[REVIEW] Sofirn SP32 (XP-L2 18650)

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Jerommel
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[REVIEW] Sofirn SP32 (XP-L2 18650)

Hey all,

Sofirn was looking for folks to review their new lights, so i offered to review the SF32 18650 cigar shaped EDC light.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SP32-Powerful-LED-Flashlight-Tactical-18...
They sent me one to review, so here it is, finally…
(had some camera issues, hence the delay…)

This came in the mail a couple of weeks ago:

a box

Containing a light in a bubble bag, a micro USB cable, a single slot charger, baggy with 2 spare O-rings, a manual.

And there it is, the SF32. Looks good, i like the stainless steel side switch in particular.
No tailswitch on this one, but you can lock out by loosening the tail cap a quarter turn.
Pretty heavy, but that’s because…

…there’s a battery inside it. Smile
According to my Liitokala Lii500 the capacity is (not yet finished… will update later)
Without battery the light weighs 70 grams

The little charger which was included.

Lubed anodized square threads for the tail cap.
I personally prefer triangular threads because they centre the parts when tightening, but square threads seem to be popular with customers, so they use square threads. Smile
It’s nicely machined though, i find the whole light nicely machined and assembled, Sofirn did a nice job.

Click for full resolution if you want to read the manual. Smile

Some highlights:

Seems legit, maybe a little exaggerated, probably LED lumens, but i have no way of measuring it, but i’ll compare it with another XP-L2 V6 light later in this review.

Surprise:

Apparently this light can also run on 2x CR123A.
The driver must be a buck driver then.

Unfortunately this is all i can show you of the driver..
That nice brass retainer ring is glued in there, i tried but it won’t budge.
I said i would do a tear down, but the head is also glued, it won’t budge either…
Maybe later when i have the courage to heat the lot up with a small butane torch, so that the glue will soften.

The pocket clip is strong and sturdy, maybe a bit too sturdy for my liking.
It will definitely hold the light in place.

The UI is identical to the ThorFire S70S.
But this driver ramps between modes, which is a nice touch.
So it’s long press for moon, but you can’t go to the other 4 modes nor to strobe from moon mode, you have to turn it off with a short press.
You turn the light on in low mode with a short press, cycling through the modes with short presses, long press is off.
Short press from off is the last used mode, so it has mode memory.
Double click for strobe, both from off and from the regular 4 modes, not from moon.

It seems to be a current regulated buck driver, so: NO PWM Thumbs Up

Now for some more pictures:



It looks the part, between those two must haves. Thumbs Up

..yeah, the picture turned out rather grainy, but i had to show off my lighted C8 tailcap…

The glass lens is unfortunately not AR coated.
The manual claims it is AR coated, but it is not.. Sad

Allright, a beam shot then, on a white structure painted wall:

My camera (i should get a new / better one…) didn’t pick it up too well, so i enhanced it a bit to represent what i see in real life.
I mean the tint shift of course…
I really dislike tint shift, but it seems the modern LEDs have a lot of it.
And not only the latest Cree LEDs, the Nichia 219C also has considerable tint shift.
So it’s no wonder the XP-G2 is still widely used in stock flashlights, or the 219B for that matter.
Shame really, but can be solved with a diffuser film or by replacing the reflector with TIR optics.
Since this light has glued head parts, i could only put some DC-fix on it.

…and so i did…

Much better. Less throw though, but i like it like this for a 18650 tube / cigar EDC flashlight.

And here’s my other XP-L2 light, i put a Kaidomain XP-L2 V6 ‘3B’ in an Astrolux S1 with a Nanjg 105 8× 7135 driver and replaced the reflector with a 30° (i think) TIR optic with a pebbled surface.

As you can see, the modded S1 is brighter.
You can also see it’s probably not a 3B tint, although TIR optics do usually have a cooler tint coming out the front, because the cooler light form the front of the LED is also focussed, unlike the cooler spill of a reflector light.
None the less, it’s quite a lot cooler tinted than the Sofirn, which is specified to have a 3A tint.

Since the Sofirn uses a buck driver, i didn’t bother to measure the tail cap current.
But i guestimate it pushes around 2.4 Amperes through the LED, maybe less, or maybe it’s not a V6 brightness bin, or maybe that TIR in the S1 is better than i expected, or is it the DC-fix that dims the Sofirn?
A lot of maybes… Facepalm

CONCLUSION
I quite like this light.
It looks good, it works well, the UI is okay, it’s well built, there’s nothing wrong with it.
But in my opinion they should have used TIR optics and NOT use glue !
This set i received costs around $ 24 on AliExpress.
The light only is around $ 18.

Hope you enjoyed the read.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Edited by: Jerommel on 07/18/2017 - 23:55
gchart
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I was sent the SF36 to review (coming soon!). One thing I noticed on it was the driver retaining ring is reverse threaded and was on tight. At first I thought it was glued, but a good strong twist in the opposite direction loosened it right up. Check to see if the SF32 is the same way?

Jerommel
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Yeah i did check for that, but it just wouldn’t move either way…
I’ll have to drill the holes larger for some more serious pliers, that’ll probably work.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Serp
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I’m wondering what’s inside the charger? Evil

Jerommel
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I think it actually shuts off when the battery is fully charged, no ‘floating’, which is good.

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

firedome
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Nice Review, Thanks! Big Smile

“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.

-Plato

JOYDAN
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I think if this can be by section 18650 is converted to the length of the section 123 a battery I can according to demand to change the length of it It would be a perfect torch

T18
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thanks for the review, I saw these at some store at Alie, always browsing around there but didn’t even stop and look at these, guess you just never know, so thanks looks to be a alright light.

Wildcat
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Quote:
seems to be a current regulated buck driver, so: NO PWM

No. PWM is here Smile Frequency is 21 kHz.
Jerommel
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Wildcat wrote:
Quote:
seems to be a current regulated buck driver, so: NO PWM

No. PWM is here Smile Frequency is 21 kHz.
Hmmm… Pity..
I should have checked with a fan or something..

Looking for:

5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Firelight2
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After my positive experience with my review sample SP31, I bought an SP32 at full price from Amazon.

The SP32’s interface is usable, but could be better. I prefer e-switch lights to have a shortcut to turbo that works from on or off. The light has shortcuts to moonlight, last used mode, and strobe, but not to turbo.

The 18350 battery tube for the Jaxman E2L fits this light perfectly no modification and looks like it was made for the light. The light looks and feels better to me as an 18350 light.

MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
The SP32’s interface is usable, but could be better. I prefer e-switch lights to have a shortcut to turbo that works from on or off. The light has shortcuts to moonlight, last used mode, and strobe, but not to turbo.

Completely agree with you! It may be the “biggest” flaw, not having the shortcut to turbo, to make this “my” perfect 18650 light!
Other than that, the output, mode spacing, tint and usability are realy good!! Thumbs Up

Firelight2 wrote:
The 18350 battery tube for the Jaxman E2L fits this light perfectly no modification and looks like it was made for the light. The light looks and feels better to me as an 18350 light.

Hum, nice to know that! I tried the Convoy S2+ 18350 tubes but the light didn’t turn ON…
But…if it works well on Jaxman’s tube maybe I’ll give it a try Wink
Thanks for sharing!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Streamer
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Firelight2 wrote:
The light has shortcuts to moonlight, last used mode, and strobe, but not to turbo.

Since you consider “last used mode” as a shortcut, remember turbo is also memorized as a last used mode.

ETA: after reading your post thoroughly, I see you would desire it accessible from on or off

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MascaratumB wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
The SP32’s interface is usable, but could be better. I prefer e-switch lights to have a shortcut to turbo that works from on or off. The light has shortcuts to moonlight, last used mode, and strobe, but not to turbo.

Completely agree with you! It may be the “biggest” flaw, not having the shortcut to turbo, to make this “my” perfect 18650 light!
Other than that, the output, mode spacing, tint and usability are realy good!! Thumbs Up

Firelight2 wrote:
The 18350 battery tube for the Jaxman E2L fits this light perfectly no modification and looks like it was made for the light. The light looks and feels better to me as an 18350 light.

Hum, nice to know that! I tried the Convoy S2+ 18350 tubes but the light didn’t turn ON…
But…if it works well on Jaxman’s tube maybe I’ll give it a try Wink
Thanks for sharing!


Actually my grey Convoy S2+ tube also worked without modification. Just make sure to put the tube in backwards with the silver un-anodized portion facing the rear of the light.
MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
Actually my grey Convoy S2+ tube also worked without modification. Just make sure to put the tube in backwards with the silver un-anodized portion facing the rear of the light.

Hum, I tried both S2+ tubes I have (black version), when I received the SP32 and a few minutes ago, but none works uspside-down or normally! I guess it’s because of the anodization on the top/bottom of the thread, but I won’t risk to scratch it and take it out as I want to use them on the S2+.
I guess I’ll give the Jaxman tube a try Wink
Maybe the grey version has something different that make contact better than the black one !
Thanks!!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

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Actually I don’t think the anodization on the threads makes a difference here.

If you’re having issues it’s probably what I experienced when I tried the same thing with my SP31: Even with the tailcap screwed down all the way there was an air gap between the top of the threads and the switch retaining ring. To fix that problem, I cut a thin strip of aluminum and bent it into a C-shaped ring and then inserted it into the tailcap to bridge the gap.

MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
Actually I don’t think the anodization on the threads makes a difference here.

If you’re having issues it’s probably what I experienced when I tried the same thing with my SP31: Even with the tailcap screwed down all the way there was an air gap between the top of the threads and the switch retaining ring. To fix that problem, I cut a thin strip of aluminum and bent it into a C-shaped ring and then inserted it into the tailcap to bridge the gap.

Yeah, I just realized that the anodization wouldn’t make the difference!
I took it out of the tube and tried it again and it doesn’t work!
I guess it is the contact between the tube and the tailcap or the head, as you said!
I’ll try it later! The SP32 looks nice a shorter shape, so I guess I’ll try to put it that way for sure!!
Thanks again Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P"