Upgrading Old Convoy S2+ to biscotti? and some other newbie questions

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feetsdr
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Upgrading Old Convoy S2+ to biscotti? and some other newbie questions

Just got an S2+ from Simon and paid $1 for the biscotti software.

Really nice compared to the way the 4 older S2+s I got from other places over the last year or so.

Is there a way to download Biscotti to the older flashlights? Or does it involve soldering or replacing parts?

The board I see in the new unit (with the 4 chips) says Convoy v2. would i have to replace the boards or is that just so he knows which boards he loaded biscotti on?

also some questions, being a newb:

1) 1 of the older flashlighs doesn’t have solder between the circuit board and retaining ring. It works fine. Is that a big deal?
2) on all of them, the tailcap threads are anodized. The head threads are not /just silver color. I woudl think all the threads woudl be bare aluminum for better electrical contact, including the tail threads? No?
3) with the different threads (anodized vs. bare), which one do you typically unscrew to remove the battery?

THANKS!

feetsdr
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oh, 1 more question – the bare pushbutton on the back – is that more subject to moisure getting into the flashlight vs. the ones with the rubber cap over the switch?

I sometimes put the flashlight in my mouth to hold it. Saliva could get into the switch either way? or neither?

thanks again!

Lexel
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There are multiple topics about hiw to flash MCUs

The parts to do so cost below 4$ and you need a USB socket on a PC

Then flash biscotti.hex to old drivers

The light should be perfectly fine with heavy rain or other moisture

feetsdr
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Thanks!

whenever I search I come up with things like this: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216

talking about a generic driver / the image of the circuit board doesn’t look like what’s in the convoy (at least while still installed in the flashlight).

If I have to take the flashlight apart to get to the other side of the circuit board, I think I’d pass rather than risk damaging things : )

vwpieces
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Quote:
1) 1 of the older flashlighs doesn’t have solder between the circuit board and retaining ring. It works fine. Is that a big deal? 2) on all of them, the tailcap threads are anodized. The head threads are not /just silver color. I woudl think all the threads woudl be bare aluminum for better electrical contact, including the tail threads? No? 3) with the different threads (anodized vs. bare), which one do you typically unscrew to remove the battery?

The power level of the light is regulated by how many 7135 chips are on it… 4*7135, 6*7135, 8*7135
the 7135 chip generally is 350mA so 350X4, 6 or 8 = 1.4A, 2.1A or 2.8A to the LED on high.
The light without solder may be the 1.4A version that uses the threaded retaining ring and only has 4 of the 7135 chips on one side of the driver board. The 6* and 8*7135 have more of these chips on the retaining ring saide and needed to be soldered in as the ring no longer fit.

If you wish to reprogram the light you will still need to desolder the driver from the brass “pill” and desolder the wires from emitter.
Or just buy the new version driver right from Simon for a reasonable price.

It’s good you realise the tube has different ends and know which is which, you are correct there. The anodize threads are still bare at the tubes flat end, here it contacts flat into the tail switch for electrical contact.

For battery replacement use the tail end as the anodize will wear better. Some silicone grease helps friction and water resistance.

Inside the bare metal tail cap button there is still a silicone seal. Kinda like a bellow but it is sealed.