HID Host Conversion to MT-G2: Almost Done...Battery Carrier Installed, Light Tested. (post #46) beamshots

In another thread I asked if I should rip the guts out of this HID host with an ice pick.

I've included a few pictures from that thread for continuity of this build.

That nylon/plastic bushing wouldn't come out, and the whole guts seem to be encased in epoxy.

I tried drilling, but there was no way it was coming out. Comfychair pointed out that heat softens plastic.

Soften...hell...I set it on fire. Whatever it is, it burned like a can of sterno for thirty five minutes.

After yanking out carbon and crusty components, the whole plug of epoxy came out.

This HID light doesn't have any heat sinking, just the thin aluminum battery tube.

This copper fitting looked about right, so I cut in two.

It's a tad too big, so I cut it lengthwise so it could compress.

I really had to sledge hammer to get it in. It's not coming back out...ever.

You can see where the gap reunited.

Now for some heat sinking

I just about wore my arm off cutting through this copper bar stock.

Lots of hand filing.

Before I pounded in the copper slug, I coated the edges and the inside with solder paste. With all that copper, I thought my torch was going to run out of gas before the solder melted.

Nice and shiny.

I used a step bit to widen the reflector hole so it would fit over a 20mm MTG Noctigon.

Of course now I have to add more copper to reach the height of the reflector. More cutting and filing and soldering.

There's over 5oz. Of copper in there.

I broke one bit trying to drill wire holes through all that copper. It was taking me ages. I was even throwing it in the freezer.

I PM'd Old Lumens, and he suggested lubricating with WD40. That did the trick.

Okay. Here's where I feel really stupid.

Next I wanted to fit a battery carrier and figure out how to add a switch to the back end.

What the hell! Did this host shrink?

Fully compressed I can only get the cap to come within a couple mm of the threads. What's going on here. I never checked the tube length before I started. What for? Custom cells? I dropped the cells inside with no carrier, and the cap just screws down.

If I don't figure this mess out, this build will be a great big FAIL.

I'm too tired and hungry to think about this anymore. I'm going to have nightmares.

Reserved in case I solve the battery problem.

EDIT: See Post #30

Simple! Use the same handsaw and worn out arm, and cut those cells!
Sorry to see the problem, hope you find a solution. Pity to loose that good job in the front due to that problem in the “bottom”

Your can of “stereo” shrank because of the flames?
I’m guessing the copper sleeve is too long

No, the sleeve is inside the original part of the pill. The battery area is the same as stock.

Love your copper work man. Best wishes on finding a solution. Backing away for a bit sounds like a good idea.

Oops. Slightly bad news. Stock light uses 18500’s in a carrier.

Refer to these links:
http://www.flashlightcool.com/HID-Series/Wolf-Eyes/Boxer-10W-Series/Boxer-10W-123X-Compare.html (yours is the middle one)
Wolf-Eyes Li-ion LRB 150A? | Candle Power Flashlight Forum (says it’s an 18500)
大龙网_跨境电商B2B商机平台_移动端跨境贸易新体验 (looks like an 18500!)

18500 was going to be my next thought. I have two efest IMR18500, but only 1100 mAH. I think the Wolfeyes cells are just Sanyo 18500 with a protection circuit.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004184/1315401-authentic-sanyo-ur18500fk-18500-1700mah-3-7v
Not a lot of capacity for MTG…but no choice.
I’ll have to play around with my carrier for a bit.
Any suggestions on shortening it up. If I cut the connecting rods I’ll lose the interior threading…I think. Haven’t had time to look. I doubt those rods are threaded all the way through.
My brain hurts.

You’re worse than my grade four teacher.
Spelling corrected: stereo=sterno.
Damn that auto fill!

Does it have to be a metal rod on the carrier, and/or get some brass rod equivalent from lowes, cut to length, file down the ends to a thinner diameter, solder em in

Measure twice, cut once, cuss once :wink:

Thanks for that link on the 18500’s…

Behind that big flat slab of copper how much extra room is there for a driver, could you possibly use the potting method to fill in behind it for a bit more added thermal mass
silicon carbide and 30 min epoxy

I have a feeling this build is going to be SWEEEEET!

The rods have to be conductive so I can add a switch to the carrier. They need to conduct ground to the top of the carrier.
Early days on this thought process. Some copper or brass rods would make things simple. Do you have a link to Lowes? I’m not sure if I’ll find them in Canada.

As far as more thermal mass, I think I have enough. The thin battery tube will not be able to disperse it fast enough as it is. Once the copper absorbs all the heat, it will act as a bed of coals. I’m also worried about the batteries getting too toasty.

I’m hoping to install an HX-1175b 7A buck driver. I’m pretty sure I left enough room. This mod is pretty close to a scratch build. I’m just making it up as I go along, as noted by my surprise when the cells didn’t fit. No wonder this light is obsolete. Brand new they went for close to $400, with 1800 lumens.

This is where I get all my brass rod for battery carriers, not sure if they ship up there tho but extremely fast shipping here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390796958081?\_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

his ebay store-
http://www.ebay.com/usr/omnimodels?\_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Could you tap the existing rods deeper before cutting them?

No. They’re very small diameter, and I’d have to drill a hole into the center before tapping. (of which I have no experience) It should be fairly simple with brass or copper rods, but not easily available to me in Canada. I’ll have to wait for some new cells anyway.

It still bugs me though. Who ever heard of a 18500 flashlight?

What about 18350, since you still need to add a switch too?

No hobby shops or RC shops around? They usually have most of the brass and copper tubing. Most likely, you will have to use different screws, because of tube ID. A hobby or RC shop should also have all the small screws and the taps too. 2mm, 3mm, etc.

Pre-made standoffs are available with threaded holes. What length do you need?

What is the smallest ID of the tube?

3 x 18350 would be too small of capacity to run MTG at 7A. Not a big deal, I can get 18500 no problem. In for a penny, in for a pound.
I don’t know of any RC or hobby shops in Toronto, but I have never looked. I just discovered my dilemma last night, so I really haven’t searched around. Things like brass rod are carried by HD in the US, but not at HD in Canada.
I should look to see if there are any RC shops. I might find all kinds of goodies.
Toronto is big with heavy traffic, if something you need is on the far side, it can be cheaper paying postage from the states.

I do have direction now. I know what needs to be done. When those 18650 didn’t fit last night, I was flabbergasted.

Do you have any links wight? I’m at work, so I don’t have any dimensions.
I really need to make more measurements on the tube, and I should wait til I get the cells I’m going to use before I start building anything. Actually, it should be easy. I just need to find the materials.

If you can fix the carrier try these. http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10008948/1793603-authentic-panasonic-ncr18500-3-7v-2000mah

I am worse, my intention was not to correct you but to make fun of you :stuck_out_tongue: