Long story short…I ordered a Convoy S2+ with a Nichia 365nm from the Gearbest US warehouse…my package has been lost and I’m in need of a UV light to cure glue for a light that I have in route. Does anyone have any experience with these leds? Which one would be best?
i build uv light using cheap ebay 365nm leds, they are xp type\size leds, uv cure glue that cabella’s sells works great with those leds. however i mounted 3 on triple star. driving each at 700ma.
Lol, now you’ve got me wanting to build a S2+ triple UV.
XP-G Sized from ebay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/251553516667
All kinds of sizes: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-10pcs-3W-UV-Ultra-Violet-High-Power-LED-Bead-Emitter-395-400NM-with-20mm-Star/32315559757.html
Well, I have done an output test on that LiteOn led a while ago, which has the convenient XP-footprint so you can use it on a Noctigon, and it has by far the best output of any 3535-size 365nm led that I have seen (and significant more than the Nichia 276A for that matter), and for a very good price. The current sweetspot on a Noctigon is 1.2A. It does emit some white-ish light as a side-product but that is no point at all for curing glue (and that can nowadays simply be filtered out with a cheap ZBW2 filter if you want to get rid of it)
I stumbled upon your review of the LTPL-C034UVH365 about an hour ago…also just finished looking at the test between the 276A. Very nice…if I would have searched the thread before asking my question, I would have already had the answer, lol. Thanks for doing the testing on those leds!! What I plan on doing is building a S2+ triple with three of the Lite-On UV leds. I’ll use a copper spacer and I also have a ZBW2 filter to put in front of the Carclo 10507 optic. The only driver I see that’ll fit the bill is a qlite with 10x7135s. It’ll put me a little bit over the sweet spot but not by much. Also, do I need more than one mode?
those 3535 ebay 365nm leds i bought had higher Vf, they would barely light up from 1 cell, with buck driver they shine a lot brighter. if you plan on running 3 parallel, from 1 cell, you may have issues with some leds. i’d try DD, in your case.
In djozz’s test, he said that the Lite-On maxed out at 2a. I’d be kind of scared to run 3 on a fet. Wouldn’t that kill them?
i’m talking about Vf, if it is high for particular led, 1 cell may not have enough voltage for that led to pull anything beyond 100 or so mA. let alone 3.
i may have missed something, but looks to me he used a diy test stand, and used more than 1 cell for tests. like i said not all of those leds are the same, 3535 is a popular format, those leds are made by different manufacturers, Vf is not same for all. we know nichia works great with 1 cell, but those that i bought would not.
these are the ones i bought, from this seller, great leds, but not for 1 cell.
If I look at the VF, the Liteon should work ok but close to max as a parallel triple on a FET driver with a not too high drain 18650. But perhaps start with not bypassing the springs and measure current that way first.
But mind that you can’t use a standard plastic (PMMA) optic with 365nm leds, it absorbs the UV, so only as a mule or in a light with triple reflector.
I’m kind of a voltage dummy, thanks for the explanation.
I don’t know that about the optic…I’ve got a lot to learn.
Thinking about 4 x NiMH and some 7135s…
I’m using generic 365nm “bead” type UVLEDs on 20mm stars in a C8. Not as bright, lumenwise, but a nice tight intense beam.
standart plasitc lenses are polycabonate, they are no good for 365nm, pmma is ok for 365, i used ledil 20mm triple in my build, carclos are polycab. and would not work, ledil triple is pmma, also a bit higher, it also has a small rim making it a bit bigger than carclo lens in diameter, basically no good for most drop ins.
I decided to go with just one of the Lite-On leds in a S2+ host with a 1.5a buck driver.
I did not know that Carclo optics were polycarbonate and Ledil optics PMMA, thanks for correcting me. I searched for transmission spectra of these plastics and came up with this graph. I did not do an extensive background search on the origin of the graph (on first look it looks like a trustworthy source), but at least this source shows that what they call 'standard PMMA' is no good for 365nm leds either. There is a 'UV-T PMMA' that does transmit deep into the UV. I will try to dig a bit deeper because I like this kind of stuff :-)
when i was building my light i powered up the leds with no lenses, shined the light on $100 jamacan bill, there are 2 different uv dies there, one lights up even with 400nm, but small part in the center only lights up with lower band uv like 365, than i put carclo lens, both dies stopped fluorescing, one completly, other one almost, it was barely glowing, than i replaced them with ledil pmma ( from here, top one), both dies were fluorescing same way as it did with no lenses. there prbly are loses with pmma lens, but i could not see them with a naked eye. but since things were lighting up with that lens, and also 3\16 window over it from pmma as well, it is good enough for me.
ledil makes pmma lenes for their lz1 leds, that are rated 365nm, http://www.ledengin.com/products/lenses#LZ1
Perhaps Ledil uses a non-standard PMMA then, which would be good news. I have a Ledil triple optic, so I can test it one of these days 
Bumping this thread to see if anyone has tested the SST-10 emitters yet. I purchased one of each of the lite-on and SST-10 from mouser. According to the datasheets the SST-10 should put out more radiant power at the same 500mA current (492-665mW vs 720-810mW), but was curious if anyone had done a test yet.
I also got the SST-10 in the royal blue, deep red, and far red to compare to XP-E/XP-E2 color emitters. Waiting for the green and regular red to become available.