Somewhere that i can buy fully de-domed Xml's?

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Tiggis
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Somewhere that i can buy fully de-domed Xml's?

Looking for fully de-domed xml leds (sealed) to buy for some nice throwing projects, does anybody if it’s possible to buy some from somewhere?
Doesn’t want to try myself, probably only gonna trash them.. Smile

NightCrawl
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Maybe some private members. They are not available from factory. Gasoline works great for dedoming..

Tiggis
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Gasoline When you de-dome? Put the led in gasoline?

NightCrawl
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Yup. There are some fluids that work well, but it depends on the ingredients, so you cant know for sure. Acetone is not the same everywhere for example.. gasoline works slow but well.

AlexGT
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could you explain the gasoline method?

ChibiM
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yes, I tried to de-dome one led.. and I failed..
it did work, but I saw a bit silicone left on the edge, so took it off, and then the light didnt come on anymore

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Check with Scaru. He can probably supply them in matched sets of 7 each. Dedomed by superheated vaporization.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Check with Scaru. He can probably supply them in matched sets of 7 each. Dedomed by superheated vaporization.

heheh… scaru, the man that saw the light. for a second. he was blinded by a white wall
NightCrawl
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AlexGT wrote:
could you explain the gasoline method?

I filled a schnaps glass with gasoline, dropped the XML in it and when I looked at it 12 hours later, the dome fell of and almost all of the silicone was gone, except for a little bit around the bond wires. Dont try to scrape it off, you will kill the bond wires. Wink

AlexGT
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does gasoline affect the phosphor layer or substrate in any way?

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I'm certainly no expert on this, but the way I do them is in an electric skillet.

I set the die in there and turn it on like I was gonna reflow but without the PCB.   About 375F is where I set the skillet.    It needs to cook a minute or two so the dome pops off easy and doesnt leave much behind.

I pull it off with a pair of hemos, you just have to make sure the wires are pointing up if your hemos pinch from the sides.

To remove what little residue is left, while its still hot I run a tooth pick around the edge of the platform ( not on the die).   Just stay away from the side where the wires are.

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dct73
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Use gasoline or acetone as stated above. No reason to hack it off with a knife or rip it off with a pliers, unless you just have to have it right now.

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NightCrawl wrote:

AlexGT wrote:
could you explain the gasoline method?

I filled a schnaps glass with gasoline, dropped the XML in it and when I looked at it 12 hours later, the dome fell of and almost all of the silicone was gone, except for a little bit around the bond wires. Dont try to scrape it off, you will kill the bond wires. Wink

What's the octane rating?

Sorry, I had to ask.Wink

You're a brave soul, crazy, but brave. Just don't forget and drink what's in the schnaps glass.Surprised

I just pop the dome off by pinching a little with two finger nails and pull up very fast. Works pretty good so far.

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vestureofblood
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AlexGT wrote:
does gasoline affect the phosphor layer or substrate in any way?

I was thinking the same thing.   Kinda seems like the gas would leave a film on the die to (like when you spill it in water).

I'd like to see a controlled test done on the two methods.  Output before de-doming on each emitter then output afterward.

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Tecmo
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scaru said gasoline took off some of his phosphor. I haven’t heard anything bad about using acetone, but I don’t have any so I just pry off mine.

scaru
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Tecmo wrote:
scaru said gasoline took off some of his phosphor. I haven't heard anything bad about using acetone, but I don't have any so I just pry off mine.

Yeah, it's been a while since I tried to dissolve the stuff off of it. I personally have found that a bit of denatured alcohol also will work fine. I'll admit I am the only person I know of to have a problem with it so I say go ahead with it and give it a shot. 

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give it a shot. :Sp

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biggulp
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I heat up the sides of dome with a soldering iron and gently pry it with a screwdriver. Great success rate so far.

crnkin
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I soak it in petrol overnight then take it out with pliers and blow the small dusty bits of silicone off.

The dome comes off within the first hour, but its the rest that seems to take the time. It doesnt all come off at once in the petrol.

Have done heaps now, after stuffing 5 up with the heating method.

Chris

Tiggis
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Seems easy.. in Sweden we call it T-Röd. Smile

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Old-Lumens wrote:
NightCrawl wrote:
AlexGT wrote:
could you explain the gasoline method?
I filled a schnaps glass with gasoline, dropped the XML in it and when I looked at it 12 hours later, the dome fell of and almost all of the silicone was gone, except for a little bit around the bond wires. Dont try to scrape it off, you will kill the bond wires. Wink
What's the octane rating?Sorry, I had to ask.WinkYou're a brave soul, crazy, but brave. Just don't forget and drink what's in the schnaps glass.SurprisedI just pop the dome off by pinching a little with two finger nails and pull up very fast. Works pretty good so far.

I dont know if it helps but aviation fuel here has the highest octane rating and still has lead in it. If using this method it would be highly advisable to not have any ignition items close by near the fumes and that includes any naughty people that still do this, smoking.

 

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NightCrawl
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@AlexGT: accidentially left an XPG in gasoline for 3 days. Didnt hurt the substrate.

@OL: Octane rating was 95. Thats the lowest we have in Germany. Thanks for your concern, but no worries, I always test my schnaps with a lighter, if it burns, I dont drink it. Silly

@vesture: Gasoline with 95 octane vaporizes without any residues. And people did such tests.. you lose about 20-30% lumens but gain a lot lux.

@MRsDNF: We only have lead free gasoline in Germany since about 15 years.

 

Also, there is a difference between acetone and gasoline. Acetone dissolves the dome faster but not completely. Gasoline takes considerably longer but completely cleans the LED.

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Thanks for this info. Hope I can remember this when I start my next mod. Wink

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Thnx for the info guys!

How much +- tint do you lose when dedoming? If you want to end up with a 5000K colour after dedoming, what what tint do you need to start? 0A/0D/1A/1D?

If you dedome a XML 1A and you dedome a XML 3C, will they have the same colour, or will the dedomed XML 3C be warmer than the dedomed XML 1A?

Thnx

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NightCrawl
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Rough number: you move two numbers up. 1C->3C. 1A->3A. 0D->2D.

Not always, but thats exact enough for me.

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Thanx for all these info. I’ve just removed the MPCB off my K40 and it is now being ‘marinated’ in gasoline. I’ll leave it in a safe place and observe the results tomorrow as its almost midnight here. I just hope I’ll get positive results. Smile

I’m gonna boost the throw of my K40. J)

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Nightbird95 wrote:
Thanx for all these info. I’ve just removed the MPCB off my K40 and it is now being ‘marinated’ in gasoline. I’ll leave it in a safe place and observe the results tomorrow as its almost midnight here. I just hope I’ll get positive results. Smile

I’m gonna boost the throw of my K40. J)

Slewflash 

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I wondered if you could buy them de-domed as well. It would be great to get de-domed emitters direct from Cree! It would save them having to put the domes on in the first place…

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benz wrote:
I wondered if you could buy them de-domed as well. It would be great to get de-domed emitters direct from Cree! It would save them having to put the domes on in the first place…

Or we can ask them to make flat domes lenses, protection for the phosphor and same results than dedomed

Mooooooo