Oh No! (Fixed)

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Kentuckywindage
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Oh No! (Fixed)

Somebody help me figure out what’s wrong with my Blf A6. Noticed my lens starting to look a little foggy and there’s a black spot on my led. I normally turn the light off when it gets a little warm. Hope it’s not something I did. Still functions fine.

Update: replaced the star with led pre flowed because I’m a wuss. It was my first time doing anything like that. I know it’s stupid simple but still felt good when it worked thanks for your help. First baby step taken.

Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

Edited by: Kentuckywindage on 02/23/2017 - 07:54
everydaysurvivalgear
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If you shine the beam on wall can you see the dark spot?

Kentuckywindage
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Can see a dark spot on a white wall. it wouldn’t be all that noticeable to you average joe.

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will34
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Insufficient thermal paste or ran too hot > LED and MCPCB overheats > Remaining solder paste or flux on the board is evaporated causing the fogging.

A small dark dots on the emitter surface normally means too much current or needs better heat sinking, sometimes it can be cleaned with some alcohol. (When it happens in a HI)

I would take the light apart and check for lack of thermal paste or bad reflowing job. Then run the light on turbo until it gets hot before assembling. I have seen soldering paste remains evaporating many times and fogging up the reflector, specially on the SMO ones.

Kentuckywindage
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How do I upload a pic from my phone on here?

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Boaz
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A-6’s have a tendency to de-dome when opened. just a heads up.

καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

everydaysurvivalgear
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Could just be flux and you can wipe it of easy?
You need to upload the photo to Flickr or another sharing website and then post the share link here.
So grab the photo sharing url and click the photo icon here and past the url where It goes in the box.

Kentuckywindage
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Took it all apart and the dome is melted / burned in that spot. Dang it!

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Kentuckywindage
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Everydaysurvivalgear ive watched most of your videos on YouTube!

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The Miller
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Kentuckywindage wrote:
Took it all apart and the dome is melted / burned in that spot. Dang it!

can you slice the dome off?
Kentuckywindage
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!{width:100%%} !

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Kentuckywindage
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Sliced the dome off now the light will not turn on. What did I do!?

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Jerommel
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Could be a burned in speck of dirt.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

everydaysurvivalgear
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Thanks mate!

You could have nicked the bonding wires under the dome? Its a goner if the bonding wires are broken.

Kentuckywindage
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I’m sure I did how would I know?

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luminarium iaculator
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There is no help for this.

Swap emitter and you are ready to go.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

everydaysurvivalgear
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Take a pic for us? Can you see any small wires?

The wire will look like this. I think the XPL only has bonding wires. Its the small wires inside the LED
!Latest cree technology!

Kentuckywindage
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I mourn the loss of my favorite flashlight. Glad I have a second one in a warmer tint that I just discovered I like better. Now I have my first emitter swap to do. I feel like a idiot but the hard way is the only way I learn unfortunately.

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bikenber73
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Welcome to Modification 101!

Kentuckywindage
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Thanks haha. I have some equipment to buy and some reading to do.

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everydaysurvivalgear
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I have stuffed LEDs by trying to De-dome them its common happens to every one.

Kentuckywindage
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Well that makes me feel better. mtn electronics the place to go?

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emarkd
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Kentuckywindage wrote:
Thanks haha. I have some equipment to buy and some reading to do.

Reflowing LEDs is not nearly as hard as most folks think. And once you learn that skill a whole new world of flashlights opens up for you. Buy something with bad tint? Replace the emitter with a better tint bin! Want more throw? Drop in an HI emitter or de-dome your factory! New higher-flux-bin emitters are out and you’re jealous of the extra output? Drop one in your favorite light! Everybody’s raving about how great the new 219c (or whatever the emitter-of-the-day is) and you want to try it? A few bucks later and you’re in business!

Really, this feels bad now but its really a great opportunity for you. And there’s lots of folks here to help you learn.

Kentuckywindage wrote:
mtn electronics the place to go?

Most of the time, yes. They’ve generally got everything you need except for the occasional brand-new thing, like the 219c R90s that are going in a few group buys right now.

everydaysurvivalgear
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Yea you can buy parts from a few shops. Because the A6 is running direct drive you would be better of buy a LED that sits on a direct thermal path copper board. Mcpcb like a noctigon or Sinkpad.

Kentuckywindage
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Thanks guys.

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kramer5150
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Kentuckywindage wrote:
Well that makes me feel better. mtn electronics the place to go?

Cool info in this thread… thanks everyone
No problem with ME on my recent purchase. They have a re-flow service too, which I chose for the XPG3 emitters I ordered. I made the mistake of placing the wrong MCPCB on my order, but they reached out to me via email to confirm and correct my mistake.

AFIAK they are the only ones in the US who sell budget friendly parts and hosts too. Just a heads up I think they are on holiday / vacation soon though.

Kentuckywindage
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Curiousness is killing me. What kind of beam would just slicing the tip top of the dome produce. Very slightly improve throw? Look like crap?

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emarkd
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Shaving domes isn’t a new thing. You’ve just gotta be really careful to not go so deep that you cut the bond wires. It’s easier to do on emitters that don’t have bond wires. It does tighten up the beam, and it doesn’t cause as much tint shift as a full dedome does.

All that said, its hard to beat just buying a flat-dome HI emitter to start with if tons of throw is your goal. Dedoming and other similar mods were more common before the HI emitters became common.

Lexel
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The best is to get a DTP Noctigon MCPCB with a XPL V6-3D

That board on newer A6 is crap

The cooler the LED emitters stays the more lumens

On a copper DTP board you get a way better heat transfer to the body, so you stay cooler than with old aluminium board even if the body gets too hot to touch

Replacing with this is very easy
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d-led-p-812....

I got this one and it has a really nice tint looks like daylight, not too cool not too warm

Kentuckywindage
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Copy that Lexel. That’s probably quite a bit simpler anyways.

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Rufusbduck
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Do your best to keep the reflector from getting any dust as the coating is very soft and very easily scratched. When you remove it immediately put it in a ziplock. Take the opportunity to thoroughly clean inside the pill section and bezel. It might have been a small piece of aluminum from the machining process that was burned into the dome. The A6 driver will feed as much current as your battery can supply so everything has to be done right or the led cooks. Check the wire holes for burrs. Keep the solder bumps low and don’t over tighten the bezel as this can cause the mcpcb to twist shearing through the soft wire insulation.

Edit-if you use the sunset icon to upload the pictures then you can set image size to 100%. This fits the image to the size of the thread column.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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