Zebralight H502c. Personally I prefer the H502w for neutral white (high cri tends to be a bit too yellow for my taste), but if you need the high CRI, the H502c would be perfect.
Works wonderfully well for close up stuff, and lots of modes so you can have it at exactly the level you like. UI takes a bit of getting used to, but once you figure it out, it's very intuitive.
Low PWM in close quarters drives me nuts even though I’m not really sensitive to it. If I don’t take frequent breaks I get a headache from that. More distance and it’s not a problem. I also find diffused light easier on my eyes- easy to DIY with any opaque plastic. Could just be my aging eyes and uncorrected vision though.
I don’t know about anyone else but, I find that when doing fine detail/close up work (building a driver for eg), light coming from the center of my head isn’t as effective as light coming slightly from the side but, if you’re looking into a small space, then you have no choice. In my opinion, current controlled is easier on the eyes than PWM (i’m sensitive to PWM). Having a variable brightness is good too because you don’t want to ‘blind’ yourself by using too much light.
.
The Burgh, brad’s suggestion of the HL-10 is good. Fenix is current controlled and the HL-10 is light weight. IF you want something more high end, then AA or 16350 lights from zebralight or armyte are fine options.