New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

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Bob_McBob
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clemence wrote:
You can rework it, just change the damaged LED only. With careful handling reflow soldering E21A is relatively easy, it takes more time though. Avoid using lead free solder whenever possible.

I actually had to reflow a couple of the LEDs already and was surprised to find it wasn’t too difficult. I only want to replace the MCPCB because the alteration I made is pretty ugly and I want extras for other lights Wink

ma tumba
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Clemence, do you still have the old gapless quad boards for sale? Looks like if the board is shifted so that 2 of the 4 LEDs are centered then their dies are in quite a good focus in an aspheric, even with the gap between the LEDs, the gapless board is going to be even better.

The plan is to sand and recenter the board with just 2 individually adressable LEDs, in a way that djozz did in his triple setup with the rgbw driver, so they would never operate at the same time.

Why? I am in love with the 2000K E21 (had never imagined that) and want to have it for the low modes

ma tumba
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Clemence, are you still planning to proceed with triple boards? I really hope so. Just in case it is not too late to suggest things: it would be great to have individual addressing for color mixing.

Are you aware of Charles Wiggins dragon 2-channel driver?

ma tumba
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I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1331004#comment-1331004

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
ma tumba wrote:
I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1331004#comment-1331004

- Clemence


Thanks Clemence, I am aware of these. But they are 20mm sized so would not fit an aleph head which I prefer now. And the location of the pads is not ideal for a mule.
clemence
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You can make your own using thin copper and JBweld.

ma tumba
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I was thinking about something like this, but was unsure about the bond, so thanks much for suggesting JBweld. Do you know of any tutorial on this subject?

and btw, when do you expect the new arrival of optisolii?

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
I was thinking about something like this, but was unsure about the bond, so thanks much for suggesting JBweld. Do you know of any tutorial on this subject?

and btw, when do you expect the new arrival of optisolii?

At best, I can only complete the payment to Nichia in 180622 or 180625. It’s a long holiday here. The last time I was about to complete it, Nichia couldn’t process my order because the Optisolises were out of stock. Now when they’re back, there’s this holiday.

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
You can make your own using thin copper and JBweld.

What specific type of JBweld woudl you suggest? They have loads of different bonding solutions.
clemence
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The original JB Weld is the strongest and most heat resistant up to 315C

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
The original JB Weld is the strongest and most heat resistant up to 315C

- Clemence


Thank you!

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