suitable for Mountain biking ? (Lots of shocks, tremors and shakes etc.:)

Thanks in advance!



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A small foam disc might be a good idea, preventing the battery smacking into the 7135 chips of the underside of the driver on rough landings.

f42
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Vectrex wrote:

A small foam disc might be a good idea, preventing the battery smacking into the 7135 chips of the underside of the driver on rough landings.

Also something like this :



Nationalism is an infantile disease. It is the measles of mankind.

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i’m thinking to buy this light with cool white led, but i already have a ultrafire C8 with xml-t6, but i measured the tailcap yesterday and my multimeter says 1.12, so i think that it means that my xml-t6 is only driven at 1.12A? correct? so would it be a big difference if i buy the XinTd?

greetz thomas

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Do you trust your DMM to read high currents? Many people with cheaper DMMs and especially cheaper leads (more important) suspected their light to be "under-driven" when they found out later that the leads for measuring had such a high resistance, that they would take away several 100 mA's. Do you have access to a second DMM/leads to crosscheck that measurement?

f42
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thomasdeurne wrote:
i’m thinking to buy this light with cool white led, but i already have a ultrafire C8 with xml-t6, but i measured the tailcap yesterday and my multimeter says 1.12, so i think that it means that my xml-t6 is only driven at 1.12A? correct? so would it be a big difference if i buy the XinTd?

greetz thomas

If your batteries are good, I think you will see a big difference Smile

http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XM-L


Nationalism is an infantile disease. It is the measles of mankind.

Albert Einstein

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Yeah i can fix a multimeter somewhere, i’ll check it later today.
And my battery is a 3000mah ultrafire. i know it’s not very good, but she’s in good condition i think

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Is the clicky of V3 very hard to press normally? I found that mine required a lot of pressure to press it. I had to use my index finger to get a better angle to press it instead of using my thumb.

hoffig
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My V3 has a much firmer switch than eg. my KD C8. I changed the rubber boot to a different one (14mm fits ok, the original is 16mm). The one I have has bit more height and it is much easier to push the switch now. Tighter spill than my KD C8 due to the deeper reflector as well.

I have no V2 to compare with, only the KD C8.

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f42 wrote:
I have two questions for those who owns XinTD C8 V3, the driver in the picture below directly touches to the battery? Is there a seperate battery compartment? (Inside the battery tube)

And is this light suitable for Mountain biking ? (Lots of shocks, tremors and shakes etc.:)


There is no separate battery compartment; the driver is directly exposed to the battery.

As for mountain biking, I would say it’s probably not suitable, mostly because it’s too throwy. Wouldn’t that sort of thing be better with a flooder? I’d go for something more along the lines of a Convoy S3 with XP-G2 emitter at 1400mA or 1050mA. That still has a good spring at both ends of the battery, but emits a much wider beam with longer runtime. Or even an Ultrafire HD2011 (very floody), though the low PWM there might get annoying.

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hlsgbud wrote:
Is the clicky of V3 very hard to press normally? I found that mine required a lot of pressure to press it. I had to use my index finger to get a better angle to press it instead of using my thumb.

When mine arrived, I complained about the switch, being a contractor and American I was used to tool flaws being fixed for free, and with an apology when they are new and under warranty, but I was told by intl-outdoor to use my index finger and evidently to live with the problem.

Post 38 repaired his purchase from the Chinese company intl-outdoor, but I’m not used to having to repair brand new devices and tools myself, dealing with Chinese retailers is an experience new to me, and not a pleasant one.

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hlsgbud wrote:
Is the clicky of V3 very hard to press normally? I found that mine required a lot of pressure to press it. I had to use my index finger to get a better angle to press it instead of using my thumb.
Yeah it’s kind of recessed and it takes a bit of force to turn on but it feels fine to me. Reverse cl-icky and it’s a fairly sold switch. At least it tail stands pretty well considering the contour on the tail cap.

Overall it seems to be a good light, I like mine and it throws well with a nice spill and output (U2, 2800ma version, it puts out about that). The ano isn’t perfect but I’ve wrapped it in bike tubes and now it’s my general use light when I need something to work with. I did smash it into concrete from about four or so feet right off the bat and other than a few ano scrapes it seems fine, I wouldn’t recommend repeating this.

I wouldn’t use it for mnt biking since it’s a bit throwy stock and the size just doesn’t lead it’s self well to head mounting. It could be diffused but I’d rather get a smaller/cheaper light for something like that.

When your off road you’ll have to have a good mount to keep it from bouncing and I’d be concerned about beating the cells and changing modes; a light with an external pack would in general be better for mounted use since it wouldn’t do this since most of the weight of the battery can be moved elsewhere and the housing made smaller.

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ar lens… 7135 driver…. deeper reflector… looking good!

might have to put it on the want list!

supfire x5 vs c8 v3?

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

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brad wrote:
When mine arrived, I complained about the switch, being a contractor and American I was used to tool flaws being fixed for free, and with an apology when they are new and under warranty, but I was told by intl-outdoor to use my index finger and evidently to live with the problem.

Post 38 repaired his purchase from the Chinese company intl-outdoor, but I’m not used to having to repair brand new devices and tools myself, dealing with Chinese retailers is an experience new to me, and not a pleasant one.


I have found that my XinTD C8’s button is harder to press than my other lights, but it seems to be mostly because it’s more recessed without compensating by being less stiff than average. It seems to just come that way standard. It doesn’t really bother me, though it would be kind of nice if it was slightly less recessed.

When I got a couple of “EDC 18650“s from Intl-Outdoor, one arrived with a flaky switch. It worked, sort of, but it acted like there was a short or crack somewhere inside the circuit. I asked Hank if he could do anything about it, and he happily included a free switch with my next order.

The XinTD C8 V3 I got there is mostly flawless, with only two tiny imperfections. It has a small chip missing from the emitter dome, but it isn’t visible in the beam and I can only tell it’s there because of its magnified image in the reflector. It also has some barely-visible streaks in the anti-reflective lens coating, only visible from one specific angle. I’m not planning to request any replacement parts.

Overall it’s a very nice light… good throw, smaller than it looks in pictures, smooth bright hotspot, well-built. It seems to throw a bit better than my Skyray King (22.5k cd) with far less blinding flood, but I don’t have actual lux readings. The throw is about halfway between medium (~14k cd) and high (~39k cd) on my TK75, so I’d guess somewhere in the realm of 25k to 30k cd. Not bad for such a little light.

I got the XM-L U3 1C version, with 3-modes, driven at 140mA, 840mA, and 2800mA. The reflector seems to be about 37mm across (compared to ~41mm in the TK75). Its hotspot seems to be about 30% or 40% bigger than the TK75’s, and has well-defined bright edges.

Anyway, I’m happy with it. Now that I have a pocketable, city-appropriate thrower, I’ll be giving the TK75 to my father for use on his ranch.

brad
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Quote:
When I got a couple of “EDC 18650“s from Intl-Outdoor, one arrived with a flaky switch. It worked, sort of, but it acted like there was a short or crack somewhere inside the circuit. I asked Hank if he could do anything about it, and he happily included a free switch with my next order.

I do believe that Hank would have quickly jumped to take care of a clear defect like yours that would keep the light from working at all, he doesn’t strike me at all as a crook, not anything like that at all, but I was disappointed that what is evidently the wrong switch for the light is being muscled through by his company, look at all the complaints on the switch on this thread.

This was my first 18650 light, and outside of the clearly flawed switch, the light seems great.

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brad wrote:
I was disappointed that what is evidently the wrong switch for the light is being muscled through by his company, look at all the complaints on the switch on this thread.

This was my first 18650 light, and outside of the clearly flawed switch, the light seems great.


I suspect the recessed firm switch was probably chosen on purpose because the threads aren’t anodized for tailcap lock-out. I find that the switch alone is sufficient to prevent accidental activation inside my purse.
brad
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I edc an LD01 on the key chain and an LD12 on the belt, I wouldn’t have thought that people would carry the Xin in a purse.

I bought mine (almost) purely for checking yard noises, and to use single handed while carrying a pistol.

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brad wrote:
I edc an LD01 on the key chain and an LD12 on the belt, I wouldn’t have thought that people would carry the Xin in a purse.

I bought mine (almost) purely for checking yard noises, and to use single handed while carrying a pistol.


Heh, I just wanted a thrower to play with outside. I don’t really need one; I simply wanted one for my own entertainment. I originally got a TK75, but it’s too big for me to carry around without significant inconvenience. So I decided to give it away and find a more compact thrower instead. I considered a HD2010, but decided it’d probably also be too big. One more step down on the recommended thrower list was the XinTD C8, and so far it seems “just right” for my purposes.

Really, I could get by with nothing but my ZL H51w. It serves all my practical needs adequately, and I use its entire range of brightness levels (0.18lm to 172lm) and carrying options (head strap, necklace, clip, magnet, handheld, etc). All the other lights in my collection are toys.

blueb8llz
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ToyKeeper wrote:
brad wrote:
When mine arrived, I complained about the switch, being a contractor and American I was used to tool flaws being fixed for free, and with an apology when they are new and under warranty, but I was told by intl-outdoor to use my index finger and evidently to live with the problem.

Post 38 repaired his purchase from the Chinese company intl-outdoor, but I’m not used to having to repair brand new devices and tools myself, dealing with Chinese retailers is an experience new to me, and not a pleasant one.


I have found that my XinTD C8’s button is harder to press than my other lights, but it seems to be mostly because it’s more recessed without compensating by being less stiff than average. It seems to just come that way standard. It doesn’t really bother me, though it would be kind of nice if it was slightly less recessed.

When I got a couple of “EDC 18650“s from Intl-Outdoor, one arrived with a flaky switch. It worked, sort of, but it acted like there was a short or crack somewhere inside the circuit. I asked Hank if he could do anything about it, and he happily included a free switch with my next order.

The XinTD C8 V3 I got there is mostly flawless, with only two tiny imperfections. It has a small chip missing from the emitter dome, but it isn’t visible in the beam and I can only tell it’s there because of its magnified image in the reflector. It also has some barely-visible streaks in the anti-reflective lens coating, only visible from one specific angle. I’m not planning to request any replacement parts.

Overall it’s a very nice light… good throw, smaller than it looks in pictures, smooth bright hotspot, well-built. It seems to throw a bit better than my Skyray King (22.5k cd) with far less blinding flood, but I don’t have actual lux readings. The throw is about halfway between medium (~14k cd) and high (~39k cd) on my TK75, so I’d guess somewhere in the realm of 25k to 30k cd. Not bad for such a little light.

I got the XM-L U3 1C version, with 3-modes, driven at 140mA, 840mA, and 2800mA. The reflector seems to be about 37mm across (compared to ~41mm in the TK75). Its hotspot seems to be about 30% or 40% bigger than the TK75’s, and has well-defined bright edges.

Anyway, I’m happy with it. Now that I have a pocketable, city-appropriate thrower, I’ll be giving the TK75 to my father for use on his ranch.

which light has the hotspot that is 30-40% bigger than the tk75?

ToyKeeper
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blueb8llz wrote:
which light has the hotspot that is 30-40% bigger than the tk75?

The XinTD C8 V3 has a hotspot which appears roughly a third bigger than the TK75’s hotspot. I haven’t actually measured it though; I’m just estimating visually. The XinTD also has sharp edges on its hotspot, while the TK75 has a smoother transition so it’s harder to find the edge unless it’s moving.

My very rough measurements show the TK75’s reflectors at 41mm across, and the C8’s reflector at about 37mm. I had thought the hotspots would be more similar in size, but the difference is about a third. (so, if the TK75 had a spot 30cm across, the C8 would be about 40cm across)

light junkie
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brad wrote:
I edc an LD01 on the key chain and an LD12 on the belt, I wouldn’t have thought that people would carry the Xin in a purse.

I bought mine (almost) purely for checking yard noises, and to use single handed while carrying a pistol.

same here !

Lj