UltraFire SRK - 2017 new generation

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ImA4Wheelr
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Tom E wrote:

ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Guessing mine doesn't have Crees, but a at $20.01, I just wanted the bones.

Wut? $20? Where did you get it for that price? That's a great price for this light. at DX, they are close to double that.

I got it at that price during the 3/29 Ali sale.  The have several SRK variants and some other lights I haven't seen show up here on BLF yet.  Right now the lowest price one of the types you discuss in the OP they have is the 8-emitter version for $21.74 (after $1 for $15 purchase coupon):

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Supwildfire-20000LM-8-x-XM-L-T6-LED-Power-Mode-Digital-Display-Flashlight/2787097_32799143787.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.QVBioJ

EDIT: It might be $20.74 because I think they have some auto discounts that show up when you check out ($1 for $15, $7 for $100, etc).

ToyKeeper
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Any idea what size the connection is for that charge port?

It’s nice that the charge port connects directly to BAT+ / BAT-, because then you can use whatever charger you like. It may be odd for a flashlight, but that’s how these things are done in the swordlight industry:

kiriba-ru
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5.5×2.1mm?

18sixfifty
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I've got a dozen or so different "real" ultrafire lights and they are usually a big step up in quality over the fakes.

 

Bummer this light didn't come with a real pill. It seems most of them don't anymore. Lately I've been putting in a copper pill for them not threaded or anything just put in place with thermal epoxy. I buy the blanks from metals direct then just polish them with a circular sander until they are nice a smooth for the noctigons. I've got extra blanks around from last time I bought them, they are a little bigger though, and might not work for you. If you think they will work and want one let me know. Just pay shipping and I'll send one out. I've still got a copper threaded pill that Bucket gave me and these work just as well as far as I can tell. Either one will transfer heat to the light so fast that it will burn your hands pretty quick on turbo. 

 

 

 

This 9x has a copper pill made from a direct metals' blank, it's got a BLF driver in it. With high amp LG's you can't hold on to if for long on turbo.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

teacher
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bella-headlight wrote:
Just wanted to say that I am one of the members who originally bought one of these UF SRK style lights some time ago & rated it highly for the price.
In fact myself & Teacher got a 4 led version each & were very impressed with them.
In the last couple of days Teacher has got a 9 led version & I have a 7 led version on it“s way which should arrive this coming week.
Teacher has confirmed that his new 9 led version is not the same quality as his original 4 led version.
Thinner rougher threads, not the same chunky raised positive contact ring.
He has not stripped it yet but I expect the shelf has gone as well Sad
I expect my 7 led version to be the same.
It seems that UF has reduced the quality of the components/build in these lights.
Tom E wrote:

Thanks for the info! This is interesting. I thought this light caught on with a small group, just couldn’t find the posts/threads. If you have or find any photos of the earlier or later versions, please post in this thread.

So sounds like so far:

  • they downgraded the model/design by removing the shelf, thinned the contact plate, poorer thread design, though I thought my unit has pretty good quality threads, as shown in the OP picture
  • LED’s can be anything, whether it bares the UltraFire name or not, but mine bought from UltraFire.com is listed as CREE LED’s and does appear to be CREE LED’s
Ok here are some minor things.
  • Neither UF-4, UF-7, or UF-9 that I have has a shelf. According to info from Mitko b-h got, these had shelves in them….. when Mitko last purchased some. < EDIT: What Mitko said was mis-understood… they NEVER had shelves (although he does consider them a very good SRK withe real CREE emitters & a decent driver in stock form. He spoke that he had bought several of the 4 LED models in the past)
    .
  • UF-4 & UF-7 has screw securing reflector to MCPBC. UF-9 does not.
  • UF-4 has driver with raised Batt + (guessing 1 – 1.25mm) . UF-7 & UF-9 have nothing raised at all. Sad
    .
  • To me the threads on UF-4 are smoother than UF-7 or UF-9
  • Driver ring on UF-4 much, much easier to reinstall than UF-7 or UF-9
    .
  • UF-4 came from FastTech…. thanks b-h
  • UF-7 & UF-9 came straight from UltraFire
    .
  • UF-4 has a washer under the driver (see pic below)
  • UF-7 had nothing under the driver
  • UF-9 had the small piece of wire somewhere under the driver or retaining ring. (I was not expecting it and did not see where it came from…. Facepalm .) It was not reinstalled.

UF-4 ….Washer under driver
.

.
.
UF-4…… Reflector retaining screw
.

.
.
UF-4……. Driver raised Batt + ring
.

.
.
UF-7 & UF-9 Driver with nothing raised at Batt + ring
.

.
.
UF-9…… Small wire mentioned above is in this picture
.

————————
.
Edit…. I think I remember the driver board being a bit thinner on the 7 & 9. b-h… if you take your 7 & 4 apart measure the driver board of each please…. I forgot to do it. Wink
Maybe you’ll have yours real soon. According to tracking it is about 20 miles or less from your doorstep. Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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DBSAR
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The Miller wrote:
Isn’t a big issue that there is “Ultrafire” the brand that makes not too bad flashlights and the name just being slapped on anything thus can be any quality, usually poor?

One of my favorite “ user” MT-G2 flashlights is an original Ultrafire M-51. Its quality built and with a fit & finish on par with top name brand lights. Sadly over the years the Ultrafire name got trashed by all the junk clones and copies.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

MRsDNF
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Looking at your picture teacher with the wire in it I’d say it could be a piece of swarf from machining, that is if its aluminium.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

teacher
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MRsDNF wrote:
Looking at your picture teacher with the wire in it I’d say it could be a piece of swarf from machining, that is if its aluminium.
That is what I was kinda thinking too…. except for the fact that it is perfectly round and the ends are square cut. ?? That is what makes me wonder?? Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Tom E
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Sorry, missed these postings. 18sixfifty - real good to see you back around! Haven't seen you post much. That 9X mod sure looks sic!! I'd do something like that. Figure 8-10K lumens?

teacher - weird that I got a different/better ring setup in the 6X bought recently then what you got in the 7X and 9X. Odds are bad, evens are good I guess... undecided

I've made mine own up with a brass ring, reflow them to the PCB driver - did this on the 16X light with a HQ OSHPark board:

 

18sixfifty
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Thanks Tom, nice to be back around. It’s been a while. Yeah that light’s a beast and 8 to 10 is about right depending on the batteries of course. I just sold it but I have more. LOL I tend to run it with standard amp good quality batteries because the high amp ones are just overkill. Fun to see what it can do but for actually using it daily, the regular batteries are probably better.

I also run a zenor mod on these because I have fried drivers before with high amp batteries when I didn’t. In fact I tend to use the zenor on all my multi-emitter lights, whether I’m using batteries in series or parallel. Maybe I don’t need to but it’s not much more money and I’m more comfortable knowing it’s in there. I usually pot the driver as well once it’s all set and running the way I want. Those low resistance FETS hate getting too hot, I bet I’ve killed two dozen of them. Half of those I’ve killed just soldering wires and springs on them. I’ve learned to be careful and give them time to cool down before I solder on the next wire or spring.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Tom E
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That's interesting. The SIR800DP and SIR404DP take the amps really really well - no heat issues at all. I've used probably a couple dozen of the 800's without a hitch. I got a couple Infineon FET's in I didn't even try yet, and it might do even better than the 404. What FET's are you using? Also, do you use the zener with an e-switch driver? If so, the parasitic drain is quite high. I got my e-switch lights (Attiny85/Narsil w/smooth ramping) running with a parasitic drain of like 0.023 mA (23 uA), which will literally last for like 20+ years in a SRK.

18sixfifty
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Tom E wrote:

That’s interesting. The SIR800DP and SIR404DP take the amps really really well – no heat issues at all. I’ve used probably a couple dozen of the 800’s without a hitch. I got a couple Infineon FET’s in I didn’t even try yet, and it might do even better than the 404. What FET’s are you using? Also, do you use the zener with an e-switch driver? If so, the parasitic drain is quite high. I got my e-switch lights (Attiny85/Narsil w/smooth ramping) running with a parasitic drain of like 0.023 mA (23 uA), which will literally last for like 20+ years in a SRK.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nexperia-usa-inc/PSMN2R0-30YLD...

I think this is the FET I put in this light but I’m not 100% positive. And yep, the parasitic drain is pretty high. This light locks out with just a half a turn so at least that part is easy, so long as I remember to do it. I’ll have to check out the Attiny85/Narsil and see how that’s done for my next build. I’ve got a big old wonking 18x plunger light with a side switch that takes 5×32650’s but no tailcap switch at all. It would be great to have a driver in it with less parasitic drain. I’m actually only running 15 emitters on it (5s3p), but talk about a lumen monster.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Tom E
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That's the FET Richard sells, and the FET we are going to use in the BLF Q8.

I got this light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_227307.html converted to 16 XHP50's. Measured 37.5K lumens. Same thing - e-switch, no tail switch. It's a FET+1, but the 7135 doesn't handle the load well - 1st one died, 2nd one survived but is not working reliably. I'll be modding Narsil to support just one channel - the FET, than the issues should go away. I'm using the SIR404DP FET in that one.

Custom aluminum plate made for this light:

Custom tool to open the head:

It's not ideal for modding - driver must be accessed from the top, not secured from the bottom, therefore the shelf must be removable, and it's a nasty flat bottom reflector...

All 46 pics here: http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Custom%20Mods/16X%20S88%20clone

 

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Thanks for the review Tom! I was eyeing one of these out wondering how they are inside.

I think some of these lights are being made by Solarstorm the design looks like there’s.

18sixfifty
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Tom E wrote:

That’s the FET Richard sells, and the FET we are going to use in the BLF Q8.


I got this light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_227307.html converted to 16 XHP50’s. Measured 37.5K lumens. Same thing – e-switch, no tail switch. It’s a FET+1, but the 7135 doesn’t handle the load well – 1st one died, 2nd one survived but is not working reliably. I’ll be modding Narsil to support just one channel – the FET, than the issues should go away. I’m using the SIR404DP FET in that one.


Custom aluminum plate made for this light:




Custom tool to open the head:



It’s not ideal for modding – driver must be accessed from the top, not secured from the bottom, therefore the shelf must be removable, and it’s a nasty flat bottom reflector…


All 46 pics here: http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Custom%20Mods/16X%20S88%20clone


 

Holy Smokes! That’s awesome.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Tom E
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For that beast, much rather have 2S4P then 2S3P, and would love 8 20700A SANYO cells for it, but they are bout impossible to find right now, then also a custom built battery tube handle would have to be made. The VTC5A cell is the 2nd best, but lower capacity, after that, maybe the VTC6 cell.

teacher
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Tom E wrote:

teacher – weird that I got a different/better ring setup in the 6X bought recently then what you got in the 7X and 9X. Odds are bad, evens are good I guess… undecided
I had noticed that Tom and forgot to mention it. The ring setup on your ‘6’ looks just like the one on my ‘4’.
.
Driver raised Batt + ring
  • My UF-4 pic on left ……. Tom E’s UF-6 pic on right
    .

    ———-
    ————-

Tom E wrote:

I’ve made mine own up with a brass ring, reflow them to the PCB driver – did this on the 16X light with a HQ OSHPark board:
Now THAT….. is a ring!! Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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teacher
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention…. the reports that these had shelves was not correct. Mitko reported they did NOT have shelves since he had been buying them. I have corrected that in THIS POST above.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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Tors77au
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Tom E wrote:

That’s the FET Richard sells, and the FET we are going to use in the BLF Q8.


I got this light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_227307.html converted to 16 XHP50’s. Measured 37.5K lumens. Same thing – e-switch, no tail switch. It’s a FET+1, but the 7135 doesn’t handle the load well – 1st one died, 2nd one survived but is not working reliably. I’ll be modding Narsil to support just one channel – the FET, than the issues should go away. I’m using the SIR404DP FET in that one.


Custom aluminum plate made for this light:




Custom tool to open the head:



It’s not ideal for modding – driver must be accessed from the top, not secured from the bottom, therefore the shelf must be removable, and it’s a nasty flat bottom reflector…


All 46 pics here: http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Custom%20Mods/16X%20S88%20clone


 

Hi you don’t happen to have a thread or any more info on this build? Info on the S88 (or 16T6 as its been advertised on Australian Ebay) is hard to find!!! This is the 1st I’ve found in days of searching.

Tom E
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I know I posted more info somewhere on it, but no, no dedicated thread. It's slipping away into discontinued oblivion.

This is a sweet deal, says in stock: https://www.fasttech.com/product/4173002 at $63, maybe a BLF disacount as well? Yes - $60 applying "BLF" code.

 

Tors77au
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Thanks for the response Tome E. I’ve found a few for sale on BG and eBay. I’ve got one coming. It had enough room in the head for 6 xhp70s with 30mm lenses but after seeing your posts with 16x xhp50 set up I’m thinking I might follow your lead. Just wondering if you got the driver working for it yet? OR do you know of a driver that can handle 5 or 6 xhp70s?

I need it as a back up for a large 12 × 100w cob light I use for night surfing I have an xhp70s bike light modded for a helmet torch that I use in the surf. If other people surf with me with no inboard light sore and the low voltage protection circuit for the lips on the main light goes out I want to be able to get out of the water and be able to grab a high out put torch to aid them back to shore from the surf zone.

Tom E
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Ohh, it's working pretty well now - no more fried 7135's. Haven't had much time to spend on it and not used much, but for the somewhat unreliable blinks, like voltage level, I modified the firmware to use a low PWM value on the FET instead of the 7135 and works much better.

If I wanted it 100% reliable, I'd use only the FET as a single channel configuration, then all the problems should go away.

Tors77au
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Tom E wrote:

That’s the FET Richard sells, and the FET we are going to use in the BLF Q8.


I got this light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_227307.html converted to 16 XHP50’s. Measured 37.5K lumens. Same thing – e-switch, no tail switch. It’s a FET+1, but the 7135 doesn’t handle the load well – 1st one died, 2nd one survived but is not working reliably. I’ll be modding Narsil to support just one channel – the FET, than the issues should go away. I’m using the SIR404DP FET in that one.


Custom aluminum plate made for this light:




Custom tool to open the head:



It’s not ideal for modding – driver must be accessed from the top, not secured from the bottom, therefore the shelf must be removable, and it’s a nasty flat bottom reflector…


All 46 pics here: http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/TomE2012/library/Custom%20Mods/16X%20S88%20clone


 

Did your light come with the rubber oring between the glass and the reflector or between the glass and the silver bezel?

Also what do you think about stacking a whole load of 7135’s on this board to run the 16xXHP50’s?
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

Im talking about pushing 48A on turbo though this driver with 32 × 4 stacks of 7135;s

16 x XHP50 @ 3.04amps per led = 48.64A = 128 × 7135 0.380mA?

Can the driver handle the current? or would it be better to use 2 drivers stacked with stand offs and put 64 × 7135’s on each board?
Im not looking to break records, just as much reliable constant brightness as possible.

Tom E
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Ahhh, sorry, at work now - pretty sure it came with a white or clear colored o-ring, yes, think it goes between the glass and reflector.

 

My initial reaction I'd say stacking 7135's for this light is a bad idea. It killed a couple of the single 7135's I used on one output channel. Now, maybe it will be more stable with a bank of 7135's - I have no idea. Would be great to get DEL's opinion on this, or someone else that knows a lot more than I do as an EE. 7135's are being pushed with 2S batteries, probably beyond the specs of the part. Other modders have had the same problem. I think with the 16X LED's, the problem worsens.

Stacking 7135's is pretty well proven now to be problematic - they overheat, but this depends on the PCB driver design. You need a really good ground path, full pads, etc., because the ground path is the heat path. Ol-lumens was the first one I know of that knew of the 7135 stacked heat problems and in more later of his mods, he used external 7135 boards with heat sinks.

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Hello all, Im new here, sorry to revive such an old thread, please let me know if I should just start a new one. Any suggestions on a good site for public photo upload? currently everything is in Google Photos and embed function wasn’t a concern for them from what I’ve read.

Anywho, mine varies in the following ways:

a set of 12x (supposed) Cree XML T6s in Parallel

No lock ring on the underside, instead I got JB weld which I broke through today.

a microcontroller without a top mark

a TP4056 micro usb charging circuit built in

If I find a site before I get a response I’ll post pics of the before and after, link to the actual light is in my description, it took FOREVER for me to find anything even remotely close in PCB design, I assume its DD at this point for High mode and secondaries are something else?

You guys rock I’ve been reading and learning a lot from you all.

Thoughts and opinions?

Here to brighten your day!

Ultrafire SRK Sodacan 12x (probably fake) Cree XML-T6 Digital Fat Boy modded with the shunt resistors shorted and an IRL3034B. 3.2v at 6.2a and pushing for more !!!! https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Semlos-Waterproof-Rechargeable-Batteri...

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