(BLF) Sofirn Q8 V1.5: The XPL HI monster, DIY parts + Extended 8x18650 tubes GB Interest List

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d_t_a
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ToyKeeper wrote:
nobeltnium wrote:
Are there any way for the user to calibrate the temperature sensor of the light?

With the right firmware, yes. Anduril has a thermal calibration / configuration mode.

Something I was wondering if this would work.

BLF Q8 with NarsilM v1.0 (or v1.2) doesn’t have thermal calibration feature.

Let’s say the stock BLF Q8 (or other NarsilM flashlight for that matter) is very wrong (eg. ambient is 25 deg C, but “thermal check” reads 45 deg C)
Say I flash it to Anduril, then I calibrate the temperature there (25 deg C more or less is 25 deg C)
When I flash the Q8 back to NarsilM (say v1.2), will the thermal sensor (which was previously calibrated when it had Anduril) be back to the earlier wrong reading, or will it become correct (the value configured in Anduril), or just some other random thermal value?

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nobeltnium wrote:

Is the CDR number indicate discharge rate at all time, like until the battery is nearly depleted or it’s just the average rate?

HKJ and Mooch both put constant loads on the batteries starting at 4.2v and ending at 2.8v and discharge it at multiple rates. To get a continuous rating the cell has to stay within a “safe” temperature range. I think this is below 80°C.
nobeltnium wrote:

On the side note: Are there any way for the user to calibrate the temperature sensor of the light? It kinda pointless having a thermometer that isn’t accurate isn’t it?

It can be a bit off. It just means the light might thermally stepdown too early or too late. Usually the factory setting is pretty close. You can customize the step down temp to whatever you want or switch to a timed stepdown.

When setting the thermal step down temperature yourself, the light will turn on to turbo and then you just hold the light until you think it’s hot enough and then click the button. So you don’t actually have to know an exact temperature number to set it. Whatever temperature number it read when you set the limit is when it will step down in the future.

The temperature sensor is built into the MCU chip and you can’t really get super accurate reading from this style of sensor compared to an externally mounted sensor. It still works fine, though. You don’t even have to have a thermal step down if you don’t want it. You can turn it off and then control the temperature manually like most lights.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

ToyKeeper
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d_t_a wrote:
When I flash the Q8 back to NarsilM (say v1.2), will the thermal sensor (which was previously calibrated when it had Anduril) be back to the earlier wrong reading…?

Yes, it will return to its original wrong reading.

JasonWW
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d_t_a wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
nobeltnium wrote:
Are there any way for the user to calibrate the temperature sensor of the light?

With the right firmware, yes. Anduril has a thermal calibration / configuration mode.

Something I was wondering if this would work.

BLF Q8 with NarsilM v1.0 (or v1.2) doesn’t have thermal calibration feature.

Let’s say the stock BLF Q8 (or other NarsilM flashlight for that matter) is very wrong (eg. ambient is 25 deg C, but “thermal check” reads 45 deg C)
Say I flash it to Anduril, then I calibrate the temperature there (25 deg C more or less is 25 deg C)
When I flash the Q8 back to NarsilM (say v1.2), will the thermal sensor (which was previously calibrated when it had Anduril) be back to the earlier wrong reading, or will it become correct (the value configured in Anduril), or just some other random thermal value?


I think I can answer this.

I believe the way Anduril calibrates it’s sensor is to just adjust using a correction factor meaning it adds or subtracts a certain amount from its reading. So if the light is actually 25°C and it’s thermometer says 45°C (the tolerance would not be that high, maybe plus or minus 10°C is more accurate) then you would tell it to subtract 20° from all its temp readings. Now it’s “accurate”.

If you flash to NarsilM, that correction factor disappears along with all the Anduril code. So it should be back to reading 45°C.

As it was said earlier, the MCU does not really need to know the accurate temperature. It just needs to know the relative temperature so that it can activate the thermal step down.

I’m not sure why ToyKeeper added a temperature calibration circuit, since it’s technically not needed. Maybe there’s something specific to Anduril that needs to know the actual temperature?

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

contactcr
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Because you click however many degrees above 30C you want it to step down at. 60C = click 30 times. So now you have a calibrated temp and a more precise step down setting.

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contactcr wrote:
Because you click however many degrees above 30C you want it to step down at. 60C = click 30 times. So now you have a calibrated temp and a more precise step down setting.

Is this in reference to me asking why Toykeeper added the temperature calibration?

Why do you need precision? My hands tell me when it is hot enough. The thermal step-downs main purpose is just to prevent you from burning your hands. Eh, no big deal.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

contactcr
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Why not? Why do people like Android phones over Apple and vice versa? With a value I can (easily) tweak it a little higher or lower as I wish. They both get the job done.

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JasonWW wrote:
I’m not sure why ToyKeeper added a temperature calibration circuit, since it’s technically not needed. Maybe there’s something specific to Anduril that needs to know the actual temperature?

I like the simplicity of hold-until-hot, but in this case I went for something a little more complicated in order to get better results.

Running a light in turbo until it feels hot enough… is kind of obnoxious and imprecise and not feasible at a factory… especially on bigger lights where it takes a long time to heat up.

The calibration function makes it much easier to get consistent behavior on each light. In theory, the company making or selling it could calibrate each unit in about 30 to 45 seconds, and avoid a lot of issues with products overheating.

If it’s not factory-calibrated though, it’s still reasonably simple for a user to do it, and faster than the hold-until-hot method. Go to thermal config mode, click enough times to tell it the current temperature, then wait a few seconds for it to fall out and go back to its previous state.

Anyway, hopefully the factory or vendor will do it so the user doesn’t have to.

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
I’m not sure why ToyKeeper added a temperature calibration circuit, since it’s technically not needed. Maybe there’s something specific to Anduril that needs to know the actual temperature?

I like the simplicity of hold-until-hot, but in this case I went for something a little more complicated in order to get better results.

Running a light in turbo until it feels hot enough… is kind of obnoxious and imprecise and not feasible at a factory… especially on bigger lights where it takes a long time to heat up.

The calibration function makes it much easier to get consistent behavior on each light. In theory, the company making or selling it could calibrate each unit in about 30 to 45 seconds, and avoid a lot of issues with products overheating.

If it’s not factory-calibrated though, it’s still reasonably simple for a user to do it, and faster than the hold-until-hot method. Go to thermal config mode, click enough times to tell it the current temperature, then wait a few seconds for it to fall out and go back to its previous state.

Anyway, hopefully the factory or vendor will do it so the user doesn’t have to.


Ah, fast factory calibration. That makes sense. Do you think Lumintop will try to calibrate all the FW3A lights?

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

ToyKeeper
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JasonWW wrote:
Do you think Lumintop will try to calibrate all the FW3A lights?

I don’t know, but I hope so. I recommend it, repeatedly, to everyone who sells lights with Anduril (or RampingIOS V3, which also supports calibration). It improves things for users, and should reduce return rates for vendors, by preventing common issues.

nobeltnium
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JasonWW wrote:

It can be a bit off. It just means the light might thermally stepdown too early or too late. Usually the factory setting is pretty close. You can customize the step down temp to whatever you want or switch to a timed stepdown.

When setting the thermal step down temperature yourself, the light will turn on to turbo and then you just hold the light until you think it’s hot enough and then click the button. So you don’t actually have to know an exact temperature number to set it. Whatever temperature number it read when you set the limit is when it will step down in the future.

The temperature sensor is built into the MCU chip and you can’t really get super accurate reading from this style of sensor compared to an externally mounted sensor. It still works fine, though. You don’t even have to have a thermal step down if you don’t want it. You can turn it off and then control the temperature manually like most lights.

Actually it off ALOT. When i temp checked it read 42 Celcius but room temp was 20+! And ofcourse the light was not being used. I use the time stepdown setting wich reduce turbo after 7 mins. However i like to play with the temp check, it just that i like to use it that’s all, to me it’s not a big deal anyway but having it off too much make me itchy.

Why are you looking at this? It's nothing here!

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nobeltnium wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

It can be a bit off. It just means the light might thermally stepdown too early or too late. Usually the factory setting is pretty close. You can customize the step down temp to whatever you want or switch to a timed stepdown.

When setting the thermal step down temperature yourself, the light will turn on to turbo and then you just hold the light until you think it’s hot enough and then click the button. So you don’t actually have to know an exact temperature number to set it. Whatever temperature number it read when you set the limit is when it will step down in the future.

The temperature sensor is built into the MCU chip and you can’t really get super accurate reading from this style of sensor compared to an externally mounted sensor. It still works fine, though. You don’t even have to have a thermal step down if you don’t want it. You can turn it off and then control the temperature manually like most lights.

Actually it off ALOT. When i temp checked it read 42 Celcius but room temp was 20+! And ofcourse the light was not being used. I use the time stepdown setting wich reduce turbo after 7 mins. However i like to play with the temp check, it just that i like to use it that’s all, to me it’s not a big deal anyway but having it off too much make me itchy.


I have 3 lights with NarsilM. At 23°C room temp I got, 19°, 21° and 22°. You certainly have a large deviation. Are the lights internals at room temp? Any time you use the light it gets warm internally and you have to wait maybe an hour or more for it to fully cool down even though the exterior may already be cool.

It’s very easy to set your own temp stepdown if you want to switch from timed. I did a video on just this procedure.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

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DavidEF wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Sofirn wrote:
L4M4 wrote:
I like the battery tube more than on the old Q8, too.

But – What does the “T” on the switch stand for?
I thought it stands for the manufacturer of the old Q8 – THorfire – will we get a different switch-cover on the Sofirn Q8?
Or are they also manufactured by Thorfire??

T stands for nothing but for better finger touching. It could be many dots or other designs but we already have this. We might use new design of the cap if there is good new idea.

Do you have any ideas?


I assumed “T” was for Thorfire. If you did order new ones, maybe use a “S” for Sofirn. IDK, it’s not a big deal. Maybe even a blank cover.

I’d say don’t waste time or money on new caps. Use up what you’ve got. It doesn’t change the functionality of the light. Wink

I agree. However after depletion of caps stock I would consider doing something stylish.
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JasonWW wrote:

I have 3 lights with NarsilM. At 23°C room temp I got, 19°, 21° and 22°. You certainly have a large deviation. Are the lights internals at room temp? Any time you use the light it gets warm internally and you have to wait maybe an hour or more for it to fully cool down even though the exterior may already be cool.

It’s very easy to set your own temp stepdown if you want to switch from timed. I did a video on just this procedure.


Like i said, the light was not being used. So i’m pretty sure the internal temp is equal to the room temperature. I know how to switch to thermal stepdown, but i don’t want to use it. Just want to check the temperature that’s all, weird hobby right? Silly

Why are you looking at this? It's nothing here!

ToyKeeper
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JasonWW wrote:
I have 3 lights with NarsilM. At 23°C room temp I got, 19°, 21° and 22°.

It sounds like you have been lucky. I have seen identical lights report temperatures 20 C apart. The firmware’s default value is intentionally toward the safe end of that scale, since it’s typically better for some lights to step down early than for some lights to step down too late.

Anyway, with a range of perhaps 25 C variation from one light to another, it’s useful to have a calibration function. Aside from improving safety and consistency, it also makes the temperature check function sort of useful as a thermometer.

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So guys and gals, Sofirn has told me that they’ll soon start shipping the extended battery tubes for the Q8, along with carriers which will hopefully have, as they said before, upgraded springs.

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Got this link from Barry yesterday, lego-fun with battery tubes Party

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yup, 70cm torch for walking the dog

contactcr
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any word on battery tubes?

Barry0892
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Battery tubes is ready to manufacture for BLF Q8, but a group buy interest list will help.

Not Enough Great Lights

Not in ThorFire Team since June

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Oh OK then.

Perfect. I’ll perhaps be in line to buy one.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
Oh OK then.

Perfect. I’ll perhaps be in line to buy one.

So…
Barry0892 wrote:
…a group buy interest list will help.
Innocent

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Ok then. Since I’m free this evening, perhaps I should start a group buy thread list for this extended tube/light.

Or I’ll just repurpose this thread for both info about the Q8 V1.5 and the extended battery tube GB.

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Barry0892 wrote:
Battery tubes is ready to manufacture for BLF Q8, but a group buy interest list will help.

I would def be in for the one of the Extended battery tubes and carriers!

Acebeam X70 – BLF GT70 – BLF Q8 – Acebeam X80GT – Acebeam X45 – Astrolux MF01 – Noctigon Meteor M43 – Thrunite TN36 Limited – Emisar D4S – Emisar D4 – Lumintop GT Mini – Olight S10 Baton – Olight SMINI Baton Ti – Mateminco X6S – Mateminco S03

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Fate0n3 wrote:
I would def be in for the one of the Extended battery tubes and carriers!

I can see no need or reason for this so put me down for one Crazy
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UPDATE 2

The BLF Q8 and Sofirn Q8 extended 8×18650 tubes have started to be manufactured.

I will be starting a group buy interest list to gauge interest and how many tubes you want so Sofirn can produce the right amount of carriers and tubes necessary.

BlueSwordM has been added to the list for +1

Fate0n3 has been added to the list for +1

Sillen has been added to the list +1

contactcr
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Add me but wouldnt you need at least 2 tubes to make 8 batteries? It replaces the existing one?

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They are probably going to send an extended tube with threads that can be turned on the normal tube+2 carriers.

TLDR: 1 tube that threads on the existing one+ 2 carriers hopefully.

contactr has been added to the list +1

Edit: Not so sure about that anymore.

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contactcr wrote:
Add me but wouldnt you need at least 2 tubes to make 8 batteries? It replaces the existing one?

This is what I was going to ask if these will be sold as an almost “Kit” such as 2ea tubes and 2ea battery carriers to make this work or if we need to purchase 2ea of each. If that make sense lol

Acebeam X70 – BLF GT70 – BLF Q8 – Acebeam X80GT – Acebeam X45 – Astrolux MF01 – Noctigon Meteor M43 – Thrunite TN36 Limited – Emisar D4S – Emisar D4 – Lumintop GT Mini – Olight S10 Baton – Olight SMINI Baton Ti – Mateminco X6S – Mateminco S03

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BlueSwordM wrote:
They are probably going to send an extended tube with threads that can be turned on the normal tube+2 carriers.

TLDR: 1 tube that threads on the existing one+ 2 carriers hopefully.

contactr has been added to the list +1

Can the BLF Q8 original tube be used with a carrier it looks like it is machined tube? Sheesh this is gonna make me buy the new Sofrin edition also now so I can have a light each way… lol

Acebeam X70 – BLF GT70 – BLF Q8 – Acebeam X80GT – Acebeam X45 – Astrolux MF01 – Noctigon Meteor M43 – Thrunite TN36 Limited – Emisar D4S – Emisar D4 – Lumintop GT Mini – Olight S10 Baton – Olight SMINI Baton Ti – Mateminco X6S – Mateminco S03

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