Solarstorm SC01 disassembly

31 posts / 0 new
Last post
RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 5 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway
Solarstorm SC01 disassembly

Some never managed to shut up about these lights. So I had to order one.  Big Smile

Actually, I ordered an SC02 a bit later. Because reasons.

No one seemed to be able to open it up the SC01 (or any of these lights?) So here I am.. To the rescue.. Maybe..

Got this puppy today.

 

Not what I would consider sufficient amount of thermal paste, but way better than nothing.

After some more gentle attempts.. Tried to pull and twist it out like this. The switch may not have liked it.. but oh well..

I didn't get anything out.

*poof, magic*

Hey, got the pill out.. See, no scratches. Smile Oh, don't mind the angle of the switch.. Its supposed to be like that. yupp.

Ok, maybe I made a little scratch. It will buff out.. If not, consider it art. Yin and Yang. Smile

15,5mm driver

It looks like a mess. (small aluminium pieces may have come from the "scratch")

Summary based on my little teardown.


-This light have a pill. Its press fit. A very tight tight press fit.

-A 14-15mm wide rod with some length + hammer from battery compartment MIGHT have easily pushed the pill out. (or completely crushed the driver)

-Does not like like you can resistor mod it or do much about the driver.

-The third wire that was mounted on the star is ground. Light seemed to work without it.

-Most of the inside of the light is anodized, not many places to get ground from as it is.

 

1st impression regarding mod potential:

- It will require some work.

- Make a 10mm FET driver and connect it to stock switch on top of the 15,5mm driver. Rebuild pill with cooper if you, ehm, "scratch" the pill.

- Rebuild with 17mm driver, custom pill, and a triple star with carlco optics. Bezel opening is 19,33mm. Perfect for a triple. If you rebuild to a triple, it seems like its possible to use a 17mm driver below it. That might become my approach, but I have many other projects before that.

- Wait until you make a second impression and get other ideas.

(picture showing 17mm driver fit inside the switch compartment.

Hope this was useful for you in some way.

Beer

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Edited by: RaceR86 on 04/25/2014 - 14:15
NLE
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 8 months ago
Joined: 02/25/2013 - 20:59
Posts: 95
Location: Canada

Nice! Thanks for this.

Helios-
Helios-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 01/18/2012 - 21:12
Posts: 2099
Beer


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

Racer
Racer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 1 month ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:39
Posts: 1792
Location: Hillsboro, OR

Awesome, thank you! My friend claimed my SC01 and the missus claimed my SC02, but I still have and actually use the SC03 because it’s so light and cheap to the point where it’s disposable. I’ve been wanting to dip my toes into modding and the SC series seems like a good starting point because they have so much potential and fall just short of being a superb light in my opinion. The beam profile, tint and output were all very good on the samples I got. The SC03 puts out better looking light than my 1st gen V11R for 1/8th what I paid for it. But the low frequency PWM is an absolute deal breaker for anything other than a total beater.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3613
Location: California

Looks like the interior is also built somewhat like the Olight S series. The Olights also had press-fit pills that socketed into place with no threads.

However, the Olight pills are relatively loose. Doesn’t take much effort to press them in or out.

Chloe
Chloe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/30/2013 - 14:14
Posts: 4595
Location: 联合王国

Thanks for the pics! The burrs on the star, I’d be inclined to take it apart just to clear them. :~

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 3736
Location: Ohio

When I disassembeled the olight s15 I had PC’d pink for my wife I ripped a piece of silicone that was a “nub” on the button that made contact with the switch and had to rig it, is there any such possibility of that happening on this one?

Also on the S15 I pressed the pill out from the back, just sayin, it seemed to work well (except for the button issue).

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 5 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Cereal_killer wrote:
Also on the S15 I pressed the pill out from the back, just sayin, it seemed to work well (except for the button issue).

Yupp, I have already edited a line and made that bit more clear.

When I "opened up" this light, I wast even sure it was a pill that could be pushed out. So I tried my gentle approach. Innocent

One time, long time ago, I crushed a driver going in from the back. Because you had to unscrew something from the front first. It was a junk driver, so no harm done. Smile

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3613
Location: California
RaceR86 wrote:

Cereal_killer wrote:
Also on the S15 I pressed the pill out from the back, just sayin, it seemed to work well (except for the button issue).

Yupp, I have already edited a line and made that bit more clear.

When I “opened up” this light, I wast even sure it was a pill that could be pushed out. So I tried my gentle approach. Innocent

One time, long time ago, I crushed a driver going in from the back. Because you had to unscrew something from the front first. It was a junk driver, so no harm done. Smile

Reminds me of the time I destroyed the driver in a Jetbeam RRT-01. Accidentally turned the wrong part of the light before desoldering the driver wires from the star. This caused the driver wires to break.

Even worse, the driver was one of those that consisted of 2 stacked boards. The wires were attached to the inside of the bottom board and passed through holes in the top board. I found it impossible to fit even a small soldering iron tip into position so I couldn’t attach fresh driver wires.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 5 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

@ Firelight 2. That was my main reason for ruining scratching the pill. I wanted to take a look at the driver.

Racer wrote:
I've been wanting to dip my toes into modding and the SC series seems like a good starting point because they have so much potential and fall just short of being a superb light in my opinion.

It could became a really nice light when modded, not that it was bad when stock IMO.

I think the host is nice. This is not what I would consider a beginner friendly light to mod though.

The SC02 might be much easier to mod due to its larger size. I wonder how it compares to ZY-T11.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Noctiluco
Noctiluco's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 11/29/2013 - 18:13
Posts: 228
Location: Spain


Thanks for the pictures and data, I'm pushing hard on the driver of my SC01 when I saw your post. I have not yet used the hammer, it is possible that in the end I have to take it.

If I can get the pill without damage, I'll post

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3613
Location: California
RaceR86 wrote:

@ Firelight 2. That was my main reason for ruining scratching the pill. I wanted to take a look at the driver.

Racer wrote:
I’ve been wanting to dip my toes into modding and the SC series seems like a good starting point because they have so much potential and fall just short of being a superb light in my opinion.

It could became a really nice light when modded, not that it was bad when stock IMO.

I think the host is nice. This is not what I would consider a beginner friendly light to mod though.

The SC02 might be much easier to mod due to its larger size. I wonder how it compares to ZY-T11.

Agreed.

From the pictures you posted I feel confident that I could mod one of those to put in a Nanjg 105c with filed down edges and appropriate firmware and switch. It wouldn’t be a beginner level mod though.

MountainKing
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 12/01/2011 - 03:20
Posts: 2268
Location: Lost Islands ™

I’m starting to wonder whether this is the sk68 clone killer/replacement Smile

Never ever forget and forgive. Niwal**er new kid on the block trying to act tough.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24847
Do not support this brand.

DINODIRECTSCAM COMPANY. DO NOT BUY
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11324?page=2#comment-254983

Jerommel
Jerommel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 13:18
Posts: 5721
Location: the Hague, Netherlands

Oh, he made a little scratch there…
“It will buff out” LOL

2Q19

_the_
_the_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 07/08/2011 - 06:22
Posts: 3624
Location: Finland

Cereal_killer wrote:
When I disassembeled the olight s15 I had PC'd pink for my wife I ripped a piece of silicone that was a "nub" on the button that made contact with the switch

That brings some bad memories to my mind. Been there, done that.. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/27834

Reminds me also about the light sitting on the shelf, waiting for an inspiration to fix the switch. Naah, maybe tomorrow. Wink 

=the=

 

Racer
Racer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 1 month ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:39
Posts: 1792
Location: Hillsboro, OR

Maybe you guys will have good luck with the SC02 and I could always repo mine from the missus Smile

Currently I’m infatuated with the Roche F6 which has no detectable PWM and a build quality rivaling more expensive lights. That’s why I coughed up the SC02 so easily.

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 3736
Location: Ohio
the wrote:

Cereal_killer wrote:
When I disassembeled the olight s15 I had PC’d pink for my wife I ripped a piece of silicone that was a “nub” on the button that made contact with the switch

That brings some bad memories to my mind. Been there, done that.. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/27834

Reminds me also about the light sitting on the shelf, waiting for an inspiration to fix the switch. Naah, maybe tomorrow. Wink 

It looks like it may not be an issue with this SC series cause they left a notch in the pill.

To fix mine I just filled in the pill with a little bit of some thick plastic insulating sheet cut to fit (similar to emitter insulators [not centering rings, just the insulating disk material]) if you PM me I can explain more indepth, I was able to fix that one for no cost.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

_the_
_the_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 56 min ago
Joined: 07/08/2011 - 06:22
Posts: 3624
Location: Finland

Cereal_killer wrote:
_the_ wrote:

Cereal_killer wrote:
When I disassembeled the olight s15 I had PC'd pink for my wife I ripped a piece of silicone that was a "nub" on the button that made contact with the switch

That brings some bad memories to my mind. Been there, done that.. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/27834

Reminds me also about the light sitting on the shelf, waiting for an inspiration to fix the switch. Naah, maybe tomorrow. Wink 

It looks like it may not be an issue with this SC series cause they left a notch in the pill. To fix mine I just filled in the pill with a little bit of some thick plastic insulating sheet cut to fit (similar to emitter insulators [not centering rings, just the insulating disk material]) if you PM me I can explain more indepth, I was able to fix that one for no cost.

Thanks. I think I got it. Let's see when I have extra time & motivation to fix it. Smile

Good thing that SC series have the notch there -> makes it possible to remove the pill without breaking the switch, unlike in Olights.

=the=

 

WarHawk-AVG
WarHawk-AVG's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 6 days ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 06:47
Posts: 5065
Location: H-Town

MountainKing wrote:
I’m starting to wonder whether this is the sk68 clone killer/replacement Smile
If they sold them for $5 maybe
A wee bit pricey…but definitely a GREAT general run of the mill AA light for as someone lovingly referred to people as “muggles” (ones not exposed to the power/brightness of Cree emitters yet)

With the difficulty of teardown, this is definitely going to be a “non-beginners” modder light, actually it’s not bad in it’s stock form other than the PWM frequency sucks…but hey all stock Chinese PWM is horrible

and Racer…went all “Mongo” on the pill…heh…love it

Possibly the OSHPark 15mm 15DD would be a good direct drive driver replacement but getting the clicky position would be the difficult part, cool to see a 17mm drops right in sorta

This is one of those “is it really worth it” to tear into it and mod it kinda lights…sure…tinkerers like us LOVE to get in there and “scratch” things Big Smile but would many others even consider it?

And RacerR86 has coined a new phrase here at BLF…if it’s completely trashed and totalled…it’s not destroyed…its “scratched” Big Smile

Racer
Racer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 1 month ago
Joined: 05/07/2013 - 00:39
Posts: 1792
Location: Hillsboro, OR
WarHawk-AVG wrote:
And RacerR86 has coined a new phrase here at BLF…if it’s completely trashed and totalled…it’s not destroyed…its “scratched” Big Smile

“Honey, I scratched the car.”

Chloe
Chloe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/30/2013 - 14:14
Posts: 4595
Location: 联合王国
MountainKing wrote:
I’m starting to wonder whether this is the sk68 clone killer/replacement Smile

But it doesn’t zoom! Shocked

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 17 min ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4539
Location: South Europe

man that driver looks nasty, thanks for the pics Beer

 

18sixfifty
18sixfifty's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 20:19
Posts: 4161

Thanks I’ll have a go at pulling mine apart. I think I have a short someplace, it’s flickering now.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 17 min ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4539
Location: South Europe

How about heating a bit outer casing (with hot water for example), to expand slightly, maybe that would help to push out the pill easier!

 

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12194
Location: LI NY

Funny, was about to report on my take-apart success this eve and came across this thread! I got the pill out of my SC03 by one tap of the hammer on a copper pipe that fit in the battery tube pretty well (1/2" copper pipe with a 16 mm OD). Basically same stuff as above, but no damage really. I measured 15.6 mm for the driver diameter -- that kind of stinks, and also noticed nothing obvious for resistor modding.

Maybe a BLF 15DD could be squeezed in there? Don't think there's clearance. My SC03 has a high parasitic drain, while my SC01 doesn't. I don't see anything obviously wrong with the SC03 driver so far.

 Those screws have nothing but a hollow cylinder shape in the heads - nothing shaped to use a tool on. I was able to get them out with a larger needlenose by gripping them on the outside edge -- weird.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 5 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Nice Tom. I had a feeling a hammer would be the better way (as mentioned in OP) Thanks for verifying.  Any special plans for yours?

 

WarHawk-AVG wrote:
And RacerR86 has coined a new phrase here at BLF...if it's completely trashed and totalled...it's not destroyed...its "scratched" :D

Big Smile

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12194
Location: LI NY

Well, pretty backlogged right now, so may have to put this off for quite a while. Planning on a XM-L2 T6 4C on 16mm copper, better wires. Maybe for me, best option you listed is the 10mm driver stuck in there.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12194
Location: LI NY

Finally (only one year) later got around to finishing the SC01 mod, using a BLF 15DD driver shaved down. Here's some pics of the process/parts:

Blue wire on left is for the switch, blue wire on the right is to fix the trace I destroyed:

The short black wire near the top is an extra ground wire, jammed in between the SinkPAD and edge of pill:

Where the "K" was in SinkPAD was an attempt to make a spot to solder the grnd wire to. That didn't work - just could not get solder to stick to the SinkPAD at all. Think the heat is taken away so quick you can't solder to it - that's what I'm guessing:

 

The LED is an XM-L2 T5 5B1 (my favorite tint). With a WindyFire 14500,I measured 3.85A at the tail:

Turbo lumens: 1003 @start, 874 @30 secs, throw: 8.5 kcd (184 meters)

moon: 4 lumens, lo: 52 lumens, med: 129 lumens, hi: 394 lumens

With my custom switch software, it has 5 nice modes, click goes from moon to turbo, hold goes from turbo down to moon, long hold is strobe. Current mode locks in by 1-2 secs, so click from ON turns the light OFF. But even when locked in, a hold will decrement the mode.

This is really nice light now - great tint, great power. I wish I got this mod done sooner. No idea if anyone else out there has modded one of these like this with a piggyback driver, but if I were to go it again (which I will), I'll use a 12mm DD driver instead - fitting that 15mm shaved like that was a real PIA. I actually filed/sanded thru a trace and had to add a replacement wire. I ordered 12mm DD boards to do the SC03 with.

Both my SC01 and SC03 had died - both had stock driver problems.

Missing from the pics is some details:

  • on the bare stock driver, I had to add extensions using thin copper strip (from a copper sheet) to get access to the batt + and switch connection, because the angled in BLF15DD board blocked the pads.
  • I used Arctic Alumina epoxy to set the driver assembly into the pill - little was used at the base of the BLF15DD to secure it to the stock drivers, and more was used on the top edge of the switch board to secure it into the pill top (original stock setup was like that too)
  • I added a ground wire (like there was originally) to be sure I got a better ground than from the mount of the stock driver (jammed the wire against the pill).

Edit 05/11: 12mm OSHPark boards arrived today. Will size one up for the SC03.

 

chenko
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 05/28/2012 - 11:30
Posts: 611
Location: Italy

Nice work!! I still have a stock SC01 around, love the size and tint but can’t stand the UI. I have no skills in modding nor time, and could never figure which parts to get either, so it will be gifted someday. I envy modders’ skill so much.

Jerommel
Jerommel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 13:18
Posts: 5721
Location: the Hague, Netherlands

I just dug up mine after all this time.
It was a cheap deal from Banggood at the time with the XM-L in it, in stead of the promised XM-L2.
We gave Neal a hard time about that i.i.r.c.

It’s actually quite a good looking light.

So i dig up this topic too, because i have never really used the SC01 because of the gruesome PWM
But i just popped out the pill from the rear with a piece of tube, so i guess i’m looking for a better driver, or at least one without that dreadful low PWM frequency…
But i have no idea where to look for a suitable driver…
…and i guess it’s impossible to tune that PWM frequency up..?

2Q19

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12194
Location: LI NY

Yep, can't tweak the PWM in the stock driver and can't replace the drive, unless someone could do an OSHPark design to match the foot print, and transfer the switch board, and then hopefully, the bigger thickness of an OSHPark driver could be worked out some how.

That's why I went the route I did with the angled piggybacked driver. Did the same mod with a OTR M3.