eagletac D25C2 Mini questions

Recently after seeing some photos of them again I have come back to looking at the eagletac D25 series, for some reason the look of those lights to me have always just
screamed QUALITY.

I’m intrigued by the smaller dimensions specifically of the D25C2 Mini. It’s actually slightly slimmer than many AA lights because it runs 2xCR123 instead of an 18650. So when I found out about 16650’s I became even more intrigued. At 2500mAh (if true) they are nearly the same capacity as the 2600mAh Xtar 18650’s I’ve been running in my other lights.

It uses an XP-G2 R5. Unfortunately it doesn’t appear to be available in a NW version. I’m a big NW fan and nearly all of my lights are NW, I don’t like the bluish or greenish hue of some CW LED’s but I’ve read that some XP-G2 equipped lights were reported to have have a “pure white” tint that may be acceptable to me.

So I have a few questions for anyone who has one of these:

How would you describe the tint of the XP-G2 R5?

Will this battery fit the D25C2? 16650 KeepPower 2500mAh Sanyo UR16650ZTA 4.20V Protected Button Top
Will running it on a Li-ion increase the output above the rated 530 lumens?

“The internal cell is capable of being charged to 4.35V, but the protection circuit is set to 4.20V”
I guess this means even if I had a 4.35v charger these would only charge to 4.2v. So I wonder if these actually have 2500mAh capacity at 4.2v.

Although I prefer protected batteries for my EDC lights (in case of accidental turn on) I also found this unprotected battery from RMM: Efest ICR 16650 2200mAh - Button Top a bit slimmer, but slightly longer. Nothing showing about voltage, maybe not 4.35v?

According to ET this light only works with button tops, and protected battery is highly recommended:
“All batteries must have protruding top button. All rechargeable li-ion batteries (e.g. RCR123A and 18650) should be equipped with internal protection circuit against over-charge,over-discharge, and short circuit.”
So the Efest ICR may not be a good choice because the light doesn’t have any low voltage shut down protection.

Can someone recommend any other 16650’s for this and where currently to buy them?

Another concern is the reported loss of mode spacing on some of the D series lights when running on a Li-ion battery, or is that only an issue on the AA/14500 “A” versions?

I don’t own this light, but I do run the KP 2500 16650 cell with a boost/buck-driven AA/14500 light (so I can run AA/123 primaries in a pinch). HKJ tested the 2000mah KP 16650 cell and found it true to capacity, and with only an 80mah difference charging to 4.2v vs 4.35v. It’s a great cell and feels like it lasts easily 3x+ a single Eneloop or 14500 for only 2/3” longer length on my flashlight.

The D25 series only use boost OR buck drivers, so it’s only the low voltage models (A,C) that will lose/shift modes on Li-ions. The high voltage 2Cs will be have buck drivers and so should run fine on a 16650 - it will not be brighter, though, as spec is tested with 6v. Note the 530 lms is LED emitter lumens, OTF/ANSI is 379 lms; that said ET uses real US ANSI so you can bump up their OTF ratings by ~40% to be on a comparable scale to the Zebralight/Thrunite/Armytek/Selfbuilt/etc. lumen scales. One thing a little deceptive about ET is their warranty - it’s really only a year due to the “electronic” clause (the driver).

Good luck

Thanks for the replies. A lot of good info. Hopefully the KP2500 fits. I wonder if anyone else who is a NW fan has this light has changed the emitter (if possible) or if they thought it was necessary to do so.

I see on the specifications page for this light at the bottom under “Accessories” it shows a “LED upgrade module” to upgrade to XM-L2 etc. However it appears the same “Accessories list” shows up at the bottom of the page on all of their lights.

I guess they only make LED upgrade modules for a few of their lights like their T20C2 / T25C2. They also have their Sportac P60 Drop-ins, but I couldn’t find which eagletacs (if any) use a P60.