Sofirn SP35 warning, light got a shelf floating in the air + LED wire came loose

39 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 3123
Location: Germany
Sofirn SP35 warning, light got a shelf floating in the air + LED wire came loose

Hi,

I got today a light to review, but definitely the manufactory did a very bad mistake when constructing this light.

To describe it short the LED shelf is floating in the air, or at lest just rests on the driver board, which gets hot as well
you can hear it rattle when it is not pushed from the reflector against the driver.
And the Star is big and from copper but no DTP.
So we got 30W of heat floating in the flashlight with very little heat transfer to the body.

And on top of that the negative LED wire came at the driver side loose when reassembling the light,
indicating a cold solder joint with poor electrical and mechanical bond

I made a video which I describe it harsh.

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

Edited by: Lexel on 10/11/2017 - 20:45
L4M4
L4M4's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 17 sec ago
Joined: 12/08/2013 - 13:43
Posts: 1117
Location: Germany

Well I’m sure that missing 0.1mm of material is really saving a lot of money

It’s a shame. Sofirn to me isn’t very well known but their remake of the C8 seems to be from good quality – but I also have the cheapest Sofirn – the K03 – 3.69$ 16640 flashlight.
That thing is very poorly made and doesn’t work properly.

But I am very anticipated for the C8F.

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 411

They generally seem to be piss poor.

Except in the minds of a recent plethora of, previously unknown to me, reviewers with freebies.

Barkuti seems to think there might be some small some merit to be extracted by knowledgeable modders prepared to change out major components, but I’ve seen no (believable) good reports, whatsoever, so far, for any of them.

Waiting to be convinced otherwise, and if Sofirn want to send me something they think is worth reviewing honestly, I’d be quite willing.

A shame, because it is difficult nowadays to make such elementary mistakes.

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 52 sec ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4289
Location: South Europe

I ordered couple of lights and got C8F for a reivew, they are on the way, disassembly guaranteed…

 

Tom Tom
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 09/10/2017 - 08:30
Posts: 411
Sirius9 wrote:
I ordered couple of lights and got C8F for a reivew, they are on the way, disassembly guaranteed…

Turn it on first with a decent cell inside, and see whether any emitters turn blue and die in the first seconds…

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56661

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 52 sec ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4289
Location: South Europe
Facepalm will do.

 

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 3123
Location: Germany

yeah the light had potential on paper, nice boost driver with 3S input

The thickness of the shelf is not too bad, the LED should have on no serious problem on a non DTP copper star @2.54A

but without heat path to body good it wopuld probably kill the LED, which has a good light color at lest
but they definitely need to learn how to machine a part that gets press fit, so that the shelf outside has a small rim where it is a bit thinner than the body, and then the rest of it is a bit bigger than the body, so the “hollow” part of the shelf tube gets compressed

I am going to order a 20mm Sinkpad-II for XHP 50
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...
http://www.leddna.com/pre-order-sinkpad-xhp50-21mm-copper-12v-or-6v/
http://www.lck-led.com/sinkpad-copper-base-21mm-star-board-xhp50-p-1296....

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

I have gotten 3 Sofirn lights to review, the first was a big showerhead and while it didn’t meet output claims it is a decent robust light.

The 26650 SP33 is a really nice light, I like it a lot. Well built with nice features it does what they say and is very reminiscent of a Thorfire light. Side switch with the partially covered lit button, like the Thrunite TN42. Beam is a big hot spot with small aura and nice spill, this light is well done no matter who’s name is associated with it. It’s directly comparable to the Lumintop SD26, which I bought not too long ago, and for the price difference the Sofirn probably wins but the Lumintop is a more svelte light overall.

The third is a little AA light with a warm white emitter, it’s nice and works fine but it is way too warm for my taste. This is the SF31, a tube light with fins at the shelf area. It’s regulated output and you see a slight delay when shifting modes, smooth in use and likeable as an EDC, it has 4 modes with a very decent moon. I swapped out the LED to a whiter XP-L2 1D and the beam is much more to my liking. This small reflector light has a very mild orange peel, transition between hot spot and aura/spill is softer, less defined.

The only one of the three that seemed not well thought out is the big shower head SF22. Finish is a nice matte black and the 18 emitters actually do a pretty nice job, it just didn’t make the claimed output out of the box. A bit of work and it’s functioning at a pretty nice level. I’m using it with 2 cells instead of 4.

Just ordered the new C8F triple XP-G3 today, so we’ll see how that goes. I’m betting it’ll be sweet with the emitters swapped out for XP-L2 1D’s. Wink

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

The 20mm SinkPAD for XM-L works perfectly for the XHP-50, same footprint. There are large diameter Maxtoch MCPCB’s in DTP copper that are made for the XM-L footprint as well, one of those may work best by covering the entire emitter shelf in that light. Of course, 20mm Noctigon’s for XM also work.

That “press fit” emitter shelf may not have had a fit side to side, but the aluminum shelf was still sitting on the aluminum body so heat transfer was still taking place even if not optimal. There are simple fixes for that, all P60 modders know how to take care of that problem really quickly. Wink

Dale

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 52 sec ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4289
Location: South Europe
DB Custom wrote:
The third is a little AA light with a warm white emitter, it’s nice and works fine but it is way too warm for my taste.

I just (last week) ordered SF10 and SF12, both AA lights, hope they turn up nice, I like WW tints 3500-4000K is nice Big Smile

 

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 3123
Location: Germany

DB Custom wrote:
The 20mm SinkPAD for XM-L works perfectly for the XHP-50, same footprint. There are large diameter Maxtoch MCPCB’s in DTP copper that are made for the XM-L footprint as well, one of those may work best by covering the entire emitter shelf in that light. Of course, 20mm Noctigon’s for XM also work.

That “press fit” emitter shelf may not have had a fit side to side, but the aluminum shelf was still sitting on the aluminum body so heat transfer was still taking place even if not optimal. There are simple fixes for that, all P60 modders know how to take care of that problem really quickly. Wink

that is the problem here
The shelf sits on the driver, which is not a MCPCB

I checked the current with 2.45A, but you are right its a 6V board, not a 12V,
so the claimed lumens cant be reached even with a J4 bin and 12% losses they are

they not even driving the LED to its rated current

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 3168
Location: nyc
Tom Tom wrote:
Sirius9 wrote:
I ordered couple of lights and got C8F for a reivew, they are on the way, disassembly guaranteed…

Turn it on first with a decent cell inside, and see whether any emitters turn blue and die in the first seconds…

Topped-off 30Q right out of the charger, lit up a tree outside like it was on fire, almost like that NKVD comic.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 3168
Location: nyc
Sirius9 wrote:
I just (last week) ordered SF10 and SF12, both AA lights, hope they turn up nice, I like WW tints 3500-4000K is nice Big Smile

SP10A, really nice and EDCable, even for me, and I’m not really a fan of eswitch-only lights.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

In your video, you show the emitter shelf as a cup, with the sides being well below the shelf the emitter sits on. You also show bare aluminum inside the battery tube which holds this cup, so the emitter shelf/heat sink is in fact in contact with the bare metal of the battery tube thus heat sinking the emitter through contact. No? Did I see your video wrong?

Dale

AlexGT
AlexGT's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 50 min ago
Joined: 06/07/2012 - 17:39
Posts: 3349
Location: Texas

That sucks! Maybe install copper tape and a small amount of Arctic Silver 5 around the base to help transfer the heat tot he body…

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 3123
Location: Germany
DB Custom wrote:
In your video, you show the emitter shelf as a cup, with the sides being well below the shelf the emitter sits on. You also show bare aluminum inside the battery tube which holds this cup, so the emitter shelf/heat sink is in fact in contact with the bare metal of the battery tube thus heat sinking the emitter through contact. No? Did I see your video wrong?

Review ongoing

The shelf rests on the driver!
worst case is when the bezel gets tightened the shelf has almost no contact to the body

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 773
Location: Germany

Where did you check the 2.45 A current – at cell or at LED?

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 15 hours ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9947
Location: Charente France

Lexel, I dont get it, you talk about press fit and using a tool and force to get it out but then it rattles and drops out…huh?
Does this mean that BEFORE yu used the tool and applied force it was firmly in, thus not floating, thus giving a good heatpath to the housing? And if it was floating why the need of using the tool and force?
puzzling, for the topic title make it seem like there is no heat path and just a floating thingy, but why why the tool and force and speaking of “hammered in there with a lotof force, hard to pull it out”?

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 773
Location: Germany

The Miller, I had to watch the video several times until I understood that he used this tool with the Klarus flashlight and not with the Sofirn.

The Miller
The Miller's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 15 hours ago
Joined: 12/14/2015 - 12:08
Posts: 9947
Location: Charente France

Ah hahaha that makes sense Smile

everydaysurvivalgear
everydaysurvivalgear's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 51 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2015 - 10:25
Posts: 2539
Location: sydney australia (GMT+10)

Fairly easy to understand the pill is press/friction fit inside the housing it has no way of attaching to the body. It does not screw in place or is not glued down. It is held in place by the force of the reflector and bezel!
Yes there is a lip/shelf around the pill that may touch the light in some areas. But if it fits in so easy and is so easy to pull out how good is it connecting to the body? How much contact area do you have? Like it can rattle around in the light and not make proper contact. Even with that lip its still a fairly small area of contact to the body when it is actually making proper contact? Could be a gap of a hundred of a mm around the pill to the body?

I have similiar built lights with the same design they dont have much of a heat path.

!DSC_3769!

!DSC_3767!

This light is a fairly under driven headlamp compared to the XHP50 that is in the Sofirn which is meant to be running at 30w

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

Ah! I see, the video didn’t show the driver installed so it was unclear the relationship.

Yes, I too wondered about the talk of the heavily indented wood as to how difficult it was to pull the emitter shelf/heat sink. Misleading a bit there, placing the wood on top of this light and explaining it.

Of course it would be easy to foil wrap it and reinstall, but the factory should have a proper fitment not requiring intervention. I’ll ask Tracy about it, see what she says…

Dale

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 773
Location: Germany

The inside of the battery-tube (where the shelf-cup sits) might be slightly cone-shaped, and ideally the shelf-cup too. In this case there could be good thermal contact when pressed in by the reflector (and the shelf-cup would be lose and rattle if not pressed in). Perhaps SOFIRN uses this construction. Can the shelf be moved sideways when pressed down by hand?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

I asked Tracy to check into the matter, we’ll see if her engineers give an adequate explanation…

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

Is it just me? Why do they make a nice metal pad on the driver where the screw holds it down and then NOT use a panhead screw? Wouldn’t a brass pan head make much more contact and carry better ground current? Most lights are this way, how do the engineers miss that important little detail?

Dale

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 3123
Location: Germany
DB Custom wrote:
Is it just me? Why do they make a nice metal pad on the driver where the screw holds it down and then NOT use a panhead screw? Wouldn’t a brass pan head make much more contact and carry better ground current? Most lights are this way, how do the engineers miss that important little detail?

You are right with the screws, but the opposite side the whole driver rests with a nice gold plated surface on the blank body
I replaced the driver screws with flat heads from a Laptop

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

I have stood accused of having beefed up numbers on my builds for a long time. The truth of the matter is that I was willing to spend the time on each and every light to reduce resistance everywhere I could find it, and by going to such great pains to eliminate all waste my lights produced higher outputs than most were accustomed to seeing. There are now a lot more people also doing similar and my numbers are not always higher, those that used to accuse me are silent.

Attention to detail accounts for a lot in most things, I believe that when we see a company paying close attention to every detail, we see a better product and are proud to own it. Perhaps Sofirn will be one of those companies, they are new and are trying, so if they listen to the people like on this forum, they can make slight adjustments and have a far better product for it.

Thank you for the pics and efforts taken on this light to show us what it does well, and where it falls short. Appreciate it. Wink

Dale

Dusty
Online
Last seen: 3 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 07:58
Posts: 329
Location: Left Coast of Michigan

I would say it is a manufacturing error. I don’t have this particular light, but I have the SF11 (4 AA), that is similarly constructed. Mine is tightly pressed in.

Brianbug

Ronin42
Ronin42's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 8 hours ago
Joined: 12/17/2014 - 22:17
Posts: 1627
Location: Alameda, CA

I was thinking that the P60 mod would work just fine here.

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 16259
Location: Heart of Texas

Has anyone heard if Sofirn is associated with another manufacturer? I don’t know if they’re a small company just getting started or a sister to a larger already known company. If they’re just getting started, they’re doing a fine job… missing a few details but they seem to have their ears open as to how to make improvements.

Dale

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 3168
Location: nyc
DB Custom wrote:
Has anyone heard if Sofirn is associated with another manufacturer? I don’t know if they’re a small company just getting started or a sister to a larger already known company. If they’re just getting started, they’re doing a fine job… missing a few details but they seem to have their ears open as to how to make improvements.

There are a lot of almost light “clones” between Sofirn and Thorfire, but I have no idea if there’s any formal relationship between the two.

I’ve made a few suggestions behind-the-scenes, and apparently some of them were taken, so there seems to be some independent r&d on the Sofirn side. I still say the warm-white SF31 is one of the nicest lights I’ve seen. Big Smile And the SP10A is quite nice, too.

 

Reminds me, I gotta pull a lot of pix off my phone. Don’t think it’s my phone, but the damned usb cable that ain’t making the connection. And all I got are charging cables… (Insert “duuuh!” here.)

 

Anyhoo, the C8 with the trip XP-G3s is quite nice, or will be, once the kinks are smoothed out. I don’t think Thorfire has one like that (yet?). Different depths of the reflectors, the position of the integrated shelf, etc., make at least the head a completely different part.

My guess is that the main issue with Sofirn is consistency. Eg, to mount trip XP-G3s, it’s one thing to reflow them onto a single MCPCB. But then the reflector has the 3 holes for the emitters. They either need to match up exactly, or there’ll be stress once the reflector is placed over them, and magnified once it’s torqued down. Enough to shear one or more chips off the MCPCB? Maybe. With 3 separate MCPCBs floating on thermal goop (not adhesive!), they can self-align, within reason.

So it’s growing-pains. You try this, it doesn’t quite work consistently. You try something new, it works a little better. Etc., etc.

“Try again. Fail again. Fail better.”
— Samuel Beckett

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Pages