Bushnell TRKR t1000L 9X-AA White/Red/Blue Light

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Strick9
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A new light I found at Walmart; 49.97

When I flipped the package and saw a 9th battery on the back, I figured it must have a carrier for 3X3.

Interesting…

Quote:
TRKR LED’s are specifically engineered to display blue light with a trace amount of red light. When combined, this unique balance of color enhances the visibility of red fluids, such as blood, making it ideal for hunting.

Tap Tap Tap… the lens is plastic; but the reflector and inside of the lens is super clean; no scratches at all. Thumbs up for quality control.

Side switch. Lightly tap it for a quick flash (nice way to check the batteries); continuing to tap it will cycle White-Red-Blue-etc.
Half-press will give you a momentary on (starting with white, half-press to change to red, or again to blue); light will go off when you release the switch.
Full/Clicky presses will cycle White-Red-Blue… after about 4-5 seconds of being off, it will default back to white.
Full presses take a smidge of effort, should be just enough to keep it from turning on accidentally if it’s bouncing around your car/tool-box/whatever.
Simple; excellent for a big-box store light.

I don’t know if it’s HA3, but the anodizing is as good as a Mag-Lite (that’s a compliment); color is very consistent, printing is nice and clean… good job!

Threads are nice and clean, cap is very easy to screw on/off. If you’ve bought too many cheapie lights, this might be a nice reminder of how a properly machined tail-cap should work.

Battery carrier is decent quality; it’s not quite as nice as a Sunwayman, but it’s definitely better than the crappy carriers you find in a typical 3X-AAA light.

Close-up; note the wire running the length of the carrier.

Inside the tail-cap. I can’t show you inside the head as it must be secured with Loc-Tite… it’s not budging!

All the batteries face the same way… no battery placement gymnastics is a plus. It takes a just a touch of squeezing to pop them in, no issues there.

The carrier sticks out just a bit, I put the arrows pointing at the edge of the tube in case it’s hard to see in the picture (I put a bit of Super-Lube on the threads).
If you push on the carrier end, you can feel a bit of resistance from a spring. Cap screws on easily, and securely.
Shake the light like a “Shake-Weight”… there’s no battery/carrier rattle at all. None!
I haven’t turned it on, and I’m already impressed.

Here’s an experiment to try and demonstrate what the colors look like.
The white is so blinding, it freaks out the camera sensor, so this picture doesn’t properly show what it really looks like to your eyes.
The white is bright! Impressive for a handful of AAs.

Red…

Blue (with a hint of red as described above)… I was wondering if there might be a hint of UV, but then you should be able to see the stripe on the $20 bill. Nope.

Red…

Blue-Red…

Crummy ceiling bounce; it’s just too bright for my cell-phone camera’s sensor to deal with.
The flood is brighter and more useful than this picture shows.

Picture of emitter…

It tail-stands, but not so securely; but that’s OK as it head-stands nicely. No lanyard hole, but I don’t think anyone puts them on lights of this size.

Just enough knurling for a good grip; pushing the button with gloves on would easy.

Size comparison next to a Home Depot Defiant Super-Thrower.

I like it a lot.
If it had a Low-Med-High for the white, it’d be perfect (OK, and maybe a glass lens would be nice); but otherwise, it’s an excellent light.
The build quality puts the Home Depot Defiant lights to shame.
AA means you can use some of those Eneloops everyone bought on clearance at Target; so no Alkaline leakage if you throw it in the trunk of your car. Smile
It’s a keeper!

zach8935
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now i have to buy on. lol

now i have to buy on. lol

Strick9
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A bit of effort with a strap

A bit of effort with a strap wrench, and I was able to get the head off.

Uh-Oh, what’s with the wires…
…I see, they’re for the colored LEDs.
Oops Sad

Well, I see where the wires are supposed to go through.

Now I have to figure out how to get under the emitter plate, so I can resolder the wire connections.
Advice, anyone?

bushwhacked
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Nice light with an xm-l2. As

Nice light with an xm-l2. As for getting the emitter out try to pry the plate on left side of the last picture, the spot with the cutaway. Looks like the emitter plate is pressed in.

Strick9
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Took the head apart, and got the emitter out...

Three screws hold the circuit board for the colored LEDs in the head; the reflector is plastic, although seems to be a good quality plastic.
I can’t twist/pry the reflector/lens out of the head. I think it’s glued/pressed in permanently.

OK, a plastic ring (arrows) screws inside the body and keeps the emitter plate secure. It was easy once I figured it out.

Looks like a ram sink for a stick of PC memory; and there’s a bit of thermal paste/adhesive under the LED.

Green arrows: the wires I pulled when I twisted the head off.
Red arrows: it looks like they melted a bit of the plastic sleeve that secures the circuit board (and switch) to keep the board permanently in place.
I’m not having any luck pressing the plastic sleeve/switch mechanism out from either end of the body of the light. Sad

OK, I can’t get far enough inside the body to resolder new wires to the board (besides not knowing where they should go, but trial and error could answer that question).
So if I was able to do that, next is put the emitter plate back in the tube, the put then retaining ring back in to secure the emitter, then rescrew the colored LED board back into the head.

After partially reassembling it, and simply sticking the wires through the plate hole to take the picture…
It takes multiple turns to reattach the head to the body, more than enough to rip the wires off again as they’re going to wrap around the base of the reflector.
Maybe this is crazy, but I think in manufacturing, the head is already screwed to the body, they solder the wires to the colored LED board, and drop in the entire lens/reflector/color LED assembly from the top to stay that way forever.

I’m going to consider this experiment a sacrifice to the flashlight gods, as I won’t be able to put Humpty-Dumpty back together again.
If anyone picks up this light, don’t remove the head!

HBomb
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Easiest thought was “Maybe

Easiest thought was “Maybe just add some extra length to the wires with new ones or splicing?”

Strick9
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Quote:Easiest thought was

Quote:
Easiest thought was “Maybe just add some extra length to the wires with new ones or splicing?”

I considered that, but those 3 solder points are a few inches inside the body, they’re practically right next to each other, one is covered in molten plastic from securing the circuit board to the tube; it’s too tight to maneuver the solder/iron/wires in that space.

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