What kinds of switch mode you like best on the led torch：push, press or touch?
Magnetic control ring.^^
There seems to be some disagreement as to “Forward” vs. “Reverse”, so I don’t use those terms. Ditto for “tactical”, whatever THAT means!
What I prefer is a switch that Makes the electrical contact before the “click” locks it down. That used to be called “Make before Break”, IIRC. I call it “Momentary ON” because that’s what it does. You can press it enough to turn the circuit ON without committing to locking the switch On.
What we always GET is “Momentary OFF”, where it must be ON in order for the Momentary part to work, turning the circuit OFF. AKA “Break before Make”… IIRC, of course. I call this “Reverse” because it seems “backwards”, to me, to what most people seem to want from their flashlight switches.
I have converted several “usual” torches (501b’s, C8’s) to this “Momentary ON”, and people to whom I show it, want it. Most don’t care, of course, but those that do, tend to like the ability to “blink” with the switch, even if they refuse to consider the torch due to “disco” strobe mode.
(Want a bag of old switches?? Please?)
Yes, the way you guys change the modes becomes a little more “think-y” — you have to think about what you’re doing and what Mode you want when you pick it up. That’s easier than it sounds, to do.
NOW if we could just lose all the “mode memory” confusion & always come on in the highest, best mode possible…
But really, jimmychen, THANK YOU FOR ASKING!!! So few of your “led bulb manufacture” peers seem to care.
Dim
In what context and could you offer up a definition for your available options, as in what is your understanding of the differences between them?
Dimbo, the type of switch you like is called a forward clickie. It comes on before it clicks into the on position.
The reverse clicky that is prevalent is cheaper to manufacturer and comes on only after it is clicked and the finger pressure released.
A tactical switch from what I understand is a forward clicky that protrudes beyond the end of the light making it easier to turn on in a ‘tactical’ situation. A light with a tactical switch can not tailstand and can potentially turn on accidentally in a bag if the switch is depressed.
Personally, the switch of the XinTD, C8 has really pissed me off over the last few months since it requires a BIT of force and only the tips of my fingers to turn the light on. If I could replace it with a tactical version, I’d do so in a heart beat! The switch of the Roche F12 is A LOT easier to access and press and is still recessed in the tailcap enough to reduce accidental activation.
More and more, lately, I have been gravitating towards lights with “tactical” forward clicky’s and a cigar grip ring. The biggest beef with these is the inability to tailstand. This is not a concern to me since I have never had a need to tailstand a light, and have at least eighty lights that can perform this feat.
I have some forward clicky’s switches coming in the mail to install in a couple of lights. My question is: to make it a “tactical” clicky, do you need to buy a special switch with a longer button, or is it a special “boot” with an interior extension?
Count me as one who likes the momentary on switch. I also dislike “next mode” memory. I know it may be too much to ask for on a budget light, so current mode memory may be out, but at least have it reset at either the highest or lowest mode. I hate having to scroll through SOS and Strobe.
What exactly is your definition of "push" and "press"? Sounds like the same exact thing IMO.
What do you mean by "touch"? Are you referring to a capacitive electronic switch that simply needs to make skin contact?
I prefer a reverse clicky switch in a light with modes Far easier to switch through modes.
I prefer a forward clicky in either a single mode light or in a light where the mechanical switch is a secondary switch and modes are controlled via a second electronic switch or a magnetic control ring.
A capacitive (touch) switch would be a real pain in the ass. Wouldn't work with gloves on. May act wonky if wet. Would come on accidentally all the time if touched.
I know some manufacturers are going to stop producing magnetic control ring switches thanks to the A-holes at Surefire being granted sweepingly wide patents on vague ideas. They are now litigating their competition out of business since they are unable to compete in the open market with their overpriced POS dim sticks. This is bordering on criminal since their patent is so vague as to essentially state any light that is controlled by any device near the head of the light was their idea first. The magnetic control ring is the greatest thing to happen to flashlights and something they (surefire) have yet to properly use in a light while everyone else that has has created a gem of a light.
You can get them to tailstand, but Crelant V9CS is a good example of this.
Personally I prefer forward clickies, but only on lights that don’t use the power switch to change modes.
I really like the two-stage switch on my Nitecore EA4W.
I think everyone likes a forward clicky vs a reverse clicky but almost none like it in a multi mode light and most forwards don't tailstand which again most people want too.
A micro switch on the side, a forward clicky on the tail...and the ability to tailstand would be my preference
Crazy I know ... asking for it all
That is exactly how I like it.
I would also ad that I like the UI on the Fenix lights. One button for ON/OFF and the other button is for changing modes.
A magnetic ring isn't bad either though. (I just wish ThruNite marked the modes better)
^^ This! Or a magnetic control ring + forward clicky.
=> Forward clicky for on/off, something else to change modes.
THIS kind.
its range includes “is that actually on” to high, and 22 levels inbetween.
BUT - it needs twice as much travel, to make obtaining the perfect level easier, and it needs to be on a 9 emitter, 80W light, shaped like the terminator but using 26650s.
:bigsmile:
personally I would do back flips if forward clickies did not exist, I have one light that has this and it annoys the crap out of me. It will be getting dumped asap.
Reverse clicky does what I need, on any light greater than one cell in line the switch should be side clicky.
I would like to see a button like what they have on some computer mice. The middle button where you can depress, which would be used for on/off of the flashlight. Then you can move the button up/down (or left/right which is found on computer mice) to change modes. Not scroll-wheel movement, but the movement of the middle-button where you can push it left or right (usually found on most newer Logitech mice).
I think that would be my ideal button interface. It could also be neatly hidden under a rubber cap so it won’t be a point of entrance for dirt/water.
Until you lose your magic ring!
(PS: Thanks for making me stop thinking about the “just pick it up and it comes on” idea! We seldom wear gloves “down here”… )
I have to agree with the “reverse” clicky in “mode memory” lights. It turns out, I really just don’t like “mode memory”!! Modes are fine, just come on at the first touch of the switch, in the mode I want. How hard is that? 
Sorry for the OT wandering, but the best mode control I’ve used yet is from my original Fenix LT1. It had the wrong switch, but the modes change by twisting the head. So the switch just turns it On or Off! Needless to say (if you remember the L1T…) it never saw “Low” mode except to test the batteries!!
The Ultrafire U20S changes groups this way, and likewise comes on in “Full ON” when fully tight. The “loose head” group includes a nice flickery-rave strobe. It may be a lucky break, but mine comes on in “strobe” when I loosen the head, so I get the best of both worlds! The “reverse clicky” is the only thing besides the price keeping me from loving this!!
Well, as usual it’s too…
Dim
I likes my buttons on the clicky side.
I’ve been of this mind set, but now that I have a few more forward clickies I’m not as annoyed by them as I used to be.
On the one hand, if your light comes on the way you prefer (high or low) and that is what you will normally use, then a reverse clicky let’s you change it more easily after it is on.
But if you are likely to vary the mode - or pick a different than standard mode - then a forward clicky starts to make sense so that you can pick the level before you turn it on. This especially makes more sense to me with a light that comes on high, when I want to start with a lower setting. It also makes some sense when the light has mode memory and you want a different level (or have forgotten what level it is set on).
Now, while side clicky lights can be comfortable to operate while you are carrying them, some of them are frustrating when you have to find which side the switch is on - while with a rear clicky it is pretty fast to find in almost any orientation.
I like forward clicky lights. I don’t have any issues even if it is a multimode. I just momentary press to switch to the mode I need.