New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

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Bob_McBob
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clemence wrote:
You can rework it, just change the damaged LED only. With careful handling reflow soldering E21A is relatively easy, it takes more time though. Avoid using lead free solder whenever possible.

I actually had to reflow a couple of the LEDs already and was surprised to find it wasn’t too difficult. I only want to replace the MCPCB because the alteration I made is pretty ugly and I want extras for other lights Wink

ma tumba
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Clemence, do you still have the old gapless quad boards for sale? Looks like if the board is shifted so that 2 of the 4 LEDs are centered then their dies are in quite a good focus in an aspheric, even with the gap between the LEDs, the gapless board is going to be even better.

The plan is to sand and recenter the board with just 2 individually adressable LEDs, in a way that djozz did in his triple setup with the rgbw driver, so they would never operate at the same time.

Why? I am in love with the 2000K E21 (had never imagined that) and want to have it for the low modes

ma tumba
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Clemence, are you still planning to proceed with triple boards? I really hope so. Just in case it is not too late to suggest things: it would be great to have individual addressing for color mixing.

Are you aware of Charles Wiggins dragon 2-channel driver?

ma tumba
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I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1331004#comment-1331004

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
ma tumba wrote:
I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2×3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1331004#comment-1331004

- Clemence


Thanks Clemence, I am aware of these. But they are 20mm sized so would not fit an aleph head which I prefer now. And the location of the pads is not ideal for a mule.
clemence
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You can make your own using thin copper and JBweld.

ma tumba
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I was thinking about something like this, but was unsure about the bond, so thanks much for suggesting JBweld. Do you know of any tutorial on this subject?

and btw, when do you expect the new arrival of optisolii?

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
I was thinking about something like this, but was unsure about the bond, so thanks much for suggesting JBweld. Do you know of any tutorial on this subject?

and btw, when do you expect the new arrival of optisolii?

At best, I can only complete the payment to Nichia in 180622 or 180625. It’s a long holiday here. The last time I was about to complete it, Nichia couldn’t process my order because the Optisolises were out of stock. Now when they’re back, there’s this holiday.

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
You can make your own using thin copper and JBweld.

What specific type of JBweld woudl you suggest? They have loads of different bonding solutions.
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The original JB Weld is the strongest and most heat resistant up to 315C

- Clemence

ma tumba
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clemence wrote:
The original JB Weld is the strongest and most heat resistant up to 315C

- Clemence


Thank you!
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UPDATE 180706:

New variants, VR21SP4 (quadtrix E21A) and VR21P4 (quad Optisolis/757). Same board material and technology as previous one.

News here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1345676#comment-1345676

- Clemence

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New Products:

VR21P4 (parallel only, 757/Optisolis only)

- The closest performance to DTP copper MCPCB.
- 1 Oz copper
- Diameter = 21mm
- Thickness = 1,5mm
- Compatible with Carclo 106xx
- Almost invisible (from afar and when lit) yellow marking for enhanced aesthetic
- Special solder footprint dimensions for precise LED positioning. Very easy to solder with DIY techniques. No more overflow solder – bumps which can impede optic placement.

NOTE:
Ignore those erroneous guide boxes, they won’t affect the board/soldering performance. The LEDs self align perfectly.
This board is sure overkill for 757 LED family, the board thermal resistance is much lower than the LED thermal resistance itself. But with some scrapings here and there this board can be used for other high power (2 pads) LEDs as well.

NF2L757GT-F1 sm273 P9 Rfh00


.
.
.
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VR21SP4 (larger version of VR16SP4)

New features:
- The closest performance to DTP copper MCPCB
- 1 Oz. copper
- Tighter LEDs spacings at 0,3mm
- Smooth backside
- 2,5mm holes can be tapped for M3×0,5 screws for alternate mounting options with thin heat sink plate.
- Diameter = 21mm
- Thickness = 2mm
- Almost invisible (from afar and when lit) yellow marking for enhanced aesthetic

Still waiting for the optics for further tests….

- Clemence

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A quick test with VR21SP4: good news, with proper optics it can be used as a thrower. Not as throwy but decent at 8 – 10 degree hot spot (estimated).
Tested with Armytek Viking OP reflector, 37mm, and 45mm colour mixing TIR optics. Will post the beamshots if I have the time between soldering the 219B GB orders.

- Clemence

The_Driver
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I will put mine in the Convoy L6 (medium to large size OP reflector) and will report back how that works. Iight convert the light to use the new Gaggaione 67mm silicone TIR optics.

clemence
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The_Driver wrote:
I will put mine in the Convoy L6 (medium to large size OP reflector) and will report back how that works. Iight convert the light to use the new Gaggaione 67mm silicone TIR optics.

The optics used were 45mm Gaggione LLC49R and Yajiamei 37mm. The reflector was from newest Armytek Viking. All resulted in good beams, little to no artefacts.
E21A on VR21SP4 can’t be driven as hard as the VR16SP4 because of the smaller gaps. 2A/LED seems near the limit for R9080 and 2,5A/LED for R70.

- Clemence

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Why did you make the gap smaller again?

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The_Driver wrote:
Why did you make the gap smaller again?

Popular demand to make it easier with optics.

- Clemence

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Finally had a little time for quick testing the VR21SP4 with some optics I laying around.

4x E21A sm403 D220 R9080

The contestant:





So, quadtrix E21A boards (VR16SP4 & VR21SP4) are not that hopeless for medium range thrower. To get rid off the center cross there are several options:
- Add diffuser or diffuse the optics used (including texturized the reflector when possible)
- Use colour mixing optics (OP reflector, special TIR with multi facet/pebbled surface)
- Alter the focal point to below the MCPCB surface.

Hope this helps

- Clemence

ma tumba
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I am a bit surprized that you gave this higher priority than a regular quad, for quad carclo

clemence
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ma tumba wrote:
I am a bit surprized that you gave this higher priority than a regular quad, for quad carclo

Quad config is not as good as quadtrix config for colour mixing. I prepared all these boards for the CCT switching lights and for the upcoming colour E17A (I hope E21A as well).

- Clemence

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Thanks Clemence!

That first pic looks so perfectly soldered and just clean! Thumbs Up

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The_Driver wrote:
Thanks Clemence!

That first pic looks so perfectly soldered and just clean! Thumbs Up


I borrowed your order for the pic and beam shots. I always test all soldered LED orders at 100% rated current for 1 minutes each.

- Clemence

The_Driver
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Did you measure the lumens?

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The_Driver wrote:
Did you measure the lumens?

No, because I don’t have the right equipment to do so. You can use Texas_Ace measurement for comparison figure.

- Clemence

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NOTE:
Actual stock Carclo 10622 beam was so much uglier with blue hot spot. While on the other hand the frosted 10622 (yes I frosted it myself) was so much better with no red band at all. My camera limited dynamic range can’t reproduce the actual looks.

- Clemence

SKV89
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Blu hotspot with optisolis? What is the cct on that and is the tint as red pink as E21A?

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SKV89 wrote:
Blu hotspot with optisolis? What is the cct on that and is the tint as red pink as E21A?

Blue-green hot spot to be exact. This Optisolis can only be used in medium to flood setup. TIR still very useful to direct the beam out front and make the transition smoother than no optic at all (mule). Tint is very neutral IMHO. My guess it’s not far from BBL. You’ll see Maukka’s test result soon, his sample already OTW.

- Clemence

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