BLF Special Light by Sofirn Named SP70

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Yokiamy
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I like the L6 style as well, and this project has my interest.
A lighted sideswitch would be nice, tailswitch + mechanical lockout
Xhp70.2 2× 26650 at about 7-8 Amps and styling should be classy

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

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sb56637 wrote:
sb56637 wrote:
I would definitely be in for a true budget thrower, somewhere in the price range of the K70:
  • 5000+ burst lumens
  • 1000m+ throw
  • 26650 compatible with 18650 adapters (could just be some simple silicon rings)

I would also appreciate a hidden strobe mode.

One of the more popular throwers around here (but somewhat disappointing to some owners) is the Astrolux MF02. It does look very attractive, and has a nice claimed throw of 1500m. I also really like that it’s available in NW, which I suspect is practically a requirement for a lot of BLF buyers.

I also really like the idea that some have suggested for a mechanical tail lockout switch with a lighted side e-switch. But if this raises the price too much I’d prefer just a mechanical tail switch.

Just throwing some ideas out there. But I’m excited about this project. Apart from the obvious GT elephant in the room, we don’t have any BLF special edition throwers for semi-normal people. Wink

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KawiBoy1428
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sb56637 wrote:
sb56637 wrote:
sb56637 wrote:
I would definitely be in for a true budget thrower, somewhere in the price range of the K70:
  • 5000+ burst lumens
  • 1000m+ throw
  • 26650 compatible with 18650 adapters (could just be some simple silicon rings)

I would also appreciate a hidden strobe mode.

One of the more popular (but somewhat disappointing to some owners) designs around here is the Astrolux MF02. It does look very attractive, and has a nice claimed throw of 1500m. I also really like that it’s available in NW, which I suspect is practically a requirement for a lot of BLF buyers.

Thumbs Up Only if it truly is NW Neutral White not NW Neutral Warm Yellow/Orange/Rosy Wink

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Why not dual switch? How many BLF members have a light that functions off both switches? You can choose to use the tail cap or not and it still functions as a lock out. I have several LD-2 driven lights and find that it suits both uses more than having just a side switch. Specially if it is bezel down and you need it quick, quite intuitive.

I’m not understanding you.

The SP70 does plan to have dual switches.

Are you refering to the UI?

I believe Sofirn wants one UI to use in multiple lights. Some which don’t have tail switches.

Maybe you are wanting a “power on” function when the batteries are connected. I have this feature on my Texas_Ace L6 driver. It goes turbo on power on, but it’s a bit annoying at times. Sofirn might be able to do it, but on a light with no tail switch it will go turbo every time you recharge the battery and put it back in. It might annoy some people. It’s possible it can be added to just this SP70 model and removed on other models. All major functions will still get controlled by the side switch.

Assuming they can do it, would anyone else like turbo to activate when the rear switch is first turned on?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

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JasonWW wrote:
Assuming they can do it, would anyone else like turbo to activate when the rear switch is first turned on?

you are in the dark and every time when you want to turn on the light need to be blinded by the turbo first with 5000+ lumens? No way!
I even hated that the 500 lumens Thorfire TG06S always turned on in high.
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ZozzV6 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Assuming they can do it, would anyone else like turbo to activate when the rear switch is first turned on?

you are in the dark and every time when you want to turn on the light need to be blinded by the turbo first with 5000+ lumens? No way!
I even hated that the 500 lumens Thorfire TG06S always turned on in high.

That’s not exactly the situation. You have the option of leaving the rear switch on when you might be needing the light. Then you can turn it on with the side switch. Either to the memorized level or do a press and hold for moonlight. I pretty much only use the “big dog” for when I need turbo or 80% of turbo.

Surely this will not be your one and only light for everyday use. It would be better to have a smaller light around for when you need “lesser” output.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ZozzV6
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Yes but when you rarely use this light you don’t leave it with switched on tailcap so every tim you need to go through the big blast. I know it is not my opinion but the people and Sofirn ideas matter. Just told I don’t like it Wink

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Yes the UI. The LD-2 driver has dual switch function, so you leave the tail cap at what ever level you prefer, say LOW, now cycle thru the e-switch modes, it has momentary OFF at the e-switch. When you lock out the tail cap, it remembers the last mode you left it at. Dual functioning capable switches.

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teacher
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:

(snip)
Thumbs Up Only if it truly is NW Neutral White not NW Neutral Warm Yellow/Orange/Rosy Wink
+ 1,000,000 Thumbs Up

TRUE NEUTRAL WHITE. Not tinted.

And if it must lean… it needs to lean to the cooler side of NW.

Personally, I am tired of a ‘Urine Tint’ of ugly Yellow/Orange being called NW.
It is not….. simple as that.

Not a fan of harsh cold blue tint either.

And after rethinking, instead of being neutral about a tail switch; it would be good to have one as described.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Yourrid
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yes the UI. The LD-2 driver has dual switch function, so you leave the tail cap at what ever level you prefer, say LOW, now cycle thru the e-switch modes, it has momentary OFF at the e-switch. When you lock out the tail cap, it remembers the last mode you left it at. Dual functioning capable switches.

Seems like a lot of work for a niche market that wants their light to always go to a predetermined mode. Keeping the tail switch as a mechanical lockout and giving the driver mode memory would do the same thing right? As long as you turn it off on low and want it to come back on in low?

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As an avid boater, I could do without strobe, but would like/need a hiden beacon (3 and 6 second), and an SOS.

KawiBoy1428
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Yourrid wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yes the UI. The LD-2 driver has dual switch function, so you leave the tail cap at what ever level you prefer, say LOW, now cycle thru the e-switch modes, it has momentary OFF at the e-switch. When you lock out the tail cap, it remembers the last mode you left it at. Dual functioning capable switches.

Seems like a lot of work for a niche market that wants their light to always go to a predetermined mode. Keeping the tail switch as a mechanical lockout and giving the driver mode memory would do the same thing right? As long as you turn it off on low and want it to come back on in low?


How many fully functioning dual switch lights are out there? Zero? Personally I don’t care which way Sofrin go’s, I’m just putting it out there.

I already have several that I built and with lighted tail cap and or switch. It would be cool to be able to select or program the light with Narsil at the e-switch only or program for selected levels at both switches. I just think it’s cool and so do most people I show my lights too, and I don’t know of any manufacture out there that has a fully functional dual capable switch light, but I would buy one if you know of one….

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Yourrid
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KawiBoy, I totally understand man. It would definitely give driver modes an entirely new depth of group modes and programing.

My apologies if my comment came off as dismissive. I just learned about NarsilM, electronic side switches, and the ability to NOT have a tailcap switch… and you’re over here living in the year 2059 waaaay ahead of me LOL hahahah!

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Yourrid wrote:
KawiBoy, I totally understand man. It would definitely give driver modes an entirely new depth of group modes and programing.

My apologies if my comment came off as dismissive. I just learned about NarsilM, electronic side switches, and the ability to NOT have a tailcap switch… and you’re over here living in the year 2059 waaaay ahead of me LOL hahahah!


Nah no apology necessary, I didn’t take it that way at all…like I said just putting it out there….WE COOL! Thumbs Up I would Love to see TK take it on and work her Magic! Love

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RobertB wrote:
As an avid boater, I could do without strobe, but would like/need a hidden beacon (3 and 6 second), and an SOS.

I think ramping takes up a lot of the storage space and that’s why it only has one other mode group.

So with storage space at a premium extra things have to be carefully examined. If we get rid of the strobes, it might free up enough space for something like a battery indicator. That would be something everyone can use compared to a beacon or SOS mode which hardly anyone will use. Know what I mean? It will be noted, though. Who knows, maybe they can incorporate more than I realise.

Mainly I’m hoping Sofirn can get the 2 mode groups from post 72 sorted out and polished. That is a lot of work and there are a lot of details to sort out.

BTW, I have heard that boaters say the GT is a good light to have. The extreme range and NW tint can really cut through the fog, etc… It has strobes and beacon, but no SOS.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

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SKV89
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FlashTom wrote:

It would be great if there were interchangeable flashlight heads for individual illumination needs:

  • one deep SMO reflector with XHP70.2 (comparable to the Convoy L6)
  • a triple SMO reflector with 3x XHP35 Hi (comparable to the C8F but bigger)
  • a flood optic array of carclo lenses like the Meteor M43 uses, e.g. 3× 10507 Carclo lenses each with 3 XP-L2 or LH351D emitter

So, in the end one could choose of three different flashlights with only one battery tube needed. Development costs might be a bit lower if all versions use the same battery tube. Constant output is something a lot of flash’oholics would appreciate, i.e. a very efficient boost driver or buck driver would be great even though costs may rise a bit. Moreover, ramping as e.g. in NarsilM will be a great advantage over fixed modes.

I like these ideas because it needs something to differentiate from the already popular L6. But I think I want to see 3x XHP70.2 or XHP50.2 along with the 3x XHP35 HI. Always on illuminated switch that is protected by LVP would be very nice. That way we won’t kill the batteries. I think I read Anduril has LVP for led switches. I hope we get Anduril or Narsil but Sofirn makes some of the best non BLF UIs out there so I’m fine if they use their own UI. The only think I don’t like about C8F is the hold to turn off. I do hope we get side and rear switch with tail stand ability. USB recharge would be nice and makes great gifts for non flashaholics.

BTW, I just measured my Sofirn C8F with my TA lumen sphere and got these numbers w/ fresh VTC5D cell:
3,490 startup lumens
3,250 30s ANSI lumens

Considering Sofirn rates their turbo at 2,580 lumens, this is just amazing. It’s the first time I see a manufacturer under rate their lumen output this much! Also TA lumen sphere with Maukka calibration gives accurate lumen readings that are lower than most DIY lumen spheres. So I am excited to see a supersized C8F coming.

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Considering, what thoughts are shared recently, I would vote for some details as below (and would suggest name alternatives as well):

- Factory emitter dedome would be awesome (add a T letter suffix to the name, if the emitter is dedomed)
- If emitter is not dedomed, I'd prefer these tints: 80CRI 4500K/5000K or 90CRI 4500K/5000K/5700K
- If dedomed, original tint of the emitter may change (it is a guess, not experience, would need some backup), so probably a cooler white emitter would be better then

Edit: factory dedome does not worth it.

SP70-70:
- single XHP70.2
- dual 26650 with 21700 adapters (I hope, this would be a great opportunity for using cells like Samsung 21700-40T)
- reflector diameter would be best in 87-100 mm range
- 12A max current on turbo, 8A as top level of ramping

SP70-50:
- same CCT and CRI, same battery configuration, same reflector as above, but single XHP50.2 instead
- as I remember, if properly heatsinked, that emitter would be capable of fairly high candelas especially, if dedomed
- proportionally, a little bit harder driven, 9A max current on turbo, 6A as top level of ramping
- less output, but more runtime for the same candela numbers

SP70-35F:
- same CCT and CRI, same battery configuration
- this could be the one, which Sofirn has mentioned with multiple XHP35 HD emitter
- this would need a shorter, but larger diameter head design to keep the reflectors for each emitters as separate, as possible


JasonWW wrote:
This is what I have suggested:

2 mode groups (only 2 groups is their idea. They might be limited in storage space for coding).

Group 1: 5 brightness levels.
Single click to turn on/off, press and hold to choose mode low-med-high-low-med-high cycle.
Moonlight and turbo hidden. Turbo is a dbl clk. Moon is press and hold for 1 second from off.

To switch mode groups, something like 6 fast clicks or press and hold for 3 to 5 seconds from off. Something a bit unusual so you don’t accidentally switch groups, but easy enough to remember.

Group 2: Ramping.
Click to turn on/off, press and hold for ramping. Changes direction similar to Narsil. Dbl clk to turbo. Moon is press and hold for 1 second from off then click to turn off.

Does the above sound okay?

I don’t know if strobes are necessary since they are not on the C8F. They can probably be added and activated with a triple click. (I never use strobes)

Is there a need for electronic lock out or is mechanical lockout prefered? (I always go for mechanical)

It’s important to get a good UI into place as they may use this on other future lights.


I think, your thoughts about the UI are much preferable.

I would just add these:
- in Group 1, after activating strobe, press and hold could loop additional special modes (1 change per completed 1 second while holding the press, just like changing normal output levels), as someone here voted for additional special modes - I think, that would not be a bad idea, if they are hidden enough
(fast strobe /10Hz or 18Hz/ would be the entry point, followed by SOS signal, 0.5Hz (once per 2s) beacon and 0.2Hz (once per 5s) beacon)
- I'd chose triple click in Group 2 to enter to/exit from momentary on/off mode with the last used output setting. That would be sort of awesome, I think Wink
Edit: Yes, probably blinky modes won't be used too frequently (I accept Sofirn's opinion on this). A momentary on/off could be still handy, though.

Regarding switches, I would choose single side switch or dual side switch. Please, no tail switch for me.

ZozzV6 wrote:
Edit: Just saw in OP that you want to keep the tail switch and use a 9A switch. But if you leave the switch out then no need to worry and make the light drain 12A from batteries. And it is more simple and cheaper.put the switch parts price in a more better driver.


Very much agreed.


P.S.: For the current flashlight development, please ignore a few of my previous posts in this thread, as they were meant for another model, which I would happy to see manufactured by Sofirn.
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adam7027 wrote:


I think, your thoughts about the UI are much preferable.

I would just add these:
- I’d prefer mode group selecting as 6 fast clicks, long click in Group 2 might result unintended mode group setting change

There is no chance of that because the light has to be in the off position.
adam7027 wrote:


- in Group 1, after activating strobe, press and hold could loop additional special modes (1 change per completed 1 second while holding the press, just like changing normal output levels), as someone here voted for additional special modes – I think, that would not be a bad idea, if they are hidden enough
(fast strobe /10Hz or 18Hz/ would be the entry point, followed by SOS signal, 0.5Hz (once per 2s) beacon and 0.2Hz (once per 5s) beacon)
- I’d chose triple click in Group 2 to enter to/exit from momentary on/off mode with the last used output setting. That would be sort of awesome, I think Wink


We will have to see if Sofirn has room for any extra blinky modes which can be put off to the side and hidden. At this point, it’s a matter of getting the basics right. After that, maybe things can be added.

It is a bit early to be discussing the monster versions. There will probably be a whole new thread for those variations.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

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JasonWW wrote:

(snip)

So with storage space at a premium extra things have to be carefully examined. If we get rid of the strobes, it might free up enough space for something like a battery indicator. That would be something everyone can use compared to a beacon or SOS mode which hardly anyone will use. Know what I mean?

(snip)

Yep… I know exactly what you mean. And totally agree too… Wink

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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As a fisherman i don’t actually think tints plays a big part in fog? I know we all have our own views on this but for me a NW tint doesn’t help. My house is rarely foggy but we do get heaps of sea spray and mist and that is a pain to get thru. I think the cold white tints do create more glare in fog but still work just as good as a NW tint. Even at my girlfriends parents place on the lake its always got heavy fog but i still get better throw from a cold white tint.
I have noticed heaps of people live inland on BLF and use there lights in different situations to me which could cause different results. I only use my lights around water/coastal areas.

Thanks for the feedback Jason on your light maybe we can highlight the information so people can reference it for throw numbers.

I personally don’t need 1km of throw in this light i would prefer a more linear beam with good width. Id be happy with the stock reflector size in the SMO variant. People now have heaps of options of XHP70 throwers on the market that they can buy right now so throw isn’t much of an issue.

I dont think we will get any where near 270KCD (1km throw) unless the dome is sliced and the light is running DD.

As for the SP70 itself

  • Custom driver maybe 9+amps or DD ( No amperage numbers indicated as of yet)
  • Two 26650 in series
  • 90mm head diameter
  • SMO reflector
  • Dual switches rear clicky and side switch
  • XHP70.2
  • Multi mode UI with ramping and a second group set with standard modes (e.g low, medium, high)

I think Sofirn is in charge of this thread? But are we going to use the numbers from the K70 build as people in or start a new group buy?

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Coolcool

Help others, be happy myself.

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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
As a fisherman i don’t actually think tints plays a big part in fog? I know we all have our own views on this but for me a NW tint doesn’t help. My house is rarely foggy but we do get heaps of sea spray and mist and that is a pain to get thru. I think the cold white tints do create more glare in fog but still work just as good as a NW tint. Even at my girlfriends parents place on the lake its always got heavy fog but i still get better throw from a cold white tint.
I have noticed heaps of people live inland on BLF and use there lights in different situations to me which could cause different results. I only use my lights around water/coastal areas.

Thanks for the feedback Jason on your light maybe we can highlight the information so people can reference it for throw numbers.

I personally don’t need 1km of throw in this light i would prefer a more linear beam with good width. Id be happy with the stock reflector size in the SMO variant. People now have heaps of options of XHP70 throwers on the market that they can buy right now so throw isn’t much of an issue.

I dont think we will get any where near 270KCD (1km throw) unless the dome is sliced and the light is running DD.

As for the SP70 itself

  • Custom driver maybe 9+amps or DD ( No amperage numbers indicated as of yet)
  • Two 26650 in series
  • 90mm head diameter
  • SMO reflector
  • Dual switches rear clicky and side switch
  • XHP70.2
  • Multi mode UI with ramping and a second group set with standard modes (e.g low, medium, high)

I think Sofirn is in charge of this thread? But are we going to use the numbers from the K70 build as people in or start a new group buy?


I don’t have any experience with fog. It’s only what I’ve heard. Maybe it’s just a rumor.

Surely the long range is crucial for spotting other boats and land marks, though. I’m no boater, obviously.

When the time is right, I’m sure a new thread will be started for any group buy. Assuming they do one. They may just give BLF members a discount code. I really dont know. I don’t remember any group buys done by Sofirn.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

JasonWW
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Just an update, it seems Sofirn has decided to not do any blinky modes on the new UI. It seems it’s not a high demand feature.

On the other hand, they are working on a cool battery level indicator feature. There will be colored leds under the side switch cover.

Quote:
Green light means enough power, orange means middle, red means short of power, flashing red means need to recharge batteries.

What’s really cool is the led indicator will also function as a locator to find the light and switch in the dark. Very neat!

When you turn on the main led, the switch leds will stay on for 10 seconds to show battery status, then turn off.

The switch led indicator stays lit when the main led is off, but the tail switch is on. This will make it easy to find in the dark.

The switch led indicator will go off when tail switch power is cut off, obviously.

I have no idea what the parasitic drain might be, but that will be sorted later on. It is influenced by many things that have not been decided on yet. Hopefully you guys like the direction things are going.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

Satan@103TFS
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That cool Thumbs Up

JasonWW wrote:
Just an update, it seems Sofirn has decided to not do any blinky modes on the new UI. It seems it’s not a high demand feature.

On the other hand, they are working on a cool battery level indicator feature. There will be colored leds under the side switch cover.

Quote:
Green light means enough power, orange means middle, red means short of power, flashing red means need to recharge batteries.

What’s really cool is the led indicator will also function as a locator to find the light and switch in the dark. Very neat!

When you turn on the main led, the switch leds will stay on for 10 seconds to show battery status, then turn off.

The switch led indicator stays lit when the main led is off, but the tail switch is on. This will make it easy to find in the dark.

The switch led indicator will go off when tail switch power is cut off, obviously.

I have no idea what the parasitic drain might be, but that will be sorted later on. It is influenced by many things that have not been decided on yet. Hopefully you guys like the direction things are going.

And I vote for factory dedome to gain some (may be double) throw without excessive large head which not only impractical but also costly for most.
ZozzV6
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Location: Near to my soldering iron.

Factory dedoming will rise costs and time per light to make. I think if somebody going for it, can make themself.

hIKARInoob
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JasonWW wrote:
Just an update, it seems Sofirn has decided to not do any blinky modes on the new UI. It seems it’s not a high demand feature.

On the other hand, they are working on a cool battery level indicator feature. There will be colored leds under the side switch cover.

Quote:
Green light means enough power, orange means middle, red means short of power, flashing red means need to recharge batteries.

What’s really cool is the led indicator will also function as a locator to find the light and switch in the dark. Very neat!

When you turn on the main led, the switch leds will stay on for 10 seconds to show battery status, then turn off.

The switch led indicator stays lit when the main led is off, but the tail switch is on. This will make it easy to find in the dark.

The switch led indicator will go off when tail switch power is cut off, obviously.

I have no idea what the parasitic drain might be, but that will be sorted later on. It is influenced by many things that have not been decided on yet. Hopefully you guys like the direction things are going.

Super awesome! Thumbs UpBig Smile

aors10
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Location: Russia

I prefer 2 × 26650 and 3 x XHP 70,2 10000 lumen

teacher
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Satan@103TFS wrote:

(snip) And I vote for factory dedome to gain some (may be double) throw without excessive large head which not only impractical but also costly for most.

ZozzV6 wrote:
Factory dedoming will rise costs and time per light to make. I think if somebody going for it, can make themself.
I totally agree, dedoming should be a mod done by each individual if they want it.

Also, it cannot be automatically assumed that Sofirn (or anyone else) can or could dedome properly.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Dioda
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

As for the SP70 itself

  • Custom driver maybe 9+amps or DD ( No amperage numbers indicated as of yet)
  • Two 26650 in series
  • 90mm head diameter
  • SMO reflector
  • Dual switches rear clicky and side switch
  • XHP70.2
  • Multi mode UI with ramping and a second group set with standard modes (e.g low, medium, high)

Sounds like this would be a great light, a heavy duty thrower. Whatever comes out of this, I would prefer either single XHP70.2 light or 4-5x XHP35 HI light. Definitely not another boring XHP70.2. triple flooder.

As for design, here are my two cents:

  • Deeper steel bezel for reflector protection
  • Proper LANYARD HOLE, dont you dare to cheat us lanyard lovers.
teacher
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Thanks for the update Jason, it’s sounding good!! Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

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