I got a lux meter.... a few results

So I purchased a lux meter from Amazon and decided to have a quick play with it. I couldnt be bothered to go to my shed for 1m straight on tests so I did a few ceiling bounce tests. It’s not dark yet so I went to my rather small bathroom to have a play. I know the results wont compare with others but I basically put the light meter ~15cm away from where I put the lights and I put the lights on the corner of my bath tub pointing straight up.

Whilst the numbers are possibly meaningless it’s quite fun to see the difference that a cell makes. Comparing the Klarus XT12GT’s supplied battery to a X or Y or Z battery and seeing big differences is quite cool. Almost makes the meter worth £20 just for that. You certainly can’t see the difference by eye!

Batteries used:
Sanyo NCR18650GA
Panasonic 3400 NCR18650B
Sasmung ICR18650-28A
Klaurus 18GT-36 (Panasonic 3600)

It’s also VERY annoying when you realise that one set of batteries you’ve got was used when you tested “how hot does the light get” which involves leaving a TN36 on turbo for half an hour. The batts take ages to charge so at the time of writing I’ve only checked 3 sets of batts.

I’ll put a graph up in a bit when they’ve reached capacity but as an idea the XT12GT hits 235 Lux with its own battery, 147 with a Sanyo and 140 with an old samsung. Thats quite a bit drop!

As you can see the panasonic greens wouldn’t even run the TN36 on turbo.

Which model did you get?

Holdpeak 881C.

£18.76 on Amazon UK

Thank You.

You will also start to see the naked eye is deceiving at times——to the + side at times and to the - side others—very helpful tool especially with throw measurements —To me after owning a meter I would never do without again

There must be something wrong

The light uses a boost converter and drain less than 5A from a fresh cell

There should be no difference with the 18650GA cell which should be as good as the Klarus cell

The light was likely in thermal regulation

Lexel, sorry but no. The battery was “fresh” and the light was only used for a few seconds to get a reading. There was no thermal regulation, my house is ~21c and the light is at best room temperature… Graphs in the post above in a moment.

i also got a light meter a while ago, have no idea how to use it, the manual it came with was totaly useless.

So why should the output break to 60% with a 10A continous discharge 18650GA, when the light uses a boost converter

This is not a direct drive light where you get more lumens the more amperes the battery can deliver as the voltage drop is lower

The light should consume about 18-20W from the cell, a fresh 10A cell should make no difference

Seems something was wrong with my light. It’s dead now. All I did was test it with a couple of different batteries.

Just before it crapped out it was showing 220 on the klarus, 147 on the sanyo. It flickered off on the klarus, I put the sanyo in and it sat happily at 200. Then it just conked out all together.

Well… Fun.

Sounds like you need to do a short video and ask for a refund or repair

If they refund I might consider to get the light for a teardown review and locating fried parts

I think the XT12GT does about 24 watts. Its doing around 6amps.

I will ask the seller and see what they say. I’ll gladly ship it to you if they replace my light for me.

My video would be of a light that won’t turn on!

Yeah Banggood and Gearbest are OK with refund or repairs if you give em hard evidence with a video

Just describe that light wasnt performing well, got hot and didnt turn on after that plus noticing the smell of fried electronics, giving em a video showing green charge indicator and push on the tail switch

Should do the trick. I’ll email Swi @ BG later