You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.
Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.
You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…
thank you for the very helpful education
fwiw, I had a XPL 90 CRI installed into an Olight i3s. It is VERY yellow
it is presently with LightRider, waiting for the arrival of some Warm High CRI N219c
here is the color difference between them
I dont tolerate Yellow very well, so a Low CRI “Neutral” SMini is not on my radar.. and even in high CRI, Cree LEDs tend to be on the Yellow side, above the BBL.. The 219c are also above the BBL, but not as much, so not as yellow.
this image will give some idea why the N219b is known to be “pink”.. note how it lands below the BBL
The N219c is not as pink, note how it lands above the BBL
maukka wrote:
I don’t have a maukka scan of a 3000k XPL, but here is one of a cooler version..
Note the Tint lands above the BBL
Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.
Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.
Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.
Thank you for the education
I don’t consider 80CRI sufficient for my High CRI goals, I want 90+CRI
it seems clear to me that the people that enjoy the Olight options, don’t mind Low CRI, and don’t mind Yellow Tint.
I will assume unless you show me a photo otherwise, that side by side Compared to a 4000k 90CRI N219b (that I linked to), your 80CRI XM-L2 is yellow tinted.
@candor
I hope you are beginning to grasp some of the variables in play
CRI, Color Temperature, and Tint
each variable is independent, for example, you can have an 80CRI 4000k Yellow Tinted Cree LED, or you can (not in an Smini), have a 90CRI 4000k Pink Tinted N219b…
you won’t know the difference unless you compare them.. so my advice is don’t compare them or you might become a snob like me, who refuses to buy Low CRI LEDs (I call anything above 90CRI, High CRI)
Yeah, that’s the one I’ve pretty much decided on. I can imagine what the difference is between the 5D1 and the 5D3 but I haven’t found any photo comparison. Have you experienced both?
Not that it much matters—I don’t see the 5D1 available anywhere.
Candor, if you like I will Order both emitters and do a comparison by photo. Then whichever emitter you choose, I’ll just charge you for that emitter and I’ll keep the other. It may come in handy down the line anyway.
Your call:)
Now that’s service!
I hope to get going with this in the next day or so. Looks like it’ll be the T5 5D3 from Mountain Electronics. I’m gonna pick up a D4 as soon as they’re available again so I can just get the emitter then.
@jon_slider
I hear you, brother. I have snobbish tendencies but not a great deal of experience with the myriad of options. I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.
@everyone else
Thanks for your time and advice. I love BLF!
I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.
Im also very attracted Copper, and also have been fortunate to have modding help from LightRider.
I look forward to your progress, and Photos
LightRider modded the two lights on the left, and I could not be happier. Highest recommendations for his services!
here is a beam shot, with white balance set to the 4000k Nichia.. the light on the right is Cool White 6000k+ Color temp.
as time allows, you will learn about the effects of white balance on photos, and brain
I like to match the color temperature of my flashlight to the white balance of my brain in a given environment
copper copper copper
I like to have a range of color temperature choices:
the beams from the above lights:
note white balance is now the 6000k light (thats cool white, what some cameras refer to as “daylight” white balance)
I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.
I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.
I look forward to your results. Wondering what the lumen levels and mode sequence is. I can’t figure it out from the web info.
X3 wrote:
Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!
Yes,
and it is available for adoption to a good home PM me if anyone is interested
the head also plays well on a Maratac, a Tool, and a Thrunite
it uses a 4500k N219b, quite nice, and not as yellow as the latest Maratac and Tools which are closer to 4000k
fwiw, modes on the Wrom are MLH 20-3-90, no PWM, and regulated and efficient, even in High mode, much better runtime too, than the Tool, which is very inefficient and unregulated on High.
Received my Copper S Mini today.
Photographable PWM/Constant Current Flicker:
size comparisons
Im amazed how small the S Mini is. The beam is very green in the middle.
Electronic Lockout causes moonlight to work when pressing the button, and turns off when releasing the button. a little weird.. but, Im happily entertained. Lockout also erases memory and unlocking starts the light on Moonlight.
The moon flicker is unfortunate, but I understand why they did it. At such a low level, the processor takes more power than the LED, so it doesn’t have as much runtime as it should. This can be improved by underclocking the processor in moon mode, but it has the side effect of slowing down PWM.
I like how the lockout mode also allows moon to be used without unlocking the light. I put a similar feature in Anduril, except it works a bit better than Olight’s version. It may seem weird at first, but I think it makes a lot of sense.
My oLight i3s has no photographable flicker on moon mode. It is also <0.5 lumens on my meter
My Maratac AAA has no photographable flicker on its low that my meter says is 2.5 lumens.
The S Mini has photoFlicker on its 8 lumen low (my meter) also. Neither the oLight i3s, nor the Maratac AAA, or my Mecarmy PT-16 have any photoFlicker on their lows..
constant Current no longer means no visible or photoFlicker. The moon on oLight also shows dots when waving the light (a popular PWM test)… but its too fast to see on Low..
this is my first S Mini. I love the host. The driver and LED, not so much.. but.. Im still happy to play with it. Im accustomed to Nichias in my other lights.. the S Mini has a Majorly green center to its beam… definitely makes the palm of my hand look cadaverous..
IF I was criticizing, and Im not, just entertained, the “lockout” should be a true lockout, NO light should come from the switch being pocket activated, but, at least it won’t drain power for long, since its intermittent, nor very fast, since its only moon…
Like that I can always get to moon by press hold from off.. confusing that it goes into lockout if I hold too long..
like that tripple click gives strobe, and double click gives high, as those match the way my PT-16 UI works.. in fact, so does the press to advance.. so the oLight UI is easily intuitive.. I like the memory, cause I can store moon or Low if I want to (or med or high too, but thats not me).. Im a moon and Low user, mostly..
Like that even without the clip, the oLight won’t roll off a table, due to the bump around the switch.. Love the knurling!
tons of fun, no regrets, love the copper, love that the clip works on a hat
at some point, after the High CRI S1 goes on sale, Im contemplating picking one up as a donor.. I would like to go to a Nichia, and would like the low battery indicator, in the Cu S Mini host.. but that depends on not frying the S1 Mini High CRI driver.. which so far has been reported as a potential issue.. once..
there is a flash sale at the olight store in 2 days, the High CRI S1 Mini for 30% off, might be time to open my wallet, again:-).. here comes a High CRI TIR, Driver, and Switch w low battery indicator.. Nichia on Board!
there is a flash sale at the olight store in 2 days, the High CRI S1 Mini for 30% off, might be time to open my wallet, again:-).. here comes a High CRI TIR, Driver, and Switch w low battery indicator.. Nichia on Board!
Why doesn’t the copper version have the high cri led?
This is the one and only reason I will not buy the S mini.
The copper version is the best looking flashlight I have ever seen. Copper with blue accents..
Thanks for the heads up!
I’ve got the S Mini Ti and it’s one of the few light that gets swapped out for my SC62d.
Put a 5000k and some glow tape in it, it’s perfect for an evening light.
I love the 3 minute timer, wish it was a bit longer.
I don’t need a copper version, but it’s a solid little light.
I love the 3 minute timer, wish it was a bit longer.
I’m curious. What do you use the 3-minute timer for?
Either for lighting or as a timer.
Our bathroom is off our bedroom so when my wife gets up to use the restroom I turn on a low light. We’ve found it’s easier to go back to sleep if you can avoid turning on the bathroom light. With the timer feature I can tail stand the light on my dresser and go back to sleep.
My job involves grinding and I have to fill large coolant tanks. It’s easy to get distracted and forget that the water is on. When the light goes out it is a nice indicator that 1 or 3 minutes have passed. With other lights I’ll use a beacon to remind me.
It’s such a tiny light, always freaks people out when they see the output.
sooo… no High CRI option for the Olight S-Mini?
how about this one.. can it take a High CRI Nichia?:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-flashlight-USB-charging-EDC-ultra-s...
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
You have an option for High CRI in the Olight S baton series with TIR optics such as the S mini.
Kaidomain is selling a 3000K XM-L2 92 CRI though it’s not as beautiful as a Nichia tint of course…
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Yes a nichia will work in that light, but I don’t think you can compare that light with the s mini.
Btw, I have a 80+ cri Xm-l2 in the s mini. And I don’t have the feeling I’m missing cri compared to my nichias, unless you use them next to each other and really focus on it.
thank you for the very helpful education
fwiw, I had a XPL 90 CRI installed into an Olight i3s. It is VERY yellow
it is presently with LightRider, waiting for the arrival of some Warm High CRI N219c
here is the color difference between them
I dont tolerate Yellow very well, so a Low CRI “Neutral” SMini is not on my radar.. and even in high CRI, Cree LEDs tend to be on the Yellow side, above the BBL.. The 219c are also above the BBL, but not as much, so not as yellow.
this image will give some idea why the N219b is known to be “pink”.. note how it lands below the BBL
The N219c is not as pink, note how it lands above the BBL
I don’t have a maukka scan of a 3000k XPL, but here is one of a cooler version..
Note the Tint lands above the BBL
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Is it the same one you linked to earlier? This one: http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u2-5d-p-806.html
I believe I have XM-L2 T5 5D1 80+CRI in it.
Mountain electronics has a 5D3 with minimal 80cri.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...
Thank you for the education
I don’t consider 80CRI sufficient for my High CRI goals, I want 90+CRI
it seems clear to me that the people that enjoy the Olight options, don’t mind Low CRI, and don’t mind Yellow Tint.
I will assume unless you show me a photo otherwise, that side by side Compared to a 4000k 90CRI N219b (that I linked to), your 80CRI XM-L2 is yellow tinted.
@candor
I hope you are beginning to grasp some of the variables in play
CRI, Color Temperature, and Tint
each variable is independent, for example, you can have an 80CRI 4000k Yellow Tinted Cree LED, or you can (not in an Smini), have a 90CRI 4000k Pink Tinted N219b…
you won’t know the difference unless you compare them.. so my advice is don’t compare them or you might become a snob like me, who refuses to buy Low CRI LEDs (I call anything above 90CRI, High CRI)
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Yeah, that’s the one I’ve pretty much decided on. I can imagine what the difference is between the 5D1 and the 5D3 but I haven’t found any photo comparison. Have you experienced both?
Not that it much matters—I don’t see the 5D1 available anywhere.
Now that’s service!
I hope to get going with this in the next day or so. Looks like it’ll be the T5 5D3 from Mountain Electronics. I’m gonna pick up a D4 as soon as they’re available again so I can just get the emitter then.
@jon_slider
I hear you, brother. I have snobbish tendencies but not a great deal of experience with the myriad of options. I got the S Mini to check out the form factor. I prioritized the copper over the emitter halfway thinking I would gift it if I wasn’t impressed. I loved the copper goodness and, to my surprise, wasn’t all that disappointed in the CW. But, as is apparent in the past few pages of this thread, would like to make it something I could really love.
@everyone else
Thanks for your time and advice. I love BLF!
Im also very attracted Copper, and also have been fortunate to have modding help from LightRider.
I look forward to your progress, and Photos
LightRider modded the two lights on the left, and I could not be happier. Highest recommendations for his services!
here is a beam shot, with white balance set to the 4000k Nichia.. the light on the right is Cool White 6000k+ Color temp.
as time allows, you will learn about the effects of white balance on photos, and brain
I like to match the color temperature of my flashlight to the white balance of my brain in a given environment
copper copper copper
I like to have a range of color temperature choices:
the beams from the above lights:
note white balance is now the 6000k light (thats cool white, what some cameras refer to as “daylight” white balance)
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
I have two of these lights on the bench for a mod right now and I have 12 more on the way. Let me know if you want one and I’ll mod it for you;) should work great with xp sized emitters.
Is it a Lumintop Wrom ? Like, really ?!
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
I look forward to your results. Wondering what the lumen levels and mode sequence is. I can’t figure it out from the web info.
Yes,
PM me if anyone is interested
and it is available for adoption to a good home
the head also plays well on a Maratac, a Tool, and a Thrunite
it uses a 4500k N219b, quite nice, and not as yellow as the latest Maratac and Tools which are closer to 4000k
fwiw, modes on the Wrom are MLH 20-3-90, no PWM, and regulated and efficient, even in High mode, much better runtime too, than the Tool, which is very inefficient and unregulated on High.
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Received my Copper S Mini today.
Photographable PWM/Constant Current Flicker:
size comparisons
Im amazed how small the S Mini is. The beam is very green in the middle.
Electronic Lockout causes moonlight to work when pressing the button, and turns off when releasing the button. a little weird.. but, Im happily entertained. Lockout also erases memory and unlocking starts the light on Moonlight.
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
The moon flicker is unfortunate, but I understand why they did it. At such a low level, the processor takes more power than the LED, so it doesn’t have as much runtime as it should. This can be improved by underclocking the processor in moon mode, but it has the side effect of slowing down PWM.
I like how the lockout mode also allows moon to be used without unlocking the light. I put a similar feature in Anduril, except it works a bit better than Olight’s version. It may seem weird at first, but I think it makes a lot of sense.
My oLight i3s has no photographable flicker on moon mode. It is also <0.5 lumens on my meter
My Maratac AAA has no photographable flicker on its low that my meter says is 2.5 lumens.
The S Mini has photoFlicker on its 8 lumen low (my meter) also. Neither the oLight i3s, nor the Maratac AAA, or my Mecarmy PT-16 have any photoFlicker on their lows..
constant Current no longer means no visible or photoFlicker. The moon on oLight also shows dots when waving the light (a popular PWM test)… but its too fast to see on Low..
this is my first S Mini. I love the host. The driver and LED, not so much.. but.. Im still happy to play with it. Im accustomed to Nichias in my other lights.. the S Mini has a Majorly green center to its beam… definitely makes the palm of my hand look cadaverous..
IF I was criticizing, and Im not, just entertained, the “lockout” should be a true lockout, NO light should come from the switch being pocket activated, but, at least it won’t drain power for long, since its intermittent, nor very fast, since its only moon…
Like that I can always get to moon by press hold from off.. confusing that it goes into lockout if I hold too long..
like that tripple click gives strobe, and double click gives high, as those match the way my PT-16 UI works.. in fact, so does the press to advance.. so the oLight UI is easily intuitive.. I like the memory, cause I can store moon or Low if I want to (or med or high too, but thats not me).. Im a moon and Low user, mostly..
Like that even without the clip, the oLight won’t roll off a table, due to the bump around the switch.. Love the knurling!
tons of fun, no regrets, love the copper, love that the clip works on a hat
at some point, after the High CRI S1 goes on sale, Im contemplating picking one up as a donor.. I would like to go to a Nichia, and would like the low battery indicator, in the Cu S Mini host.. but that depends on not frying the S1 Mini High CRI driver.. which so far has been reported as a potential issue.. once..
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Same. It’s one of my favorite lights, but I’d like to replace the driver and LED.
there is a flash sale at the olight store in 2 days, the High CRI S1 Mini for 30% off, might be time to open my wallet, again:-).. here comes a High CRI TIR, Driver, and Switch w low battery indicator.. Nichia on Board!
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Why doesn’t the copper version have the high cri led?
This is the one and only reason I will not buy the S mini.
The copper version is the best looking flashlight I have ever seen. Copper with blue accents..
Another flash sale is coming on the S1 mini,
which is nicer, copper or rose gold?
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
subbed
>>>Searching for a specific flashlight? <<<
So is the sale 40% the price listed on that page?
Note S1 mini is aluminum and 16340 power, and S1A has the copper options and is AA powered.
If you like antibacterial tarnished raw copper like me, don’t buy the PVD rose gold.
If you prefer no tarnish titanium plating get rose gold.
There is also the S Mini, if you want 16340, also in the coppers and titanium’s
Illumn.com sells the S1A for $38 with code blacknovember
How to hide signatures, and ignore someone, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44835?page=3#comment-1438048
Cool, best price I’ve seen on the S Mini
/ S1 Mini. If I didn’t already have four, I’d be all over this.For beam / tint, the obvious winner is S Mini Ti (
and S1 Mini HCRI).For appearance, the bare copper model is really nice, or titanium, or rainbow titanium.
For price, the S1 Mini
is the cheapest andincludes a battery with built-in charger.My main lights lately are:
… which makes the S Mini the only light I currently use which is both unmodded and actually available.
(edit: got the two S1 Mini tints mixed up, forgot the HCRI one had tint issues)
(edit: The S1 Mini is not on sale)
Thanks for the heads up!
I’ve got the S Mini Ti and it’s one of the few light that gets swapped out for my SC62d.
Put a 5000k and some glow tape in it, it’s perfect for an evening light.
I love the 3 minute timer, wish it was a bit longer.
I don’t need a copper version, but it’s a solid little light.
It broke my heart that the website doesn’t ship to my country
Deals: Skilhunt H03
I’m curious. What do you use the 3-minute timer for?
Either for lighting or as a timer.
Our bathroom is off our bedroom so when my wife gets up to use the restroom I turn on a low light. We’ve found it’s easier to go back to sleep if you can avoid turning on the bathroom light. With the timer feature I can tail stand the light on my dresser and go back to sleep.
My job involves grinding and I have to fill large coolant tanks. It’s easy to get distracted and forget that the water is on. When the light goes out it is a nice indicator that 1 or 3 minutes have passed. With other lights I’ll use a beacon to remind me.
It’s such a tiny light, always freaks people out when they see the output.
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