It's not done yet and I don't like how the larger fin that butts up against the head looks. I may change it yet. I haven't decided. The body end is machined to accept one of the giant HX 1175b which drives an XM-L2 at 7 amps. I'll also be making a two cell body at some point.
I was going to wait to post this up until it was completly done, but another (Super Secret) project came in the mail that has priority. I have to say that my new 2mm parting/grooving tool from Glanse in UK works much better than the one I was using.
If anyone wants something like this pill made, shoot me a PM.
Ok Ok, I’m kidding Geesh! Let’s not everybody get their panties all in a wad!
Looks good from here Buck, I see what you mean about the wider top portion but all in all it looks ready for business. Edit: On second thought, the wider portion of copper butting into the existing head makes sense, gives an entry position instead of trying to be a continuance of the existing fins…thinking about what it’d look like otherwise I think it might be best just like it is. That and a Nickel and you’re still shortchanged. J)
Which HD2010 is that? Tangsfire by any chance? Old-lumens will want to know about it’s build quality as will many of the rest of us…he’s working on putting together a group buy and will be checking out 3 different versions to see which is the best way to go. Pretty sure he’ll be stopping by…
Glad the new tool is working out well, takes some stress out of a tedious operation I’m sure.
It's the no-name 2010 from Tmart. Build quality was decent. It had a couple of dings on the head and the threads on the bezel are squeaky tight, but otherwise was pretty good. I did not bother to check it's operation at all before stripping out the LED and driver.
That's beautiful. Does the mcpcb actually mount to this? If so, then hell yeah I want one built. Not for a little while though. I'm already extending myself pretty far on flashlight projects right now. Maybe later next month.
An extension to this project would be machining the side of the pill to accept a side clickie. Given the extra weight your copper pill adds to the front of the light, using the rear clickie may be uncomfortable.
Nice machine work again Bucket. When time avails can you post some more pictures up? What 2mm parting of tool did you get? I was going to ask where DBC was but I should of guessed.
Oh lordy, that's fantastic. Do you keep most of the pill solid or bore it out? Wondering about deck thickness... I assume the b driver is approximately the same depth as the c driver?
The deck thickness is .745", extending roughly to the bottom of the head. All of the finned area is hollow due to the gigantic size of the driver. I even had to sand a bit of the pcb diameter to get it to fit within the threaded portion. The wall thickness is decent though and should transfer heat well. I'm too lazy to go get my calipers right now. I'll post wall thickness on the morrow if you like.
I'd also like to add that a LOT of heat should transfer into the head. These 1.0mm pitch threads are pretty fine and I was very careful to make them just fit. Half of a thousandth made the difference between one pass where it didn't screw into the head and the next where it did.
That's enough detail for me. I thought the walls would already transfer enough heat, but I like it a lot better without the pill fully bored since it'll act as a sink if it can't dissipate enough heat. More pictures would be nice...no such thing as too much porn, right?
Have you tried using C145 tellurium copper? It has a machinability rating of 85-90, when compared to pure copper’s rating of only 20. Tellurium copper doesn’t really give up anything measurable in thermal/electrical conductance, but is way easier to machine.
