Simple $5 mod. Talked about it here. Purchased this switch here.
Drilled out the hole to 5/16" to fit the switch. Added an o-ring as a spacer between the stock switch bezel and switch after I took these pictures. Yeah it pulls between 10-20mA (EDIT: Less than 10mA, I think, I can't trust my DMM), but I don't leave the SRK powered up when I'm not using it (I slightly unscrew the head). I will use it as voltage indicator when I do my custom driver.
Hey Jonny,
How was the PV3 series switch, did you try it and not like it? If I wanted to add an illuminated switch to my SK, from looks alone, it would be the PV3.
very nice… does it comes in other colors too?
Richie,
I agree with you on the looks, but unfortunately the PV3 is way too big. You would need to drill out the stock hole (including threads), and it would then interfere with the stock driver. If I could find the same style in 12mm instead of 16mm I would have been all over it.
The RP8100 would fit great actually, but it would still probably cause interference with the driver.
Also, the PV3 has a very long press, so much so that a fat thumb might not even be able to fully depress it. I basically want the same tactile "click" of the stock switch, but illuminated. Sadly the LP1 is a mushy switch, but it will do for now.
Yup, blue, red, green, yellow, and white. Check out the datasheet for forward voltage though. I added a 100 ohm resistor for the LED on this.
Can I please have an idea of how you soldered this beauty?
Like what did you connect the glowing blue LED terminals to?
Any pics of internals for us green-eyed folk?
EDIT:
Yet another question, actually more than one.
Is your switch latching or momentary?
Is it possible to unscrew the housing around that switch? If so, it could be possible to actually put a larger switch in.
I need to do this to my king!
These are some bad pictures, sorry.
On the switch there are obviously 4 connections, 2 for the switch and 2 for the LED. The switch should pull low (ground) when pressed, so I connected the cathode of the LED and one of the switch pins together, then soldered on a black wire. The anode I soldered on a red wire, and the other switch terminal a white wire.
In the middle picture above, the top circle is ground, middle circle the signal (switch), and bottom circle the positive connection with resistor inline. Heat shrink used on all connections.
So basically, the LED is connected directly to the batteries with resistor inline. The switch is connected to the same connection points as the stock switch. When I make a custom driver with NANJG 105C's I will connect the anode of the LED to an output pin of the microcontroller so that I can turn it on and off (I read the datasheet on the ATtiny13a and it says an output pin can power an LED, but we'll see what kind of voltage I get out of it as I couldn't figure that out).
It is momentary.
When you unscrew the switch bezel, you'll find an aluminum button sitting on top of a tactile switch mounted on a circuit board. Once you remove everything, you'll see that the threaded part of the housing is 12mm in diameter, and the hole below that is much smaller (that's what I slightly drilled out to fit the switch). The 8100 12mm switch I bought would fit, but the issue is that if you drill the hole out to 12mm all of the way through, you'll basically be drilling right into the seat of the driver.
Just unscrew the switch bezel and you'll see what I'm talking about.
I could have sworn my switch hole was 14mm… I was looking for a new switch too.
The inside threads are 12mm, the threads of the bezel measure 13mm.
Well, I just ordered this to play with:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251188797431?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
^ but in blue.
Very nice!
:love:
So, uh, quick question. How do you remove the driver? :bigsmile:
Didn't want to just rip it out and risk breaking it.
And also, is the tailcap removable/unscrewable?
The driver is just pressed in. I was able to just pry mine out.
Yes, the tailcap is removable to get access to the board and springs that the batteries come in contact with.
Awww crap… 12mm switch is too small, and I had previously ordered what I thought was a 14mm switch on fleabay (which turned out to really be a 16mm) that was too big.
It’s a 14mm hole, and I can’t find a lighted switch in that size. 
Anyone else have any luck?
Hmmm, where did you get your SRK from?
Mine was from Ric-CN (fancyflashlights/CNQG) and there's no way that the hole is bigger than 12mm.
My switch is still on it's way. If it's too small, there's always washers.
Also, the one that I bought is 12mm threaded, 14mm head diameter. See if that helps you.