[♛ FreemeGB] Haikelite MT09R 3x XHP70.2 25,000lm & 3x XHP35 Hi 6500LM Flashlight Group Buy -【 ACTIVE 】

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Brainsick67
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Taschenrechner wrote:
Brainsick67 wrote:
Anybody get theres yet? Mine should be here Today.

yes, the light (silver, NW, XHP70.2) was delivered yesterday.. but I had no time to play with it yet. Sad

Glad it was Delivered, hope you can PLAY with it soon.
Texas_Ace
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ZozzV6 wrote:
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Very nice, that is what I was hoping they would do. Much better then the bypasses they were using. These are simpler and much more reliable for production.
For production it is safe and good and the 18300 lumens is brutal but as a modder I want the max. Big Smile So I removed the little spring inside and done 18 AWG wire bypass. Also added more solder to spring base. And I saw that the mark on battery contact board was only a small dot which is the spring end. I bented down the spring end a little and after that I see a circle mark so the spring contacts even and a much bigger area. !{width:70%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2596...!

Yep, that is the idea, with double springs those that want can still bypass them but for the masses it is more reliable.

I had countless spring bypasses fail before I really dialed in my technique. I just don’t trust line workers to get it right.

What are the numbers now with the bypasses?

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Texas_Ace wrote:
What are the numbers now with the bypasses?

I don’t know yet. I’m at work and literally nothing to do so I brought in the flashlight to play with and do the bypasses. Big Smile
I have 9 and a half hour left here so tomorrow morning I will get the numbers when I get home.
Taschenrechner
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So.. I had time to play with that light. I’am impressed, it’s really very bright and at the same time very handy.

For me personally the light could have mehr throw and less flood. It’s not so glare-free at higher levels. A smaller spot would help there. And I lost the turn on button (temporarily) – it should be glued or maybe it should be bigger at it’s footprint.

Brainsick67
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She gets hot super fast, i dont know when the Thermal Protection kicks in…but its not fast enough. My hand still feels like its burning a lil bit.

Texas_Ace
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Brainsick67 wrote:
She gets hot super fast, i dont know when the Thermal Protection kicks in…but its not fast enough. My hand still feels like its burning a lil bit.

By defualt it should kick in around ~55c but the variance in the thermal sensor is around +/-10c, so it could be higher.

It is quite simple to recalibrate the thermal regulation in the menu though, so feel free to do that and you can set it to whatever temp you want.

Brainsick67
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Brainsick67 wrote:
She gets hot super fast, i dont know when the Thermal Protection kicks in…but its not fast enough. My hand still feels like its burning a lil bit.

By defualt it should kick in around ~55c but the variance in the thermal sensor is around +/-10c, so it could be higher.

It is quite simple to recalibrate the thermal regulation in the menu though, so feel free to do that and you can set it to whatever temp you want.


Thats hot, 131F..i saw that..if you do that..is 30sec the Minimum? Or can you set to what you want? Thanks
BlueSwordM
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I doubt these are Beryllium Copper springs.

They’re probably phosphor bronze springs. They are also quite thin. Could someone measure their thickness? I would love to know.

Texas_Ace
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55c is considered “safe” by most standards in the sense it will not cause burns before reflexes kick in and you can let go.

You can actually hold 55c without damage for a little bit, it is hot but possible. I do this regularly.

It is setup by temperature, the manual should explain the process but once you enter the calibration you simply turn the light off when it is as hot as you would want it to get and that becomes the new set temp for the light.

Brainsick67
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Texas_Ace wrote:
55c is considered “safe” by most standards in the sense it will not cause burns before reflexes kick in and you can let go.

You can actually hold 55c without damage for a little bit, it is hot but possible. I do this regularly.

It is setup by temperature, the manual should explain the process but once you enter the calibration you simply turn the light off when it is as hot as you would want it to get and that becomes the new set temp for the light.


I will look into it, it is to hot for me…THANKS
freeme
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I wonder why they didn't consider deep fins design like MT03 for MT09R? 

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BlueSwordM wrote:
I doubt these are Beryllium Copper springs.

They’re probably phosphor bronze springs. They are also quite thin. Could someone measure their thickness? I would love to know.


0.5mm
BlueSwordM
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That is quite thin. As expected from just looking at the picture.

I think they could have gone with thicker wire, like 0,7mm, or even 0,8mm. But that still is a better decision that either leaving the steel springs alone, or bypassing the springs, which comes with a huge risk from the manufacturer.

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JasonWW wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:



What!? The driver has a bible verse on it? That’s crazy.

It just means the MT09R is the true grail light.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
What are the numbers now with the bypasses?

I don’t know yet. I’m at work and literally nothing to do so I brought in the flashlight to play with and do the bypasses. Big Smile
I have 9 and a half hour left here so tomorrow morning I will get the numbers when I get home.

I’m home. The batteries at 4.01,4.05V and it puts out with these 19950 lumens. Now I putted them on the charger and wait because I want to use same set as the stock 18300 lumens measurement.
aors10
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Please me coupon

Bruno28
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Interested. Thanks

ZozzV6
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My final number with all spring bypasses with 20 AWG in battery tube and 18 AWG on driver. Fully charged LG HG2s.
21120 lumens

JasonWW
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Brainsick67 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Brainsick67 wrote:
She gets hot super fast, i dont know when the Thermal Protection kicks in…but its not fast enough. My hand still feels like its burning a lil bit.

By defualt it should kick in around ~55c but the variance in the thermal sensor is around +/-10c, so it could be higher.

It is quite simple to recalibrate the thermal regulation in the menu though, so feel free to do that and you can set it to whatever temp you want.


Thats hot, 131F..i saw that..if you do that..is 30sec the Minimum? Or can you set to what you want? Thanks

I did a video on setting the temperature. If your in ramping mode, make sure you ramp down and hold to get into the menu. Normal NarsilM is usually 8 secs, but I think NarsilM on the MT09R you hold down for 20 or so seconds?

Anyway, after that it should be the same menu settings and procedure.

https://youtu.be/zdMU-YB_r9Y

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

ZozzV6
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Aaand it already died Crying
I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died.
So don’t bypass your springs with wires!

JasonWW
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Aaand it already died Crying
I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died.
So don’t bypass your springs with wires!

I guess now you can show us pictures of the driver.

Did they use the same FET TA used? If so, I wonder what happened.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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@ZozzV6, that should on not have happened. Texas Ace has done plenty of bypasses on XHP70.2 lights, and none have suffered from this fate.

I suspect the problem comes from the driver and not the LEDs.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Aaand it already died Crying I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died. So don’t bypass your springs with wires!

Oh god no! Tired
I was actually preparing to do this for when my light arrived.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Aaand it already died Crying
I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died.
So don’t bypass your springs with wires!

perhaps the FET is only bad soldered.
freeme
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Any burnt smell?

ZozzV6
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Yes it has burnt smell. I made a video of the behaviour.
And opeled it up. The fet burned. I don’t know but the driver has two places for fet. Does haikelite cut corners and used one instead of two? TA designed it to use two because the high current or not?


I think it was also melted the solder and raised by the pressure when the magic smoke came out.

I did not find any datasheet of this manufacturer by googleing the markings.

Texas_Ace
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Aaand it already died Crying I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died. So don’t bypass your springs with wires!

Hmmm, that is not good.

It does indeed sound like the first channel is still working but the main FET is not.

I know they said they could not get the SIR800 FET I speced for the driver in China (and used for the ~100 lights I built with high CRI LED’s that pull WAY more current then the LED’s they use).

I am thinking that instead of ordering the more expensive SIR800 from mouser / Digikey / Arrow like I suggested they changed the FET to another model.

Please do let us know what FET they are using now.

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TA: I was faster Big Smile
Look up

Texas_Ace
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Yes it has burnt smell. I made a video of the behaviour.
And opeled it up. The fet burned. I don’t know but the driver has two places for fet. Does haikelite cut corners and used one instead of two? TA designed it to use two because the high current or not?


I think it was also melted the solder and raised by the pressure when the magic smoke came out.

I did not find any datasheet of this manufacturer by googleing the markings.
!{width:60%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2597...!

That is even more strange, the R800 is the same as the ones I have but the rest of the markings are different and the font / layout is completely different from the SIR800’s I have.

Lexel showed another FET with the R800 marking that was rated much lower, I wounder if they used that thinking it was the same thing instead of the full model number I sent them. I sent them the parts to build 100 drivers with the proper components as well.

The high CRI 4000k LED’s I used in most of the lights I built generally pull around ~25-30% more current then the stock LED’s and they were bypassed springs as well.

So I know that the proper SIR800 can handle the stock LED’s no problem seeing as I have not heard of an issue or failure of any of the ~100 lights I built.

Thus this must be another FET.

Texas_Ace
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The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.

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