Convoy S2 XD16 build with DIY MCPCB Fail

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cadmium
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Convoy S2 XD16 build with DIY MCPCB Fail

I got the xd16 from arrow today and attempted to build a light with it. I didn’t have the correct mcpcb board, so I modified an aluminum xpe board by slotting the center pad with a jewelers saw blade. I then removed insulation from the center pad to solder wires to. I used a convoy s2 host with a smooth reflector, m4 plastic washer spacer and a random 8× 7135 driver. When testing it, the first mode put out about 200 lumens and did not focus well with a little bit of tint shift. Next mode resulted in a blue flash and dead led. I didn’t measure current when trying this. This DIY board method can’t support much current sadly.
Left Xq-e on 20mm board, middle xd16 unmounted, right xb-d

soldered to board

In S2 host, centering is a pain.

Flashlights are the nerf guns of the energy weapon world.

djozz
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Thanks for trying! Let’s see what a test of the XD16 tells us. I have not been able to obtain this led yet (by the end of this month RS should have them), Arrow is out of my reach unfortunately. Perhaps Koef3 can get his hands on some for testing.

kiriba-ru
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When metal core pcb were not available, cree suggested to use regular pcbs with through-holes under thermal pad for high-output (for those times) leds. Holes had to be filled with solder.
If you want to test led, but dont have proper pcb, you can order (or handmade) thin fr4 pcb with right electical pads, then drill a holes (or even add this holes to your project files before ordering) under thermal pad and fill them with pieces of copper (from solid core wire). After you can add suitable thickness copper shim under this pcb and solder this sandwich together.

koef3
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djozz wrote:
Perhaps Koef3 can get his hands on some for testing.

Yeah, I wait that Mouser have them in stock. (Also for the Osram Compact PL, too.)
But I am not very optimistic about this XD16 LED. Way to small (difficult handling and therefore limited maximum heat dissipation), and no dedicated thermal pad which makes the use of Cu-(DTP) boards necessary.

In general it seems that the XD16 is not really suitable for DIY lights.

My LED tests: --- Nichia 319AT 83 CRI - Lumileds Luxeon MZ 5700 K (90 CRI, 3 V) - Luxeon V (CSP) 4000 K 70CRI - Luminus SST-40-W (+ dedomed) - Cree XP-L2 (+ High CRI variant) - XHP35 HI - XHP70.2 - CXA1304 COB - OSRAM OSLON Black Flat HWQP - SYNIOS DMLQ31.SGLE UW Q8WP - unknown 5050 LED ---- finished: JAXMAN M8 (Mini C8) HighCRI Triple

cadmium
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I looked at the fr4 pcb I have on hand and haven’t found anything appropriate yet. The closest would be perforated proto board, but that would only put two holes near the led and not directly under. This would be more metal mass, but mostly surrounded by insulation. I am considering redoing this with an xml board to have wider traces under the led. For the future, I might try an inverted version of kiriba-ru’s sandwich idea. I would cut a copper board into halves, and solder the led directly to the copper. The pcb board would be riveted to the copper halves to hold it together. The halves could also be glued together, but I would need to find a glue that will handle the reflow temperatures.

I didn’t expect the xd16 to handle crazy currents, but was hoping to at least beat the rated specs by a bit. I have mounted an xd16 to an xqe 20mm board, and will be mounting it in a light soon. This board has extremely narrow traces, so I don’t expect this one to handle much current either.

Flashlights are the nerf guns of the energy weapon world.