Couldn’t find the answer to that question. Thought someone here might have one. I like the light but that striker thing is out of control. 
Yes…but it doesn’t help you because the striker is part of the bezel. So you can remove it, but then the reflector falls out. What exactly do you like about that light if its not the bezel? That’s pretty much the only unique thing about it.
I just like the design and UI of the light. I like the momentary on, on the tail cap. I have an older M18 Maverick and was wanting something similar with a boost in output. Just didn’t like the “smash in your face” bezel. I like the S2 Baton, but it doesn’t have a tail switch.
Use a belt sander to grind them off?
I’ll try to remove it from mine tonight, I’d guess it can be swapped by an S30RII one, or even an S30 one.
I’ll tell you what
EDIT : what you’re looking for, IMHO, is the M2T
Might have to try that. I think that would work. That light didn’t even occur to me. Thanks for the suggestion.
Give it the Foy treatment.
I tried to remove the bezel on my M1X… well Olight stands right with its reputation once again, I can’t even unsrew it.
I’ll try in a vice with some rubber grip and a large pair of pliers one day.
The strike bezel definitely comes off. Here’s mine sitting on the desk. This photo and the disassembly was done several years ago so I can’t recall many details about it all, but knowing Olight I’d expect it to be glued hard. Add heat and use strap wrenches.
But as you can see the entire bezel comes, not just the strikey bits. You’d have to either grind off the pokey bits and deal with the raw aluminum , or find a replacement part from a donor light. You’re better off just finding a more appropriate lights, imo.
You already have a natural grooved cut line. If you don’t have lathe access you can do this yourself with a crisp hack saw. Just go slow, and follow the groove. Vice it up with a piece of leather to protect it unless you have nylon jaws or akin to it. Keep it nice and jawed tight, without it being held at a vertical slant. The more it’s close to 90 degrees in the jaws the better your cut will be. Again clamp it vertically so that you don’t even to begin crush it. Then it’s definitely toast and essentially non-threadable. You can always rotate it in the jaws too if that helps you stay within the groove. You do have a clear view of how your cut’s going by looking at it constantly from the side or eye level.
(In fact, doing this on a lathe has its inherent risks because of inadvertantly applying too much jaw pressure and crushing it - making it even minutely ‘out of round’ thread-wise is toastville. Milling it off vertically in half or so increments with a mill is kinda safer but you prolly don’t have access to one either I assume.)
Then take a sheet of 200 grit metal sandpaper, or medium grit, put it on top of something FLAT like a sheet of glass. Take your now parted off lower piece and rub it around in circles paying attention not to tilt it. Get it as even as you can, then finish it off with fine or ultra fine grit same sandpaper. You can dampen it with water of course too when doing the final sanding.
I would then polish off the anodizing (or use something like Greased Lightning - available at Home Depot, etc.) , if you don’t want to cover up the now exposed silver aluminum cut with a black marker.
Then just buff it up to a shine with auto type mag wheel polish, or take that ultra fine sandpaper and gently abrade it to give you a dull satin type finish.
I wouldn’t grind it down either. Believe it or not that’s a lot of manual grinding much less to keep it half way even. Also too easy for most home hobbyists to add another crenallation or at minimum a flying hot bezel. :laughing:
PS. I can’t tell from the pics if that groove cut off still retains your reflector. If it doesn’t scratch all the previous but at least it gives you an idea of another way to part things up manually.